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SS SUPER E carb

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dangerdan

Junior Member
Where do I start.

I got this site thru the help section so there should not be any copy right problems.

http://www.sscycle.com/modules/instruction/uploads/51-1012.pdf

Got new spark plugs (HD)
Got new spark plug wires. (HD)
Got new VOES (HD)
Made up 2 Lollipop baffles. (LEFT and RIGHT side)
Jetting not checked as it ran fine b4 I bought it.
Checked for leaks with 10w40 when running ( NO RPM INCREASE)
Replaced a split crankcase breather hose
Took carb apart and blew out all holes with compressed air.
Verified float level heigth is correct
Checked all diaphrams for cracks. (FOUND NONE)
Hooked up a vacuum gauge (NO LEAKS WHEN RUNNING)

Bike runs great once its warmed up. No Black smoke at idle which was my original problem. It still backfire at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle in idle but I think thats normal . I will have to road test it when new clutch cable is installed.

When its cold , I pull the fast idle lever upward and give the throttle 3 quick crank on the throttle. As the bike warms up , engine RPM will slowly go up to 2500 RPM.

At that point I push down the fast idle lever just a bit and the engine starts to sputter and die. If I try to pull lever back up it still dies.

The carb SS E Model is adjusted as per below

1) IDLE mixture screw is now 1 1/2 turns out. SEE Picture 15

2) IDLE speed adjusting screw is now as per next sentence. Turn screw counterclockwise until it no longer contacts throttle linkage spool. Next turn screw clockwise until it just contacts spool. Then turn additional 1/2 turn clockwise to slightly open throttle plate. I have made no further adjustment . See Picture 16.

3) The pump travel adjusting screw is just contacting the pump actuator arm. This limits actuator arm travel and shuts off pump. Pump travel screw regulates volume of fuel delivered by accelerator pump. I have turned screw counter clockwise 1/2 turn to allow accelerator pump to work. See Picture 48

I have read all the sites on the net I could find including the Self help Information And Tips located here.
One site states that when starting the bike cold , pull the fast idle lever up all the way , twist the throttle a few times and when the bike starts , push the fast idle lever back down..

My question is 3 part

1 - Does the fast idle lever stay up during the warmup process or is it pushed down as soon as the bike runs ??

2 - At what point do I adjust the IDLE speed adjusting screw for the correct RPM

3 - Does the IDLE mixture screw have to be re-adjusted whenever the IDLE speed adjusting screw is adjusted
 
Dan, not sure what all this means but the lever usually will operate the choke as well as fast idle. If you turn it off, you are removing the extra warm up fuel and it will usually stall if it isn't warmed up.

Always adjust the carb at full operating temps and do the mixture at a normal idle not elevated. The idle speed is done last after the mixture is done.Usually once the mixture is set, you can vary the idle speed a bit without a problem.

As far as the popping, that is usually jetting not correct in the circuits, they shouldn't pop.

Another thing is the idle mixture is not a pre determined setting, you adjust it to the highest and smoothest idle and then I usually turn it in a TINY amount to the lean side.

To check for an intake leak 10/40 oil is a poor choice, should use WD 40.

A vacuum gauge will usually not show you a leak, it will only measure vacuum. In some cases the needle will bounce indicating a leak in a bigger motor (4-6 & 8 cylinders) but in a V Twin, isn't the best choice for diagnostics.
 
Sorry but I meant WD 40".

The vacuum gauge only helps to determine how smooth the engine runs. Less deflection means a smoother running engine.

I just cannot get this to engine to run consistenly on a day to day basis.

Once she cools down I will remove the the carb and tear it down and inpsect it more closely.

Any suggestion for jetting size.

Thanks
 
Can't offer any suggestions on that carb, sounds like it needs more fuel, try one size larger on the low jet. I prefer the CV, hard to beat.

Betting your problem is the carb here.
 
Help me out a little here.What model bike?Any modifications,pipes,cams,stroker/bigbore?I can help you a bit but you'll need to help me first.
 
Fisher its a 1995 flhtc with a stock 80 CI engine and twin fish tail exhaust and 1 3/4 inch header pipes (OD). Thats all I know...
The baffles (2) were removed before I bought the bike. It belonged to my brother inlaw.. It always ran fine when ever we went cruising.
It ran very rich after I bought it and it was suggested that I install some baffles. Price ran from $300 to $150..There were some $20 baffles but they dont make them anymore.

I went the cheap route and mounted a 1 inch washer an a bolt 2 inches from the end of the header pipes and dead centre in the pipe. The washer is 90 degrees to the exhaust wall for maximum back pressure.

There are no other modifications that I know of.
Spark plugs gapped for .040 (HD), spark plug wires (HD) and VOES (HD) were replaced last week. The ignition coil passed the resistance test as per the HD manual (2.5 ohms Primary & 11k Secondary) . I also installed a brand new Oddessy battery. The gas tank was totally drained and flushed with fresh gas. Gas goes directly from tank to carb. The vacuum operated fuel valve has been bypassed and the vacuum hose has a vacuum gage plugged into it. The throttle cables were replaced and greased. They are not tight as throttle hand grip has about 1/16 inch free play.

The fuel tank gauge, tank overflow and vapour hose are not connected.
The SS air filter is a sponge type material that was cleaned in gas and left to dry, It does not require any oil.

I hope this helps
 
OK for starters I'd try a 28 intermediate,screw at 1 1/2 turns and a 68 main.turn the pump screw in until it stops the pump from working.We'll turn it back on after tuning.Start the bike and push the "choke" lever in until the idle slows.If needed adjust the idle screw with the "choke"lever all the way down.It should idle without it soon after starting.Once the bike's warm we'll adjust the mixture screw (on top of the carb) in slowly until the bike begins to run rough.Then we do the same thing out 1/4 turn at a time until it runs rough again.Count the turns in between the two extremes.When done set the screw in the middle of the extremes.i.e. if you turn in and then turn out 1 full turn turn it back in 1/2 turn.Then if needed reset the idle speed.Try to do this quickly before the bike gets very hot but after it warms up.If you need to use a fan to moderate engine temps but that shouldn't be necessary.The instructions were written when fuel was very different than it is now.So the numbers will vary.Lemme know how it goes and post up the results.If there's any problems we'll go from there.
 
Fisher
Just for the heck of it , I followed your instructions except for installing the 28intermediate and 68 main. Definatley ran better on cold start and did not stall.( Tried 2x during 4hr interval )

Will try again in the morning.
Will also pick up some spare plugs to verify if still running rich and those jets at the HD dealer. Its going to be at least a week or 2 before I get it all together. My other half is jealous, she wants me to spend more time with her.

The accellerator pump I will adjust later.
 
When you were done with the mixture screw where is the position?Less than 3/4 turn from lightly seated means the intermediate jet is too big.More than 2.5 turns means it's too small.
 
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