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Something just isnt right.....'03 RKC

I would warm it up to the point where it is noticeable, then check with a stethoscope to try and localize it.
If it is top end that should be easy to nail down. Likewise lifters.
If its a tapping or knocking I doubt it is tensioner related.
It may also be loose exhaust flange nuts causing escaping exhaust. They have a habit of loosening on the TC engines.

Rod
 
Thanks all for the replies. I got called out for work, so it wont be until Saturday to make a move. The replies gives me something to study up during my down time this week.

If its major.......im feelin a new ride in my future. Of course it will be for Momma's comfort only.:55:

I'll keep everyone posted Saturday. First stop, most likely, trailering it to my dealer for review.

Ya'll have a great week
 
Getting stethoscope and mirror today, popping the cap in the morning. I checked out the various kits I can go with....BUT. I cant jump in to 1500-2k right now. IF this is indeed the problem. A kid in college or the scooter......the kid wins.

IF the tensioners are shot and its not catostrophic, can i get the stock tensioners and replace or do I need to take the plunge?
 
Unless you pop the heads, you will have to cut the pushrods to get the cam plate off, to access the inner tensioner. You can see the inner one with a small flashlight and dental mirror, but you can't change it without pulling out the cam plate and cams. As long as you have gone that far, you would be best served to replace those dastardly inner cam bearings.

For me, I would pop the cam chest, and inspect tensioners. They could be fine. Then, I would put a real, mechanic's oil pressure guage on and verify good pressure, at hot temps. No good throwing money at the problem, hoping to hit something. Just know that the oil pump relief valve could be intermittently sticking (cam plate problem). It coudl actually be a failure of the inner cam bearings. It is all a roll of the dice. Pick a direction and follow though.

If I had the green, and the time, I would go whole hog in there and go hydraulic tensioners or gear drive (even better), replace the lifters and inner cam bearings with Torringtons, add an upgraded oil pump, and be done with it. Since no green, spend nothing that is not needed right now, which requires mostly time and great care.

Yes, you can simply replace the tensioners, with what was in there, but you will have to do alot of the work required to upgrade stuff. It makes no sense to me to go that far, only to have to repeat down the road, and maybe soon, since no one really knows why the original tensioners go great then quit on you (maybe the cam chain condition). That being the case, you could eat new tensioners quite soon.

Don't ride or run it until you determine it is safe. You could toast your engine, even seize it (Danger Will Robinson!).

Good luck,
Rich P
 
If it is the tensioners, then you may want to take a peek at this:

TQ's Engine Build

Harley Davidson Community

TQ

Getting stethoscope and mirror today, popping the cap in the morning. I checked out the various kits I can go with....BUT. I cant jump in to 1500-2k right now. IF this is indeed the problem. A kid in college or the scooter......the kid wins.

IF the tensioners are shot and its not catostrophic, can i get the stock tensioners and replace or do I need to take the plunge?

Read this again, T Q did a good write up here:s
 
Getting stethoscope and mirror today, popping the cap in the morning. I checked out the various kits I can go with....BUT. I cant jump in to 1500-2k right now. IF this is indeed the problem. A kid in college or the scooter......the kid wins.

IF the tensioners are shot and its not catostrophic, can i get the stock tensioners and replace or do I need to take the plunge?

You can replace the tensioners with the OEM tensioners but the CYCO tensioner would be a better replacment and would cost half as much.

You do not have to "pop the heads" as Ribeye suggested to pull the cam plate and replace the tensioners. You could cut the pushrods and replace with adjustables or you could remove the tank and the rocker covers, loosen the rocker support plate and pull the OEM pushrods from the top. An hour of additional labor verses $175 for a set of adjustable pushrods. If the OEM tensioners have never been checked or replaced; it's time to take a look. I would replace the inner cam bearings, as RibEye suggested, with Torrington B148s.

Maybe a long shot but you described the noise as "clattering" which sounds a lot like detonation to me. Has it been hotter than usual in your area? What fuel/grade do you normally run Is the noise constant or does it occur only when the engine is under load? With 32,500 miles, there could be enough carbon build up to cause some detonation. You mentioned stage I; pipes and air cleaner and EFI but did not mention a fuel management system. Has the bike been tuned since adding the pipes and A/F? I know, not likely that the noise is detonation and that would not be the first place to look but if investigation of the cam chest and primary does not produce the offenders, detonation would be on my list to check out. JMHO.
 
I did mention that unless you open the top end, you will have to cut the push-rods out.

Not having done it myself, I was not aware you could actually get the rocker boxes off, without removing the engine or the heads. On my old scooter, there was not enough clearance to get the rocker boxes off without removing the heads. If it is possible, I will file that away for future reference...

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
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