Softail Rear Brakes

Discussion in 'Wheels' started by Chilemike, Sep 19, 2010.

  1. Chilemike

    Chilemike Member

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    Just changed my rear brake pads and now I have quite a bit more travel in my foot pedal and I have to use more pressure to stop. I pumped the brakes up after the pad change. Also, when I pulled the outside pad the anti-rattle clip / spring snapped down, when I installed the new pad I pressed and felt the clip give some resistance as I installed the pins, I assume this is correct? The inside pad slipped in and I just held in place with no spring feel to it. Thanks
     
  2. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Mike, what is the condition of your rear rotor. Is it grooved. Did you use the same (OEM) pads as what you had on the bike? Did you at least break the glaze on the rotor to help with pad break in.
     
  3. Chilemike

    Chilemike Member

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    Rotor is a bit grooved, catch a fingernail. I used EBC pads and no I did not glaze the rotor. Only rode for about 30 miles, doing a few stops from 50 mph. No chattering or noise
     
  4. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Looks like you answered your own question.
     
  5. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Some after market pads are not made to high standards IMO and may not give the kind of stopping power you were used to, you may try cleaning the pistons and bleed the system and check the free travel of the brake lever:s
     
  6. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    The key here is excessive brake pedal travel implies air bubble is trapped in the brake line. Did you drain/purge all the old fluid out the master cylinder (I use an old turkey baster) to remove most of the fluid in the M/C reservoir, then do the bleed to get the old stuff out, and check that you used the right DOT rated fluid?

    Remove the pads, lightly sand the surface and wash with clear water only, do the same to the rotor to give it a "brushed neutral random swirl look" using fine sandpaper in circular motion to roughen the polished swept surfaces. Inspect the pivot pin for grooving, if worn replace, otherwise use thin layer of high temp grease, reinstall pads and torque to spec.

    Finally, double your efforts to bleed the brakes to purge all air out of the system. Use a friend if necessary to press the pedal and timing closure of the bleeder valve just prior to bottoming. May have to do this several times to get stubborn air bubble out, as the hose may arch above the M/C level. Too long brake pedal travel is dangerous, and should not be allowed to continue as an emergency stop should be short and crisp.
     
  7. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Grab the hose and give it a few shakes this helps to remove air bubbles also
     
  8. Chilemike

    Chilemike Member

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    Thanks for all the replies and tips. I did read the DIY section before posting but I had a doubt about the clip position . Used DOT 5 on my 03. Had a time finding that in Chile....everything but, 3,4 5.1 no 5 had my step daughter in Santiago make a trip to the Harley shop and send it to me. Pins are in good shape, light coating of lube on them, did the installation right it looks like just not the prep work, thanks again!
     
  9. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    Good deal Chilemike...be careful, letting your step daughter...eh...step into the HD shop may be the start of good things to come from that little adventure, you may have a riding companion in the future if you get up Santiago way...!:D
     
  10. Chilemike

    Chilemike Member

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    Both she and my wife love to ride. Every time we head to Santiago for vacation I HAVE to give her a ride!!