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Soft Front Brake Pull

Post what brake fluid you use

  • DOT 5.1

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • DOT 5

    Votes: 59 57.8%
  • DOT 4

    Votes: 41 40.2%
  • DOT 3

    Votes: 2 2.0%

  • Total voters
    102
So DOT5.1 is compatible with Etylene-Glycol DOT 3 & 4 Fluids...where do you get it, is it color coded or by virtue it is not purple it is amber colored to imply it is "mixable". Do I take 5.1 implies that it has even higher boiling point than DOT4, but is not Silicone based like straight DOT5 "Purple"? When using DOT 4 I would use Castrol in the big bottle, as it was used on my truck & car, to flush all the systems every 3 years.

It should be available in most auto stores and yes it is compatible with 3 & 4. Couldn't tell you about the reason for the color of the fluid.
 
As brake fluid absorbs moisture and it will u will get a spongy or soft feal to the brakes dot 5 will crystalize over time and cause problems probably the main reacon H D uses dot 4 now Brake fluid goes not last forever it is one of the most over looked fluids If your brake fluid is dark in color that would be the rubber parts in the system braking down. In the auto industry we use test strips to verify copper content in the fluid .I also use a Shark sold by Mac tools to test for moisture content hope this helps
 
Dot 5 Silicone based fluid was developed in racing circles for it's higher temperature rating and it's "inert" properties that do not degrade seals and o-rings like ethylene glycol based fluid that intentionally swell slightly making them seal better and "feel" better.

Actually Dot 5 also deteriorates less rapidly, than EG based brake fluids, but being silicone based, it is a contaminant like teflon, so it does not dissolve or break down, and very difficult to clean off surfaces. That is why some primary vendors have banned the use of silicone based lubricant and adhesive products, even the EPA is concerned about it's long term environment effects as being unknown (likely much worse than long life plastics).
 
If you have a soft front brake pull, try putting a strap on the brake lever pulling it in tight, and let it sit over night then in the morning let the strap loose, pump up the brake and your brake should return to normal.
 
If you have a soft front brake pull, try putting a strap on the brake lever pulling it in tight, and let it sit over night then in the morning let the strap loose, pump up the brake and your brake should return to normal.

Cool Trick. Is it air that causes the soft brake feel? Somehow the overnight pressure causes the air to go to top? Just wondering what actually happens.
 
Cool Trick. Is it air that causes the soft brake feel? Somehow the overnight pressure causes the air to go to top? Just wondering what actually happens.
If you figure it out let me know, just one of those old indian tricks that works.
 
Actually Hoop figured it out, the air bubbles rise to the highest point, I go a bit farther by gently tapping to displace bubbles that might be stuck in tight turns within, from the caliper, brake hose, (if two, the one farthest from M/C first), crossover, tubing up to the banjo/master cylinder, with the brake lever bungee corded to grip, squeezing lever several times.

Repeat process in the morning, (if you have the m/c cover off you will see additional bubbles rise from the bottom port), THEN release the lever and pump gently several times in steadily firmer strokes and watch additional bubbles rise out. If you see no more bubbles you are done. Only wish the rear brake system could be done this way, but the m/c and caliper relationship is too level and has loops that trap air bubbles, resisting bleeding this way.
 
Actually Hoop figured it out, the air bubbles rise to the highest point, I go a bit farther by gently tapping to displace bubbles that might be stuck in tight turns within, from the caliper, brake hose, (if two, the one farthest from M/C first), crossover, tubing up to the banjo/master cylinder, with the brake lever bungee corded to grip, squeezing lever several times.

Repeat process in the morning, (if you have the m/c cover off you will see additional bubbles rise from the bottom port), THEN release the lever and pump gently several times in steadily firmer strokes and watch additional bubbles rise out. If you see no more bubbles you are done. Only wish the rear brake system could be done this way, but the m/c and caliper relationship is too level and has loops that trap air bubbles, resisting bleeding this way.

You can also grab the hoses and shake them, this works good to remove trapped air
 
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