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She knocks!

Without actualy seeing the bike run, all i can say is drain your gas tank and add highest octane fuel, if there is pre-detonation. another thing to do is locate the ignition modual and flip it to "advance position" with the toothpick in your swiss army knife...
 
So after a severed tendon in the right hand, surgery, PT, blown up truck, broke cell phone, stolen back pack, and I'm sure i'm missing something in that list but you get the point. I got back to me bike this morning and found one of the springs on the Hayden tensioner broken (pic attached). Before the string of luck, I had the comp nut trimmed .030: Put the stock tensioner back in, put it all back together and man what a difference! Now it knocks right at startup.... It doesn't even wait to get warm/hot. I tried it with the chain on the loose side 7/8" and tight side 5/8" and same result with no discernible difference.
 

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Man, if you didn't have bad luck you wouldn't have any luck at all.:eek:
I hope things turn around for you,
 
[QUOTE="Bodeen]So after a severed tendon in the right hand, surgery, PT, blown up truck, broke cell phone, stolen back pack, and I'm sure i'm missing something in that list but you get the point. I got back to me bike this morning and found one of the springs on the Hayden tensioner broken (pic attached). Before the string of luck, I had the comp nut trimmed .030: Put the stock tensioner back in, put it all back together and man what a difference! Now it knocks right at startup.... It doesn't even wait to get warm/hot. I tried it with the chain on the loose side 7/8" and tight side 5/8" and same result with no discernible difference.[/QUOTE]

Sorry to hear about your recent misfortune; things can only improve, right?;)

I wish you would post a video; we are flying blind at this point. I reviewed the previous posts and noted that you measured the Bellville spring pack to be .640" all around? .650 would indicate that the springs have lost some tension. What is the distance from the top of the spring pack to the top of the shell? Should be mas o menos .300". Is the spring pack still tight in the shell or can it be moved? What happens to the knock when the clutch is engaged; any change? With the primary cover off and the bike in gear, rotate the rear wheel in the direction of the tire rotation and watch the compensator, there should be very little rotational movement, just a few degrees.

I am still thinking compensator; 50K miles and a new 98" top end with probably more compression than stock?
 
Edit to my previous; when checking comp rotation, bike should be jacked up and trans in neutral; brain fart.:confused: You are watchin for rotation of comp on the crank, or "slack" for a better description before encountering resistance from the crank.
 
I'll try the rotation thing when I get the urge to take it back apart. I will try and post a vid of the knock as well. After sleeping on it, I'm leaning toward compensator as well since the only thing that was changed from before til now is .030" off the nut and the stock tensioner. It didnt knock until hot before that. The .030" off the nut is really the only thing that would cause a knock to change from only hot too all the time. Now, when I went to torque the comp nut. My manual says 150'-160'lbs. I know the in '03 the change was to 75'lbs and the 45deg. I tried the 75' lbs. and then the 45deg. I couldn't get there. So I went back too 150'lbs. and it still didnt reach the 45deg mark. I put it back together. Is my thinking sound, that if I couldn't get to the 45deg mark then the spring pack is completely collapsed? If so, maybe an ebay spring pack is order.......
 
My manual says 150'-160'lbs. I know the in '03 the change was to 75'lbs and the 45deg. I tried the 75' lbs. and then the 45deg. I couldn't get there. So I went back too 150'lbs. and it still didnt reach the 45deg mark. I put it back together. Is my thinking sound, that if I couldn't get to the 45deg mark then the spring pack is completely collapsed? If so, maybe an ebay spring pack is order.......

It could mean collapse but most can't get to the 45* mark; I never have. Keep us posted.;)
 
Just read all 5 pages of this thread and never got a solution...Good Lord that is a disappointment.
 
It is disappointing but I still want to hear the knock.

Bodeen, it really is bugging me that we can't find a solution for your problem. Has all this checking and re-checking been done in a static condition, IAW, in the garage on an uloaded motor and drive train? With all the attention being given to the comp and the measures you have taken, it may be time to start looking elsewhere. What happens when the motor is loaded, on the road? Does the knock change with clutch engaged vs not engaged? Loaded as in on throttle as opposed to cruise? Is the knock rythmic, as it would be if something were rotating but coming in contact with something on each revolution? Have you looked at the clutch pack; is it tight or can you detect any movement? I know the cam change etc. was done 10K miles back but it might be worth a re-look in the cam chest, rocker arms and rocker box for anything out of the ordinary.
 
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