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She knocks!

Did you pull the motor out of the frame when you did the motor work? If so check the front motor mount plate(triangular piece) to make sure it is under the front of the motor & not on top of the front 2 motor tabs.
If it is over the 2 tabs it causes the front of the primary to hit the frame and bounce, hence a knock.
tourbox
 
just curious if the primary tensioner (self adjusting) spring gets hot and loses its tension ? i remember my bike doing that noise in salt springs, when we got home i adjusted the chain and vewala no more knocking. just a thought , put the stock one back in and see instead of the new and improved model
 
Did you pull the motor out of the frame when you did the motor work? If so check the front motor mount plate(triangular piece) to make sure it is under the front of the motor & not on top of the front 2 motor tabs.
If it is over the 2 tabs it causes the front of the primary to hit the frame and bounce, hence a knock.
tourbox

Motor stayed in. Motor mount is not long for the world though. Not high on the list at this point, Thanks for the suggestion though,,

just curious if the primary tensioner (self adjusting) spring gets hot and loses its tension ? i remember my bike doing that noise in salt springs, when we got home i adjusted the chain and vewala no more knocking. just a thought , put the stock one back in and see instead of the new and improved model

Nah, Hayden spring is stout. Everything in the primary looks good.

I fired it up in the driveway this afternoon, took it for a rip around the hood. Brought it back put a fan on the motor and let it idle. About ten minutes of run time the knock appears. It very well may be a rear lifter.... My next step is to remove oil pressure sending unit and hooking up a gauge. Then repeat the process to see if Im losing oil pressure when hot.
 
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Hooked up an oil pressure gauge this evening. 20W60 Redline oil, S.E. camplate with an Axtell spring. Fires up and has 45 psi at idle and as it gets warmer its starts to drop gradually, Down to 30psi then 25psi then 20psi and right at about 16psi it sounds like a rear lifter starts clacking loud. Run the idle just barely up to get back to 20 psi and the noise is gone. Let it back to idle and down to about 16psi and she starts clacking again. So its oil pressure driven. This process took probably 15 to 20 minutes to get it hot enough to even start to make noise. Full operating hot temperature. Run the rpms up and it jumps up to 50 psi, noise gone. So, oil pressure issue or bad S&S standard lifter with less than 10k miles? My oil pressure gauge is a Chinese tool store model so actual pressure may not be spot on but I think its a pretty good trendicator.
I'll try a video and see if it comes through.....
 
Low oil pressure at hot idle is common for the T.C., so don't worry about your pump. There's been lots of posts here through the years about it. My '07 drops to 5 on the fairing gauge.
 
Oil pressure is not the issue; replace the offending lifter. I have seen similar posts with S&S standards that clack right out of the box; not so with the premiums.;) If not going for the more expensive lifters with tighter machining tolerances, the CompCams VThunder 850-1 lifters are a good baseline choice. If one of those makes noise, it only cost about $14 to replace. If one wants premium lifters, pay more and install S&S Premiums, Woods Directional or HQ Black Ops. Some put their faith in Johnson Hy-Lift, Gaterman and Fueling but those have had issues as well, just more expensive to replace.
 
I put the Comp Cams/VThunder 850-1 lifters in my 96 in. when I put the 48 cams in. They are quiet and affordable. The only difference I have read about is the hole in the plunger is a little smaller/larger than HD. I didn't measure them when out.
 
I put the Comp Cams/VThunder 850-1 lifters in my 96 in. when I put the 48 cams in. They are quiet and affordable. The only difference I have read about is the hole in the plunger is a little smaller/larger than HD. I didn't measure them when out.

It's a GM lifter; all made by Delphi, some still in the US. The hole in the piddle valve is smaller but don't know that it makes an difference even though the smaller hole does restrict flow a bit.
 

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Pulled the S&S's from the rear cylinder last night. Took each one apart and inspected them for trash or a stopped up check ball. No stoppage and no debris to speak of in either lifter. The very bottom of the lifters had some VERY fine dark-ish stuff but that's it. Had a set of Comp Cams lightly used, took those apart and checked for anything foreign and installed them. Rode to work this am and home, so far so good. Not out of the woods cause I didnt have a good heat soak. I probably need to readjust P/R's because the lifters were empty when I installed them. Zero lash is touchy when they aren't pumped up. We'll see....
 
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