security disarm

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by roadking24, Apr 8, 2010.

  1. roadking24

    roadking24 Member

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    Hello,my first time on site,,,my 2002 roadking,wont disarm ,tried to start bike,after it was running last week,,got the click click sound,,have charged and tested[load] battery,its fine,,when i try to disarm ,i get nothing,no flashs nothing,when i hit the left turn signal,,i have read alot on this site about ,clear,disarming etc,,,i get nothing when i hit horn,or starer button or signals,,,all lights are on and fuel pump works,,i have checked my grounds,,all fine ??
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2010
  2. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    When you say click click when trying to start, did you clean the battery terminals? Remove the neg first and install last.
     
  3. roadking24

    roadking24 Member

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    yes yes many times,cleaned and filed,i usually take neg terminal off first,,can i blow a relay if i dont? i didnt think so,,checked ALL fuses they are good,,maybe battery is giving false reading??? but i have strong lites and fuel pump?
     
  4. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Can't blow a relay but you can short out the wrench to the frame removing the pos cable first.

    Have the battery load tested.
     
  5. roadking24

    roadking24 Member

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    glider i have read many of your post on this matter,glad ur here to help,,if the tssm is dead will i get no responce to my controls,,,would the "wow" test work as i seem to remember you dont need to use your signal flasher for the speedo code numbers,,is that what you mean by PIN number?

    it was load tested to 300 amps and pasted with flying colors,,,
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 9, 2010
  6. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    Just curious, was the system working fine before? The alarm immobilizer works on button type fob (Security I system), not quite as you describe...you should not be getting that multiple clicking sound, (classic sign of weak battery...at least an HD sans the alarm system).

    You should not get a response when you push the start button, as the older type immobilizer does not even allow the starter to spin, just flashes the turn signals in a cyclic pattern, telling you to deactivate it, at least that is how it works on my 2004 Sportster...!
     
  7. roadking24

    roadking24 Member

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    Glider,,,glad ur around for help,,but did u read my first post it said i load tested it,,and i know about the spark of the wrench,,big deal,,i have been riding harleys for 30yrs now and i do know something ,so lets start over and stop treating me like a new rider,,ok

    thanks,,,but from the start i get no flashs of anything,,no power to any handlebar controls,early push fobs are not of importance at the stage im at,the system was fine 2 weeks ago and had been flawless for 8 yrs now,,first time for dead battery,also old but has a charge and holds it,,,if i had left signal button working the way it should i wont have a problem,,
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 8, 2010
  8. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Maybe it's because you stated "when I try to start bike I get Click Click Click". Then further down in your sentence you say, "I get nothing when I hit the starer button." To me Click Click Click is not nothing.

    Just trying to help.
     
  9. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    No, it is not my or others' intention to insult you by asking basic questions, it is just our way to understand conditions prior to the failure so we can help. We have all been in your position, experienced or not...working on a problem and a bit in denial that it has been a reliable ride before BUT now its' giving you grief...

    As most of you know, load testing the battery only says it "tests" okay for that "simulated" test setup and conditions. In actual practice on the bike, your battery is loaded with headlight, ignition system and auxilliary ckts 25A or so and then *BAM*, when you hit the start button (when working right and alarm off), the surface charge is drained off quickly by a 200-300A surge for 2-5 seconds due to starter motor being stalled and loaded against full engine compression, the battery having to maintain at least 10V to keep your ignition system and ECM alive to fire the engine during this time...or subsequent 4 second bursts after a brief wait (depending on rider patience). That is not the same as simple Battery Load Tester w/ simple heater/resistor element that draws a constant current, non inductive load.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2010
  10. roadking24

    roadking24 Member

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    to hopple and newhdfan,,yes you are right,i appoligize,,i am a bit frustrated i guess and sorry to you Glider,,i have my suspicion about the battery,,thats why i was asking,explanations from both of you were good for me,,think i will borrow a battery before i start tearing my girl apart,,thanks,