SE compensator

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

Thanks Hoop... Thanks for posting them

Quote from Steve:

This has been serviced at 1000 miles and has a total of 1461 on it at that point the oil has 461 that you see full of metal. We are seeing wear that is much like what we saw on the old style in the past. Not as aggressive but I do not feel that it is solved and we are working on a kit to provide more oil to the spokes on the new 1014 and up comp

I really think the "A" is my best way to go... No problems yet and Like I said, when down to install my SE clutch spring, NO visual rust. Looked very close but was Not going to take it apart.

I do use MTL by Redline and did groove it to suck in a drop or two of oil..:60:

I also use the Full amount of 40 oz... More MAY help... I have No problems keeping it that full.

signed....BUBBIE

Too much oil in the primary can create issues with the clutch not hooking up correctly. Also there has to be enough air volume in the primary for pressure expansion. Otherwise you will get oil puking out of the breather tube

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

This one of my earlier SE comps and what the fretting looks like. The lack of lubrication to the bore and sprocket/cam lobes causes this to happen

 

[BUBBIE]

Too much oil in the primary can create issues with the clutch not hooking up correctly. Also there has to be enough air volume in the primary for pressure expansion. Otherwise you will get oil puking out of the breather tube

I'm NOT recommending this for others JUST my bike... I do things Differently for me and They do WORK or I'd change... You're Preaching to the Choirs you know...:woot:

The Rust is a problem UNTIL oil gets into the comp.. No matter haw many holes in the unit Oil is needed...

Sure a lot of metal showing on the new style comp that was taken apart... No fix yet....

signed....BUBBIE

 

[dolt]

I haven't had the sprocket retainer (item # 9) in my hand so I am guessing this is how it works.

Looking at the sprocket retainer # 9, the opening hole on the hex end side gets wider the deeper you go toward the 6 oil holes. So the hole in the retainer starts out at maybe 1" but at the six oil holes it may be 1-5/16 inch.
The plastic tray that is attached to the outer primary cover will catch or fill with oil that the chain & clutch assembly is turning up. The tray has a corner with a lip that pours the oil directly into the opening of the sprocket retainer. Once the oil enters the opening of the sprocket retainer, centrifugal force flings the oil with an outward force. Since the opening of the sprocket retainer gets wider the deeper you go, the oil has no place to go except into the 6 small oil holes. Since the oil from the tray is being poured into the sprocket hole continuously, oil is being "pumped" through the 6 sprocket holes. The six oil holes feed through the sprocket retainer and feed the bearing area of # 6 which is the focal point of all the fret rust.

The entire key to the system is the hole in the retainer gets wider the deeper you go. That's what traps the oil and forces it into the 6 holes.

I don't fully understand the purpose of the Spinner (# 10) because it's only used on Springers. It seems it would defeat the entire purpose of the oiling system.(?)

Like I said, maybe I just don't appreciate the engineering.:newsmile057: I am not convinced that after thought parts that have to be glued into the inner primary represent the pinnacle of engineerng talent.:bigsmiley23:

 

[Mongo1958]

I'm NOT recommending this for others JUST my bike... I do things Differently for me and They do WORK or I'd change... You're Preaching to the Choirs you know...:woot:

The Rust is a problem UNTIL oil gets into the comp.. No matter haw many holes in the unit Oil is needed...

Sure a lot of metal showing on the new style comp that was taken apart... No fix yet....

signed....BUBBIE

Hey Bub, the day here in GA is wonderful. Low 40's and not a cloud in the sky. I had to ride around a bit to get my fix.
Anyway, Steve sent some pics to me but you must have gotten the same pics to post. At least they look like the same pics to my untrained eye.

After reading all of the posts here I feel like I may have opened a bucket of worms. I did not want to create panic or frustration for any of you. For that I apologize to everyone.
Yes I suppose the folks at Compensaver do have a vested intrest but I'm choosing to go in this direction because I feel that it is the best way for my bike. As usual, you milage may vary.

I tend to gravitate to posts of guys like Bubbie, Jack , Mr Data and other techy guys as well as use the search function (Well, I am getting better at searching least ).

So, I almost have all the parts that I need to do this job. I still don't have the inner race removal tool but I'm hoping the inner race will be OK and that I will not need the tool.
Thanks for everyone's comments and help.

 

[Hoople]

I am not convinced that after thought parts that have to be glued into the inner primary represent the pinnacle of engineering talent

Sure it does. Any engineer can come up with a solution to a problem if cost is no object. But an above average engineer will find a solution that works just as well, at a far lower cost.

What's wrong with a tray that needs to be glued to the primary cover. It's not going to be like this from here on out. Primary covers manufactured in the future will probably have the tray cast right into them. I see the glued tray as saving everyone from buying a whole new primary cover which I am grateful for.

This is one of those things where the Moco can't win. If they said everyone had to buy a new cover with a tray already casted into it, people would complain about the price. If they make an engineering change that can be applied all existing models that was affordable, people will say it's a cheap patch job.

What I have a beef about is I feel the Moco should apply some kind of credit for the purchase of new improved parts that are suppose to fix known existing problems. Every SE compensator ever made has this problem. So far I'm into this compensator mess for nearly $500 (2 SE comps) plus labor and oil and gaskets etc etc and I still have fret rust. There hasn't been any re-call,,,no extended warranty,, no labor credit,, no "good will" credit for parts or anything else. And this is all to fix the same problem over and over again.

The above is not to be a debate and is just my opinion. I read all your posts and respect your vast knowledge. Believe me, I'm not happy with the problem either.

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

Hoople - very well stated opinion. You are absolutely correct with your description of why the MOCO can't win. Bottom line is that we love our bikes and we want everything to be perfect about them. But we also spend a lot of money on them and we hate being forced to spend even more money in that pursuit of the aforementioned perfect bike.

 

[DFHarley19]

HD drawing showing the SE Comp changes from the last version to the new version

Thanks for sharing the drawings! Wondering where did you get them? Thanks!:bigsmiley12:

 

[gusotto]

Hi all
With all this talk about comp. failure,
was wondering what comp. is in my 13 Superglide

PN 40274-08A was standard on 2011 & later Touring and standard on 2012 Dyna and Softail models.

You should be "OK".

The next "fix" is PN 42200064, standard on the 2014 bikes.

 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

Thanks for sharing the drawings! Wondering where did you get them? Thanks!:bigsmiley12:

They were sent to the dealerships nationwide and a parts guy from a dealership posted them for access.