s&s carbs

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by traveller, Feb 16, 2012.

  1. traveller

    traveller Member

    81
    16
    0
    I would like some good opinions on the shorty super E carb. I have a 2003 FLSTS, I've changed cams to the crane long duration cams. Milled the heads 50 thousand with a 30 thousand head gaskets. Installed screaming eagle ignition. At present I have the stock cv carb with the plastic slide, any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
     
  2. Bodeen

    Bodeen Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

    4,310
    73
    130
    That CV is a good carb. What problems are you having with it, to want to replace it? Maybe a re-jet and a couple washers under the needle will get you where you need to be.
     
  3. Midnight Reign

    Midnight Reign Active Member

    152
    0
    1
    I would also have to ask, what symptoms are you trying to correct by replaceing the carb. The stock CV is not a bad unit and can be worked to correct alot of different issues. But to answer your original question, the S&S is also a great unit, I have one on my softail that I built bout 7 yrs ago, I set it up to run with the mods I made to the motor and have not touched it since, in fact truth be told I have never shut off the petcock except to remove the tanks when I was working on something that required removing the tanks.
     
  4. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

    4,630
    68
    99
    I personally love the Keihin CV carb. Simple, easy to understand, easy to work on. But with the changes you have made, I would expect that some adjustments would be necessary wrt jetting. Also, you will need to uncover the idle-air needle to fine tune that too.

    Check out these:

    Harley Davidson Community

    Harley Davidson Community

    Harley Davidson Community

    Please excuse the missing pix.

    If you are set on the S&S Type E, then once you reach the appropriate activity level, you can download the S&S Carb manual from the download area.

    TQ
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2012
  5. Rubyred

    Rubyred Senior Member

    1,020
    48
    11
  6. traveller

    traveller Member

    81
    16
    0
    I also like the cv carb but I'm one of those people that can't leave well enough alone. I'm always trying to make it better than it is. I've changed the slide to plastic and the emulsion tube,jets and the slow jet adjustment to one that you can turn with your fingers. At low rpm it sometimes coughs and at high rpms it lags at full throttle then it catches up so to speak
     
  7. Bodeen

    Bodeen Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

    4,310
    73
    130
    I inherited a CV that had this and that piece and part done to it. It ran absolutely terrible. I ended up replacing all the boutique parts with stock parts and working from there. I have never looked back. I now have a bowl full of aftermarket carb widgets. The links TQ provided are a great resource.
     
  8. Slo-Ryd

    Slo-Ryd Junior Member Contributor

    487
    28
    18
    I agree with all the previous posters......keep the CV. I bought a Super E Shorty 3 years ago and it made my bike run worse than the CV. Spitting, coughing, waste of $400. Massaged the CV with jetting and shim under the needle.....dialed it right in to go with the EV27 and Big Radius pipes I had done. I know some swear by Super E's and the Mikuni's but for what it's worth, you can tweak the CV to handle stage 1 and 2 mods with no problems at all and save the $$$$ for another worthwhile mod or add-on. Just my .02 :5:
     
  9. traveller

    traveller Member

    81
    16
    0
    I want to thank you and all the other posters for the input on the super E. I believe that I'll keep on tweaking the CV. thanks again
     
  10. dangerdan

    dangerdan Junior Member

    922
    26
    0
    Keep the original CV. If got and S&S and the only issue I have is during startup.
    The enricher valve has to be pulled up. The trick is knowing when to put it down. Leave it up to long and the plugs go black and once the plugs go black get a new pair. Bring it back down to early and the bike runs rough.
    I usually have to wait 3-5 minutes at startup. After 3-4 km ride she's good as gold.