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S&S Carb Tuning

J

Jack Klarich

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S&S Carb Tuning Tips

Idle Circuit

Start engine and run until slightly warm (about 1 to 2 minutes).
Turn RPM adjusting screw to obtain an idle speed of approx. 1000 RPM.
Turn Idle mixture screw clockwise, slowly leaning mixture until engine starts to die. Next, turn screw counterclockwise, slowly richening mixture, until engine RPM start to fall off, counting the number of turns as you do so. Mixture adjustment is correct when screw is positioned about halfway between these points which should be approx. 1/4 to ½ turn out from lean side of adjustment range.

Note:
Turning screw out (counterclockwise) makes idle mixture richer. Turning screw in (clockwise) makes mixture leaner. Normally correctly adjusted screw will be between 1 1/4 – 1 ½ turns out from bottom if intermediate jet size is correct.
After initial idle mixture adjustment is set, reset engine idle to approximately 1000 RPM. A lower idle speed can cause hard starting; poor throttle response erratic idle and unnecessary engine wear.
Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, repeat steps 3 & 4.


Idle Circuit Notes:

If idle adjustments are made before engine is fully warmed, idle mixture will be rich when engine reaches operating temperature.
Whenever intermediate jet change is made, idle mixture screw must be readjusted.
If idle mixture screw is more than 1 3/4 out after idle mixture is correctly adjusted, it is a fairly good indication that the intermediate jet may be too small and should be changed to the next larger size. Conversely, if the idle mixture screw is less than 1 1/4 turns out the intermediate jet may need to be changed to the next smaller size.
If idle mixture screw is turned completely in engine should not run at idle. If engine continues to run at idle with idle mixture screw seated, recheck initial setting of idle speed screw, and make sure enrichment plunger is seated. If engine still runs at idle with idle mixture screw all the in, contact S&S Tech support.


Accelerator Pump:

The function of the accelerator pump is to improve throttle response when rapidly opening the throttle at low rpm and to aid in cold starts. S&S sets the accelerator pump adjusting screw for maximum volume (all the way out) to aid during initial start-up after installation. Turning the screw inward (clockwise) decreases delivered pump volume. Turning it outward (counter clockwise) increases pump volume.

Adjusting the Accelerator Pump:

Warm engine to operating temperature.
Turn pump travel adjusting screw inward until screw contacts pump actuator arm. This shuts off the pump. Caution – closing adjusting screw with excessive force can cause irreversible damage to screw threads in carb body.
With engine warm and at idle, blip throttle and note throttle response.
Turn pump travel screw outward or counter clockwise about 1/4 turn at a time and recheck throttle response until engine no longer hesitates. This is usually about two turns out.
Minimum pump travel is recommended to conserve fuel, prevent spark plug fouling, and curtail black smoke from pipes when blipping throttle. Black smoke is usually an indication of a rich condition or excessive accelerator pump travel.


Some Performance Notes:

To be sure idle mixture adjustment is correct; always check with fully hot engine.
If popping or backfiring through air cleaner occurs upon taking off, this indicates a lean condition requiring that a larger intermediate jet be installed (one size larger) (size is stamped on bottom of jet).
When fine tuning the intermediate circuit, it is best to turn off the accelerator pump completely. It can mask jetting symptoms.
Whenever the intermediate jet is changed, the idle mixture should be readjusted.
If engine backfires or sputters in carburetor or breaks up and or dies during acceleration, increase or richen main jet size.
If engine runs flat and sluggish or blubbers, or will not take throttle, decrease main jet size.
Always use an insulator block between carb and manifold. If not the heat transfer from the manifold to the carb may cause a temporary rich condition at idle and low speed rpm.


Jetting Chart
1 7/8" Super E

Displacement
55" to 74"
74" to 84"
84" to 98"


Idle Mixture
1 - 1 1/2 turns out
1 – 1 3/4 turns out
1 – 1 3/4 turns out


Intermediate Jet
.0265 - .0295
.031 - .036
.0295 - .033


Main Jet
.062 - .072
.074 - .084
.072 - .082

Jetting Chart
2 1/6" Super G

Displacement
74" to 86"
86" to 93"
96" Up


Idle Mixture
1 1/4 - 1 3/4 turns out
1 1/4 - 1 3/4 turns out
1 1/4 - 1 3/4 turns out


Intermediate Jet
.028 - .031
.0295 - .033
.032 - .036


Main Jet
.066 - .076
.072 - .080
.074 - .088

Note:
If your carb has a serial number that begins with the letter "D" or lower it has a .040 drilled main air bleed. If the serial number begins with the letter "E" or higher it has a .040 replaceable main air bleed.

Note:
Jetting will vary depending on exhaust, cam & compression. Most jetting will be at the smaller end.
 
RIGHT ON...so far !
The VOES and crane hi4 ignition add on to my '85 Ironhead with S&S E Shorty perplexed me with backfires till I followed one of the first replies to my new member status/hello. I mentioned the problem and got," go to diagnostics ".
After hitting here, I went ahead and stripped the bowl to check - the intermediate = .0295 and main = 72. Bowl was FULL of junk and inter jet was obstructed. After a total clean up and using spares (same jet size) and following these parameters all seems back to good. I'll retry tomorrow, but all seems cleared up. The jetting is at the top of the size chart, but that's what was in it when it was pulling wheel stands (don't try that at home) Clears up 4 days of "duh" after hi4 install - MUCH appreciated !! JB
 
RIGHT ON...so far !
The VOES and crane hi4 ignition add on to my '85 Ironhead with S&S E Shorty perplexed me with backfires till I followed one of the first replies to my new member status/hello. I mentioned the problem and got," go to diagnostics ".
After hitting here, I went ahead and stripped the bowl to check - the intermediate = .0295 and main = 72. Bowl was FULL of junk and inter jet was obstructed. After a total clean up and using spares (same jet size) and following these parameters all seems back to good. I'll retry tomorrow, but all seems cleared up. The jetting is at the top of the size chart, but that's what was in it when it was pulling wheel stands (don't try that at home) Clears up 4 days of "duh" after hi4 install - MUCH appreciated !! JB

Glad we could help, Welcome to The Forum:s
 
A Thunderjet installed in those 2 circuit carbs is a wonderful addition.
Big aid for a skilled tuner while up on a dyno.
 
I've got a super e with a spacer on a '91 1200xlh. In the S&S manual they say running without the noise restrictor plate will cause a lean condition and motor damage.

REALLY???

I don't even have the restrictor plate at all (PO aparently tossed it). Is it REALLY necessary if the jetting and tune is right?
 
I've got a super e with a spacer on a '91 1200xlh. In the S&S manual they say running without the noise restrictor plate will cause a lean condition and motor damage.

REALLY???

I don't even have the restrictor plate at all (PO aparently tossed it). Is it REALLY necessary if the jetting and tune is right?
If you have a spacer you will add to your plenum giving you more air, adjust your fuel after looking at your plugs
 
Hi Guys
Just had a new carb fitted? the dealership said as I had not used my bike consistently for the year the
fuel had dried up in the carb and coursed coughing and splattering and conking out if I put the choke in.
Its still doing it but if I have the choke out just a little bit it is OK. its a Dyna wide glide 2000 model 1450cc.
Last year I had a new battery fitted and after a week it goes totally flat, the dealership took the bike in and said they changed
the battery but it kept going flat, all year, jumping it charging it, constant complaints to the shop they refused to pick it up said I should have run thebike2 times a week, rubbish I think. They then changed the battery again I think under warranty without telling me and charged me for another one? (what) pay it or you will have to walk the bike home its up to you. Batteries have a life span of one year, I have had 2 batteries in 12years without any problems. And now 2 in one year at £160.00 plus vat fitted. I am still trying to deal with this but they are to busy to deal with it. ( what now if the battery worked properly I could have used the bike more often this year and not needed a new carb maybe?
 
Hi Guys
Just had a new carb fitted? the dealership said as I had not used my bike consistently for the year the
fuel had dried up in the carb and coursed coughing and splattering and conking out if I put the choke in.
Its still doing it but if I have the choke out just a little bit it is OK. its a Dyna wide glide 2000 model 1450cc.
Last year I had a new battery fitted and after a week it goes totally flat, the dealership took the bike in and said they changed
the battery but it kept going flat, all year, jumping it charging it, constant complaints to the shop they refused to pick it up said I should have run thebike2 times a week, rubbish I think. They then changed the battery again I think under warranty without telling me and charged me for another one? (what) pay it or you will have to walk the bike home its up to you. Batteries have a life span of one year, I have had 2 batteries in 12years without any problems. And now 2 in one year at £160.00 plus vat fitted. I am still trying to deal with this but they are to busy to deal with it. ( what now if the battery worked properly I could have used the bike more often this year and not needed a new carb maybe?
You have 2 different problems. You need to find another shop to take bike to. You should never have to run bike with choke on and you are correct batteries last more than a year. Bike needs a proper draw test on electrical system and find out why there is a lean condition causing you to enriching mixture by riding with choke on......
 
I think you are being fleeced by your shop as I live in the north of Scotland my riding season is short and sporadic I have had the same carb for 10 years I don't need to change it because it hasn't been used for 6 or 8 months however over the same period of time I have had 3 batteries and 2 voltage regulators bad voltage regulators killed the batteries
I would first check for an intake leak weakening the fuel mixture between the carb and the cylinders
With the engine running spray some wd 40 around the inlet manifold if there is a changer in revs then you have an intake leak

Brian
 
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