S&S 509C install on a 2006 FatBoy 88B

Cams came in and I'll be heading to the shop to borrow some tools to make it easier. Once done, I'll get it tuned and upload the sheet as well. Just putting the ProPipe on has made a tremendous difference in throttle response so I can't wait to get these in and see how much better it feels!

 

Bet you are excited to feel the power:s

 

I am. Unfortunately Fedex dropped the ball and are holding my push rods hostage so I couldn't get it all buttoned up this morning. Worked from 10 to about 2. Most of that time was spent reassembling the stupid spring tensioner shoes. I had the Cyco jig and was able to pop the old shoes off and put the new ones on without issue, but the other half at the base of the spring kept separating. Should have just gotten the upgraded cam plate with hydro tensioners and not worried about replacing the shoes. I'm glad I replaced them, though. They were really brittle and I bet if I had somehow managed to slap the timing chain, they would have shattered.
I also made the mistake of pressing the bearing onto the front cam before pressing it into the cam plate and that made it almost impossible to get it aligned in the race. I wasn't thinking at that point (frustration, beer and sleep deprivation) and realize if I had just heated the stupid plate up, they bearings would have fallen right in.
I'll never be completely happy with those tensioners but at least I know if I end up going with a 98" build, I'll be replacing everything in that cam chest with better materials. If I don't, it's because I sold it for a touring bike!

 

Don't worry about the tensioners or the cam plate. The early OEM cam plate with outer bearings is actually quite robust; not as pretty as the slick orange billet plate or the blue S&S plate but is more than adequate for bolt in cam upgrades.

The way to install the cams is to install the bearings on both cams, front and rear, heat up the cam plate and drop both cams in at the same time. Just have to be sure the timing marks are aligned.

If you haven't cut the old pushrods out, you can run the OEM pushrods with the 509 cams to finish up and get her tuned. Cut the OEM pushrods out later and install the adjustables. That is if you get tired of waiting for Mr. Brown.:s

 

FedEx finally came and an hour later, I was racing down the back roads. I can feel the difference even without a map change or tune. Not massive but noticeable. The only thing I'm seeing that's bad is the top end noise has gotten much louder. Anything I should be concerned about?

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No reflection on your mechanical skills but I would look at push rod adjustment; if it's off just a hair the valve train will be noisy. How did you adjust and what lifters did you use?

 

I reused the stock lifters. Tuned then 15 flats and locked it down. Same noise I usually hear, just louder at certain rpms than before. If it's still the same when I get it tuned, I'll get the indy's opinion and go from there. May just take the top end off and use a feeler gauge to adjust precisely

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I'll check the exhaust gaskets too. Noticed I had been running the oe and se gaskets and pulled the oe out before reassembly. Wasn't leaking before so I doubt it is now

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How many miles on the stock lifters? If more than 25K, replace them.

Are you sure you had the piston at TDC on the compression stroke?

SE pushrods? PN 18404-08? How many turns?

 

21k on the lifters.

I didn't check the pistons through the spark plug holes but I did get a good puff of air and the lifters were bottomed out. I can easily jack it up and do it again if need be, but I'm relatively sure I got it right.

SE pushrods. 2.5 turns. Adjusted fronts first, let them bleed down, rotated rear tire till I heard the puff and ensured the lifters for the rear were bottomed out and adjusted them.

It's not crazy loud but it is different and I have certainly heard worse. I may just be trying to make something up since I don't get to do this as often as I like so I'm not 100% trusting in myself.