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Road King Fuel Pump Issue

Today has some good news. I replaced the Cam Position Sensor and life is much better.
Definetly cleared the Code 56. Bike is much better starting. However is still has it's rough moments. I am getting Code 24 (front coil) I am running very rich and fouling the back plug black. I have a brand new coil, wires and plugs. So I am ignoring this code for now.

I tried adding the PCIII back and it is toast for sure, bike will not fire with it installed.

I think I will need to get a new Power Commander, as I have Vance and Hines straight pipes and this could be the issue with running rich.

This has been a long process for me, and painful in that the bike has been down for so many nice riding days. However if anyone has been following this thread I would summarize by saying:


In the end I believe it was the Cam Position Sensor causing most of my issues. But I am still not sure what smoked my PCIII. And why both at the same time?

If I had this to do over now, I would have replaced Crank Sensor ($60) and Cam Sensor ($70) at the same time, first. They are the cheapest parts and if you follow the instructions in the manual, very easy to change using the mechanics wire, and would be even easier to do at the same time.

I looked at the codes I was getting and started with the lowest number first as suggested in the manual. I bought a new coil, wires, plugs etc. To correct codes 24, 25. Which I now believe where caused by bad Cam Sensor. Having it to do over again I wish I would have started with the sensors (cheap parts) first.

I did find some interesting stuff out about my bike (2000 Road King Police Injected) in this process.

1.) Get the OEM Manual, its worth the $60, however hard to get into detailed testing with out a break out box, but a must have for sure.
2.) The in tank fuel line does rub the inside of the tank and will rub through. I caught mine early.
3.) The wires on the Voltage regualtor do rub the frame and will rub through and short. I found a repair from the previous owner.
4.) The harness to the Fuel injectors will damage wires if they are too tight. Mine were not damaged but I could see how they could be.
5.) The Hand controls at the Run/Off switch will pinch a wire and short to ground. Did it once :(
6.) I will always solder and heat shrink any wires repairs, and use the stuff with the glue inside it if I can find some more.

And I am very appreciative to "Hoople" for helping me out. He taught me several things along the way and was always quick to reply. And he did it in a way, not to make me feel stupid, which I did at times. Thanks Again Man!!!

It may take me a few pay checks to pick up the new PCIII ($250-$300), but I will post back here when I do get it in to see if it corrects the issues I have left over.
 
FLHPI said:
However is still has it's rough moments. I am getting Code 24 (front coil) I am running very rich and fouling the back plug black. I have a brand new coil, wires and plugs. So I am ignoring this code for now.
Click to expand...


I am curious on how you are clearing the DTC codes from the history log.

It sounds like something is still not right with the bike. I don't see the PCIII fixing the rear plug fouling, the code 24, or the engine running rich.

Measure the DC voltage from the Positive of the battery (directly at the battery) to terminal B at the coil while the engine is running. You may have to back-probe terminal B at the coil or use a micro straight pin through the wire.
A reading of zero would be great but it won't be. Note if the reading holds steady or if it fluctuates.
 
Engine light shuts off after the bike runs for a few minutes. If I shut it off with the light on I can check the codes and retrieve code 24. It has cleared itself everytime so far after runnning.

Terminal B is suppose to be +12V correct? If I have the meter set to DC Volts and the Red Lead on Battery Positive and the Black Lead to a straight pin stuck in the wire at B term, I should see 0 volts? But just note if its a steady reading?
 
After some more pondering, trying to figure out what would take out the PCIII and the Cam Sensor, (and now who knows what else) Is it possible that a bad circuit breaker (which I changed) could have damaged these parts?
 
3.) The wires on the Voltage regualtor do rub the frame and will rub through and short. I found a repair from the previous owner. This could be a problem, a dead short can cause major problems for ALL electrical systems, especially if the bike were running at high RPM when the short happened
 
What Jack says is correct. Shorting a major battery feed wire to ground can destroy any solid state component attached to it. Even just electrical noise caused by a loose major feed wire or connector can do it. Since the alternator is permanent magnet, it does not rely on the battery to produce a field magnet. It can produce current on it's own. So having 2 sources of current means they must be bonded together and remain bonded. If they un-bond while the bike is running (bad CB Breaker) anything can happen downstream to solid state components. So blowing the PCIII is no surprise to me. It would have surprised me if it didn't blow.

Which ECM is installed in the bike. For now you must run original. Same part number on ECM only means both are hardware-wise the same. Different maps and base code can exist. If your running original ECM, I would say the code 24, the fouled plug & engine running rich are tied together. Running rich can come from several places but for now, I bet they are all tied together.

You should not be seeing any codes. Especially "current" codes.
Perform the voltage drop test. Expect to see a small voltage drop during the voltage drop test. If the battery feed wire to coil (B wire) was really bad, I would expect to see both a 24 & 25. A marginal voltage drop number will only throw 1 code. A meter is not the best tool to use for this type of test but it is all we have.
Somethings not right. You need to correct that 24 code first.

I am still confused on why the orignial ECM codes are cleared out. Maybe it's your year only. I thought they remained for 50 clean cycles etc.
 
The voltage regulator wire rub was from previous
Owner. He told me it blew the stator and he had
It replaced. I have had the bike 3 yrs over 15k
Miles. No problem. But when I started going through
The wiring I found where it rubbed and did not
Like the repair job. I replaced the regulator.

Today going through page 9-27 of my manual
Under black smoke and fouled plugs I figured
I would start checking what I could. No leaky injectors
Good air filter. Etc. I have no way of checking
Fuel pressure.
then I got to engine temp circuit.
It made sense to me as my issues were never cold
Starts but subsequent starts. I pulled the engine
Temp sensor and attempted to check resistance
On chart of 9-56 of manual. I heated up the sensor
On the bench with heat gun. Measured temp
With an infrared. An checked resistance with DVOM
Maybe not the best test. But working with what
I can. Seemed as the sensor cooled it was showing
Resistance of a much higher temp. According
To the chart. It was only accurate at low or high
Temps. Thinking maybe the core of sensor was
Still warmer than then outside (like a baked potato)
I thought was testing wasn't accurate. But then
I priced it at $34 and in stock. So I picked one up.
Long story short the bike starts like it should now.
No more backfire or hard subsequent starts.
Checked the plugs and they are not fouled. (yet)

At this point I am going to start Ty wrapping wires
Back up and attempt a road test.

In regards to the ECM. I am referring to the orig
HD ECM. P/n 32423-99. I got one off a guy that
Came off same year Road King. I was not aware
That these could be programmed. I know new
Replacements need to be flashed by the dealer.

And in regards to the codes in history. Using the
Flashing engine light on the year/model will not
Show history codes. The will however show on the
Scanalyzer however. According to the book anyway.
So without Scanalyzer you cannot check historic codes.
Only current.

Thanks for all the comments guys. I really appreciate it.
WAP.gif
 
FOR SALE: 2000 Road King

I put it all back together. Fired up First time. Drove it as far as I wanted to push it back.
Back and forth about 15 minute ride.

Pulled in the garage. Shut it off. Wont start.
Now I get codes 23-32 injectors

No more Fouled plugs, No more Coil Codes.

Same problem differnet codes.

I will let it cool down and I am sure it will start.
And the codes will go away.

Taking offers.
 
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