brownfoxx1
Active Member
i still wish HMO would intall a schrader valve in the fuel rail. so we could ck fuel pressure. anyone done this on their own?oh! you can go to ronnies microfiche & look at the wireing schematic for your bike too.
Road King Fuel Pump Issue
- Thread starter FLHPI
- Start date
According to the schematic it powers the coil
And the fuel pump.yel/grn wire. I have replaced the coil
And the Bank angle sensor which I understand
Will kill the coil and the fuel pump.
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Sorry yes I have performed the diag testing.
However on this bike you have to turn the ignition
On/off 3 times while holding trip button. Works
With or without the jumper.
I have done it in the past. . I get nothing right now.
================================================
And the fuel pump.yel/grn wire. I have replaced the coil
And the Bank angle sensor which I understand
Will kill the coil and the fuel pump.
=================================================
Sorry yes I have performed the diag testing.
However on this bike you have to turn the ignition
On/off 3 times while holding trip button. Works
With or without the jumper.
I have done it in the past. . I get nothing right now.
================================================
Last edited by a moderator:
Hoople
Account Removed
The closest match I have for schematics is a 2000 FLHT, FLTR & FLHR. My schematics show the fuel pump relay supplying power to the coil, both injectors and the fuel pump. Double check your schematics. BAS gets it's power from the ignition fuse & not the fuel pump relay (see entry point # 12). BAS output (to kill engine) goes to pin 7 of ECM.
I can't imagine the Police bike being that different in this area.
Take a look at these two attachments and compare them to what you have. Do you see any dramatic differences from what you have. Especially in the area of ECM power relay, Fuel pump relay, Starter relay. My schematic shows a total of 5 relays. The three I listed plus a Stop light relay & Power relay, so we match there.
I have no reason to doubt you but I want to confirm before we start:
1) Your absolutely positive that the relay you hear chatter is the fuel pump relay.
2) You have no codes. I have never heard of holding the trip button and turning the ignition On/Off 3 times. It sounds like your going into some configuration mode or TSM diagnostics. During normal operation, the check engine light illuminates for approximately four seconds when the ignition is turned ON. The check-engine light then turns off and remains off. If a diagnostic code(s) has been set, the check-engine light turns on for four seconds, turns off, then turns back on for eight seconds or longer.
What happens to your check engine light when you boot the ECM. Does it show a stored code? => (If a diagnostic code(s) has been set, the check-engine light turns on for four seconds, turns off, then turns back on for eight seconds or longer)
3) Are your manuals genuine or aftermarket. I am using aftermarket. Do you you have the ability to scan a page out of your manual and save it as a PDF file?
I can't imagine the Police bike being that different in this area.
Take a look at these two attachments and compare them to what you have. Do you see any dramatic differences from what you have. Especially in the area of ECM power relay, Fuel pump relay, Starter relay. My schematic shows a total of 5 relays. The three I listed plus a Stop light relay & Power relay, so we match there.
I have no reason to doubt you but I want to confirm before we start:
1) Your absolutely positive that the relay you hear chatter is the fuel pump relay.
2) You have no codes. I have never heard of holding the trip button and turning the ignition On/Off 3 times. It sounds like your going into some configuration mode or TSM diagnostics. During normal operation, the check engine light illuminates for approximately four seconds when the ignition is turned ON. The check-engine light then turns off and remains off. If a diagnostic code(s) has been set, the check-engine light turns on for four seconds, turns off, then turns back on for eight seconds or longer.
What happens to your check engine light when you boot the ECM. Does it show a stored code? => (If a diagnostic code(s) has been set, the check-engine light turns on for four seconds, turns off, then turns back on for eight seconds or longer)
3) Are your manuals genuine or aftermarket. I am using aftermarket. Do you you have the ability to scan a page out of your manual and save it as a PDF file?
I have the exact same schematics you have. (I have ordered genuine manual also)
I am sure about the relay that is clicking. I will stop saying chatter, because I am not 100% sure it's chatter or just a quick on/off. The relay socket has a tag on the harness that says "Fuel Pump" and I can feel it click when it's trying to get the pump to prime.
I will double check for codes again tonight. As far as getting into Diag Mode, I have never been able to do so by installing the jumper wire between 1 and 2 of the diag connector. I have used the On/Off with the trip button. It lights the Engine light for a couple seconds, then it goes out, then comes back on and blinks very fast for 8 seconds then starts to display the codes, flashes first number of code, pause, flashes second number, etc.
I am sure about the relay that is clicking. I will stop saying chatter, because I am not 100% sure it's chatter or just a quick on/off. The relay socket has a tag on the harness that says "Fuel Pump" and I can feel it click when it's trying to get the pump to prime.
I will double check for codes again tonight. As far as getting into Diag Mode, I have never been able to do so by installing the jumper wire between 1 and 2 of the diag connector. I have used the On/Off with the trip button. It lights the Engine light for a couple seconds, then it goes out, then comes back on and blinks very fast for 8 seconds then starts to display the codes, flashes first number of code, pause, flashes second number, etc.
Hoople
Account Removed
Just for fun I was looking at a HD service manual for a 2001 instead of a 2000 and it does support what you said about codes. Granted it is for a 2001 but they are the Genuine manuals w/ police supplement (your exact bike but 2001). So for now, lets go with your way for checking codes as being correct. Here are the 2 pages from the HD manuals (2001) about checking codes. They say nothing about using a jumper wire. Plus, the lamp diags won't show historical codes. Only current codes. That's not much help.
Now if you hop over to a an injected 2001 Dyna, it uses the jumper wire method. So the FL series is unique in some ways.
Now if you hop over to a an injected 2001 Dyna, it uses the jumper wire method. So the FL series is unique in some ways.
Hoople
Account Removed
I don't know the history on your bike, but this must be checked. Even if you have the upgraded 50 amp installed, I would replace it with a new one. They are just much too problem prone on these bikes.
When these CB's go bad, they don't snap open like they should. Therefore you can loose ignition (engine dies) and still have lights. You can not test them with an ohm meter.
If you can not get your hands on a new one (50 amp) easily or quickly, I can tell you how to test it while your riding the bike.
When these CB's go bad, they don't snap open like they should. Therefore you can loose ignition (engine dies) and still have lights. You can not test them with an ohm meter.
If you can not get your hands on a new one (50 amp) easily or quickly, I can tell you how to test it while your riding the bike.
I can see if that part is available at local dealer. I tried again tonight to retrieve codes.
Although I still have the pump out of the tank. I get same results whether it's plugged in or not. I get 16 quick flashing lights pause 16 quick flashing lights, etc. I think that is more of an error in the diagnotics than a trouble code. I was looking at past codes I had jotted down. 24 and 35. 24 being front coil, which was replaced and 35 being tach, which I do not have, but was original to the police bikes, I have also read that tach codes can be indicative of other errors. Currently I do not have any codes showing.
Although I still have the pump out of the tank. I get same results whether it's plugged in or not. I get 16 quick flashing lights pause 16 quick flashing lights, etc. I think that is more of an error in the diagnotics than a trouble code. I was looking at past codes I had jotted down. 24 and 35. 24 being front coil, which was replaced and 35 being tach, which I do not have, but was original to the police bikes, I have also read that tach codes can be indicative of other errors. Currently I do not have any codes showing.
Hoople, what are your thoughts on relocating the breaker (new one) to the side panel away from the heat or using the MaxiFuse? Seems the heat is what eats these breakers up, even after replacing them, I am reading stories of them failing again. I have also heard of them taking out the PCIII. Which I had but have eliminated because the bike will not start at all with it in. I have checked continuity on the breaker but not right after the bike dies.