riding the clutch

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by jlouden, Aug 7, 2010.

  1. jlouden

    jlouden Member

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    hello all. i got the motor done on my 08 SG. i put the 106" big bore kit, 583 s&s cams,V&H 2 into 1,PVC5,s&s air cleaner and just polished up my stock heads some. trouble is i have to ride the clutch alot more from a dead stop to get going. any ideas on why this is? thanks for your help
     
  2. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Meaning you have no low rpm idle torque to get the bike going. Has it been fuel remapped. Checked for intake leaks?
     
  3. ironmark

    ironmark Junior Member

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    I did not know a 106" kit was available for the 96" motor . Did you put in the clutch spring upgrade kit ? If not that should take care of the problem because the kit has stronger springs so the clutch can handle the increase in tourqe , I would recommend doing the compensator while you are in there because it will help when you start the bike and eliminate alot of primary noise .
     
  4. jlouden

    jlouden Member

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    i had no idea about the spring upgrade. thanks. as far as the mapping, jamie at fuel moto has been outstanding to help me out!! gave him my numbers and he said they looked good. thank you all for the help
     
  5. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you might just be NOT leaving out the clutch and getting the speed up...

    My take on the "Red" part of your statement, you SLIP the clutch to get it up to speed.. Right?

    If so, I doubt if it is any of the other above replies ???Other than Hoople's...... I think either I miss read or they miss read your problem..


    Slipping the clutch to get it going should not be necessary as you only have 580 lift cams with big bore... ... Can't imagine the engine being that UN-torqued needing to slip the clutch..

    what is the compression ratio of the big bore??

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  6. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    Like Bubbie says, the lack of torque to leave the line means something is amiss not in the drive train...but the engine or clutch coupling. If you do not slip the clutch, your V-Twin would buck like a bronco but not stall unless you "drop" the clutch lever or are starting off in the 2nd or 3rd gear (not that we have ever been caught in the wrong gear when approaching a turn when the silly car along side wants to use your lane to turn).

    Make sure your clutch cable is set for very little free play and clutch nut inside the case is only 1 or 2 castellations from contact...lets the clutch pack have room, but full tension will be available when lever is released.
     
  7. jlouden

    jlouden Member

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    i believe the compression ratio is 10:1. sorry if i wasnt clear on the problem.i guess the best way to put it is like starting out in 2nd gear.
     
  8. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Smitty brings up a very good point here.

    The stock clutches are only designed to withstand a small margin over what a stock engine is capable of producing.

    When modifications are done over the basic stage 1 pieces on these engines, the sum of the total is only as good as the weakest link in this case it would be the new found power being transmitted to the ground. Something inbetween that isn't modified as well will suffer the loss in trying to transmit more power to the ground than it is capable of doing.

    Usually with minor modifications adding the SE clutch spring will add a measure of extra power transmissions without tearing anything up. When the modifications are more severe, then a clutch replacement to a better unit is necessary for longevity. There's many choices available here for replacing the clutch but then also consider other parts in the drive system that haven't been up to the task like the primary chain, tensioner too and the rear drive belt. These bikes as a whole are not over engineered to accept major improvements in HP without a breakdown in some area.

    What I'm trying to get across it the entire drive train must be assessed when doing any major modifications if the end result is to be reliability.
     
  9. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member

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    I went over to the SS web site and read up on the 583 cams that you have installed...

    They have a compression relief point on the back side of the Lobe to OPEN the exhaust valve and take OFF some compression to make starting easier...

    My thoughts on a product like this is """NO Not for Me!"""

    This may be exactly YOUR problem... NO Torque on Low Speed while the cams release the compression.... You needing to ""slip the clutch"" Until the bike motor runs fast enough to have power on it's own...

    Think About IT.....
    Sound exactly to me what Your Problem IS.......

    I would NOT use a cams like these...(.) If I need to release compression, I would do it with a valve drilled into the heads(normal way)

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  10. jlouden

    jlouden Member

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    yes Bubbie it sure does man. thanks