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Retired Barnstormer goes 4 A Dyna/wApes

Thanks Jeff & Fin. I have watched the fork seals be replaced from start to finish.. Ol Boy made it look easy. I don't really think my seal project will go as quick as the one I watched. I have a 18 year old fxdwg twin-cam. This was the first year of this engine model, and I have around 57,000 miles on the bike. At 32,000 miles the engine bore was increased to 30 Over, Cams more lift. I have gotten very efficient at stripping old screw heads trying to loosen them, and having to drill and extract with a cordless drill. Im aware I may have to use heat to break some threads. And have access to a fork seal tool. Yes I need a manual, I have been resorting to google for torque specks and diagrams. Which dose the job. I will look into the Clymer manual, I guess they can be purchased online. I have been buying my parts through J & P Cycles, but I have been told their are other cheaper parts catalogs. Any recommendations? Also dose anyone have a preference on fork seal manufacture? I guess I should ask that question on the link Jeff recommended, Chassis and Suspension. At first I would take the bike to the shop for maintenance and repairs. But after three different shop guys told me they could order and replace the throttle cables on my 22 inch Apes to my Mikuni. All three ordered the wrong cable lengths and had to return them. The cables to a Mikuni are two different lengths. That's when I got a lift and started working on it myself.. And to the surprise of those watching around me, I have got it right the first time.. The forks are probably going to really test my ability.. Thanks for the welcome guys...
 
If you put the bike on a bike lift but close to the ground once the font wheel fender and brake parts are removed then there is enough space to get the tubes out of the top and bottom yoke
as I remember you need to remove the bottom screw through the space in the bottom of the lower fork while the spring is under tension and is easiest done with an impact driver but a long reach allen head is required
I put the fork back into the lower yoke and secured it in position to allow removal of the top cap a lot of heat was required to get one of them off this also melted the o ring
on the whole it went like the book said apart from that difficult top cap sometimes it is good to take the dog for a walk and re evaluate difficulties with a clear head and go back with a new plan

Brian
 
Thanks Brian, This is exactly what I was hoping this forum would provide. I hadn't thought of lift height, or position. It dose make sence. Almost every frame or non engine fastener/ screws have stripped out "the head" upon removal. This is a eighteen year old bike and I have learned to expect this. I have also gotten good at extracting them for replacement. I do have heat and impacts. The seal replacement I observed was on a much newer bike, and offered little resistance, and was done relatively fast. I also have access to a seal tool, needed to install the new seals. I have been told the brand makes a difference as well.. I will let you know how well it goes. Figure might as well replace the tire while I have it off as well
 
Brian, I was looking through old threads and came across one of yours from 2012. Tuning a Mikuni.. I have a Mikuni and recently went through it to clean it out. It did have trash in the jets that was causing the engine light to stay on, and go off, back on. I first thought it was ignition problems, but after cleaning the carburetor it solved the engine light on problem. I reinstalled it and it works a lot better, but I am going to get a rebuild kit and go through it again to do it right. Here is my question. When i am starting the bike sometimes smoke comes out of the carburetor or air cleaner, not a backfire but as it is trying to fire it burps it out. Smoke, once running it is not a issue. Outside of wanting to rebuild the carb entirely, I keep messing with the air mixture screw. I know the two turn out rule as far as a preset, and have adjusted it to the lean side for best operating sound.. But what I keep screwing with it for is trying to minimise the back fire popping upon deceleration in gear. Or engine brake. I have been told that hi performance engines like mine are going to pop in this deceleration stage. Dose the air mixture to the pilot jet have any bearing on this, or is it in my imagination. Any input there buddy>??
 
A lean mixture can cause a spit back from the carb however a modified engine is going to take a wee bit more tuning of the carb to get it as good as it can be
First point is to rebuild the carb and replace all the seals gaskets etc then start to tune the carb however always best to check for intake leaks as does not matter how well the carb is tuned is extra air is being drawn in between carb and engine then the mixture will be lean
Backfire can be associated with a lean mixture but also with air leaks in the exhaust system

Brian
 
Jeff Klarich said:
Go to the home page of the fourm and look for the topic that best fits your issue or question. In your case it would fit under Chassis suspension and front end. Open a new thread and post your issue.

Hopefully this will get you started.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jeff, I have been working lately and not had time to get to the bike, but it will be soon.. So far everyone has been helpful filling in the details regarding my quest to learn how to break down my own bike, and learn how to diagnose problems that are sometimes not to revealing, or effecting other systems on the bike that I would have never thought they were on the same fuse, circuit, or ignition harness. Like why dose the transmission sensor, or speedometer sensor blow fuses, and kill the break light and the speedometer lights, and engine light..? But neutral and the oil light still work? They are on a seperate fuse. Gauge fuse, but they are blowing the ignition fuse the minute i turn on the switch. But the bike still fires and runs without it. I kinda got off track here. This is for the electrical forum, and I need a manual, and thanks again for pointing me in the right direction...
 
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