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I did not do anything to the starter to get it to crank. The "forward controls" are actually the hand controls. I have replaced these and have them temporarily wired with wire nuts until I figure out what handlebars I am going to install. The new hand controls have the start button, run/stop, turn signals etc. I wired these color to color with the existing wires, and these are what I am using to turn the starter over.

The reading between socket receptacle pins # 85 and #86 is 12.17 volts. Slightly different from socket receptacle #30, which is still 12.67 volts.
 
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If you did read 12.17 volts between pin #85 & #86, it means the TSM has enabled the system relay to pick & close the normally open contacts thereby closing terminal #30 (source voltage) to terminal #87 (feed to coil & injectors).

So it appears the system relay is bad. I am basing that on the fact you have 12.67 volts on terminal #30 and just over 10 volts on the Yel/Green wire of the coil. Those two voltages should be the same when the system relay is picked and yours are not.

At this point you a choice of what to do. You can either get a new system relay and give it a try, or as a test, you can remove the system relay and place a small 16 AWG jumper between socket #30 and #87 just to simulate a good relay. Install the jumper wire with the ignition key off. With the jumper in place, turn ON ignition and place the grip kill switch in the "RUN" position. As long as you are not dealing with multiple problems at one time, the bike should now start or you should at least have spark. If the bike does start, you will not be able to kill the engine with the kill switch because the system relay is now bypassed by the jumper. Of course get yourself a new relay and replace the jumper with a new relay.

If your not comfortable with "hot wiring" the system relay as a test, just buy a new relay (cheap @ $7.50 MSRP) and give it a try. Even if the bike still refuses to start, you should now have ~ 12.2 volts (source voltage) at the coil instead of the 10 volts you had.

You still need to get that speedo working so you can read codes & clear codes. Deep down inside, I think you may be dealing with multiple problems since you don't know who owned the bike and what they did to it. You also should have more voltage than 9.4 volts at the battery when cranking (entry point #14 of thread), but you said the battery was new & charged. No speedo & low cranking voltage tells me there is more to this issue than just a simple relay but all you can do is take it 1 step at a time.
 
Lets just hope the previous owner did not install a hidden kill switch or something like it....:)
 
Kool!.. You may want to keep that old relay handy to swap out when you park your ride in a bad neighborhood.:)
 
1) Check the 15 amp fuse labeled ECM. Read the voltage at that fuse to frame ground. You should read 12.5 volts with the ignition ON.

How do you read voltage at fuse to ground? I'm thinking, probe fuse socket, but are there not two "pins" in the socket? Does it matter which one? Or am I way off base?
 
1) Check the 15 amp fuse labeled ECM. Read the voltage at that fuse to frame ground. You should read 12.5 volts with the ignition ON.

How do you read voltage at fuse to ground? I'm thinking, probe fuse socket, but are there not two "pins" in the socket? Does it matter which one? Or am I way off base?

If you look closely at the top of any Genuine HD fuse, there are two little windows right in the blue plastic that allow you to probe each side of the fuse with your meter probe while the fuse is still installed in the fuse holder.

Instead of removing the fuse and using an ohm meter to test a fuse, you can use your voltmeter and probe each side quickly. Reading voltage on 1 side and not the other tells you the fuse is blown.
 
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