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replacing main shaft inner bearing race

deers45

Member
do i realy need the harley tool for this or can i use a pc of pipe and tap it on. had to replace at 20k miles because the inner race was galded. looked to me like the bearing was riding off center of this race a little. thought this might been some of the cause. thought i would clean the shaft a little w emory cloth and put the race in hot water before trying to install. i know the tool is to get it the right distance. any measurements avalible this is the shaft that goes through belt sproket and clutch :x
 
do i realy need the harley tool for this or can i use a pc of pipe and tap it on. had to replace at 20k miles because the inner race was galded. looked to me like the bearing was riding off center of this race a little. thought this might been some of the cause. thought i would clean the shaft a little w emory cloth and put the race in hot water before trying to install. i know the tool is to get it the right distance. any measurements avalible this is the shaft that goes through belt sproket and clutch :x

You can do that. Just make sure to leave the necessary clearance so you can get the remover on it if required in the future.

But before you decide, Baker carries a bearing that DOES NOT need the inner race on the shaft. Check this out:

High Torque Bearing Kit - BAKER Drivetrain | Premium Drivetrain Upgrades | Pieces Parts

TQ
 
no time for that got a trip in a few days anybody else w an opinion on mesurement or tapping it on thanks for your help TQuentin1
 
no time for that got a trip in a few days anybody else w an opinion on mesurement or tapping it on thanks for your help TQuentin1

No problem using the pipe as a driver as long as the ID of the pipe is clean, and the mouth has no lip from however you cut it. The end against the race should be perpendicular to the shaft all the way around so you are putting even pressure on the race as you install it.

I think the book says to leave a 1/10", but around an 1/8" is plenty to get the puller on the race if you ever have to yank it off in the future.

TQ
 
I have had sucess with a couple of bits of pipe of the correct diamiter and using the clutch nut to ease the inner race on to the shaft

Brian

went out to shed found the right bits 1st bit of pipe is 2 1/4" and that should aloow you to push the innerrace on so far with the clutch nut then remove nut and bit of pipe and use a second piece thats 2 7/8" and that should allow you to use the clutch nut to push it right on

Brian
 
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I cut a thin bit of steel to shape and dropped it down behind the inner race drilled 2 holes in it for threaded rod and a straight bit with 2 matching holes that went over the clutch nut with the threaded rod joining the 2 bits together as i tightened the nuts on the rods evenly it drew the bearing inner race off the shaft
it took a wee bit of trial and error to cut and shape to get it all to fit but it did the job

Brian
 
use a piece of pipe that is the right size puting it over the main shaft . use a washer big enough over the end of the pipe and crank down the nut to move the race onto the shaft . when the nut travels to the end of its travel add a short piece of pipe to move it down the shaft further . my race was never off the shaft and it measures 1/8th of an inch.
 
I agree with the washer / nut to drive it on technique. I cut diff lengths of pipe to allow me to change it as the race was pressed on. Don't let your wife catch you but....get a old tin pie plate . Set bearing race in it and put in oven and heat it up to about 150 . Quickly take it to shop and slide on with an oven mitt (again don't tell your wife you got this from me) then press on rest of way with washer nut idea. Mine slid on like a dream. No chance of stressing bearings. Almost as bad is when it goes too far and eats up trans seal. I finally broke down and bought correct tools for this job from George's garage. He makes great stuff. Of course I have only had to use it on other guys bikes since. Mine has been fine so far. Hope that helps.
 
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