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Replaced idle and throttle cable, now bike won't start

The way you describe that Noise: Click then hear nothing... switch off then a gurgling ...The pump inside the tank Could have a loose or bad electrical connection OR pump has seen its better day. Trying to pump but starts against its self and Not completing the full action.Then Gurgling when turned off...It sounds like it IS trying to pump but Can't.

You might take it apart to check the wires, IF nothing there,,,,,, then to make pump Run,,,, Tap it lightly on First Switch on to see IF it will go a complete cycle... Un-jaming its self.

Hope that made sense...

signed....BUBBIE
 
Now that you've established you have power to the pump I'm on board with BUBBIE. I'd be looking at a weak or bad pump.
 
Never had a bike before with a "idle cable" still don't really understand what it does,

The 2 cables work as a push pull system, the 2nd cable returns it to idle. The old system (1 cable with return spring)
 
The two cable system still utilizes a spring to return the throttle to idle. The second cable is a safety feature mandated by the DOT to enable the operator to manually return the throttle to the idle position in the event of a malfunction (broken return spring).
 
Thanks guys, for the clarification of the idle cable. I noticed that that's how it worked, but didn't really know why, as the throttle wheel is spring loaded.

My previous bike (BSA-M20) clearly didn't have that, nor was it subject to DOT regs:bigsmiley24:

Took the day off, so let's get some grease on my hands.
 
Just figured out that at no point do I have power to the fuel pump fuse.

Ignition off, iginition on, it doesn't matter, there never is power to the fuel pump fuse.

ECM does have power at the fuse.

Could the system relay be bad? If so, how can I test it?
 
Just figured out that at no point do I have power to the fuel pump fuse.

Ignition off, iginition on, it doesn't matter, there never is power to the fuel pump fuse.

ECM does have power at the fuse.

Could the system relay be bad? If so, how can I test it?


So now you have all but eliminated the pump as the problem. Yes relays can go bad but I'm not sure how to test them. Are you sure the fuse is good? have you replaced it to make sure?
 
A few minutes and a cup of coffee later: I do have power to the fuel pump fuse with the ignition on and kill switch in run position, but for a few seconds only.......
 
A few minutes and a cup of coffee later: I do have power to the fuel pump fuse with the ignition on and kill switch in run position, but for a few seconds only.......

You only have power to the fuse for a few seconds? or the pump only runs for a few seconds? The pump will only run for a few seconds until it builds up the pressure it needs.
 
Like Jeff Said: I would believe you have it fixed... Power only stays on for the Short time UNLESS running...

Is it running ok now?

signed....BUBBIE
 
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