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Removing broken fork pinch bolt

softailhog

softailhog

Active Member
Riding my 02 Heritage when oil started soaking my left pant leg. Thought at first it was the fork oil seal, once I got it apart I found that the pinch bolt had broken and the fork leg had unscrewed. Scary find! Now I am faced with removing the broken part of the bolt. I have read that several people swear by left hand drill bits instead of easy outs, etc. What have you used to successfully drill out and remove broken bolts, studs, etc?
 
Hi Breeze,
No, not the damper tube bolt. The fork tube unscrewed and dropped down from the fork plug #28. The only thing keeping the fork attached was the fender brace and axle! The oil puked out the top of the tube and the spring was exposed. I have got it apart and can access the hole where the pinch bolt #7 broke. I am just wondering the easiest way to drill it out and replace it with a grade 8 bolt.
 
Did the bolt (#7) shear off flush with the side of the aluminium bracket (#22 45605-00 STEM & BRACKET ASM. INCLUDES LOWER BRG. CONE), or on the inside (across the "gap")? Is the remaining part of the bolt "flat" enough to drill a pilot hole for an easyout?

It would be a good idea to drill the pilot hole for the easyout with a left hand drillbit. That way it might even get the bolt fragment out without the need to use the easyout. Just go slow and make sure the pilot hole starts in the center of the bolt fragment so the threads in the aluminium bracket are not damaged.

Would also be advisable to apply Blaster or Kroil Penentrating Oil liberally to try and help with the easyout process. Whatever you do, do not twist off the easyout bit in the pilot hole.

As an alternative, I believe the bolt screws through the bracket. So is the end of the bolt accessible from the "backside" of the bracket? Can you get to it to try and thread it all the way through? If you can not get a bite on it with anything, can you use a left-hand drillbit to drill a pilot hole in the end of the bolt fragment and then use the easyout to thread it all the way through?

Cheers,

TQ
 
Last edited:
Hi TQ,
No, it is inside, across the gap. The remaining part is not very flat. I was thinking I would try the left hand drill bit to get it out. If that fails, trying to get at it from the backside. I have never tried the left hand bit idea.
 
softailhog said:
Hi TQ,
No, it is inside, across the gap. The remaining part is not very flat. I was thinking I would try the left hand drill bit to get it out. If that fails, trying to get at it from the backside. I have never tried the left hand bit idea.
Click to expand...

You might try from the backside. That end of the bolt may already have a concave nose that will help center the drill bit and avoid possibly damaging the aluminium bracket threads if drilling off-center. I would still suggest a left-hand drillbit since it might screw the bolt fragment out in the process.

Cheers,

TQ
 
The fragment probably isn't frozen since the bolt on the other fork came out easily once loosened. The end of the bolt is flat, not tapered, so I will try a punch to get a dead-center start for the bit. Thanks for your input, it is much appreciated! Hoping your feet are dry in Houston!
 
Yes. Very lucky! Watching what is going on in other parts of Houston and the Texas Gulf Coast, I can't help but think "there but for the Grace of God, go I"!!!

Send prayers or other positive thoughts!

Cheers,

TQ
 
Every time I have tried to use an easyout they snap on me then I need to work out a new solution to the problem
to remove a broken stud/bolt what I do is drill a hole in it a wee one to start with and then enlarge it as much as I can then hammer in a torx bit into the drilled hole and use a hand impact driver on the torx bit all the hammering frees up any crud on the threads
it may be that the torx bit will start to spin in the hole as it rounds off the metal (prevents the bit from snapping then use the next size up
Penetrating fluid 24 hours before also helps as does a fair bit of heat

Brian
 
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