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Red Key Lite stays on

Sometimes a little water will set up just enough corrossion to keep the voltage from going through... Pull & clean the fuses & maybe the relays too, clean & recoat with dielectric grease & reinstall.
 
Well it is the instrument fuse. It keeps blowing. I thought it was the switch on the handle bars, and I cleaned it really good. I did that and put a fuse in and it blew the instrument fues. So I took the outer shell off, and unplug pretty much most of what connections I could get unpluged and spayed air in the connectors and cleaned them the best I could. I don't have any of that dielectric grease. Not sure where to get it.

Anyway, once I did that i put a fuse back in the panel and it worked ok. lite and everything lite up. So I put the outer shell back on after hooking everything up, and turned on the swith so far so good. Then I turned on the switch on the handle bars and engine light came on. Good deal there. So I finish putting everything back together I put the side cover back on, turn on the switches and everything was working. No sooner I press the start switch, bang. All the instruments quit. Sure enough the instrument fuse is blown again. So now I am thinking it has to be an instrument has moisture. Is that a wrong assumption? And is there some sort of spray that will remove moisture from electrical components?
 
OK, It sounds like there is a short in the start circuit, which is taking out the Instrument fuse... Check at the start button, then the starter relay (Which is located at the fuse block), it's an "ice cube" small plug in device which controls current to the starter solenoid. The starter relay may have gotten water in it. See if you can remove it & blow it out. If water does come out consider replacing it. It's not too expensive around $12. Also dielectric grease can be purchased at your favorite auto parts store. Good luck.
 
OK, It sounds like there is a short in the start circuit, which is taking out the Instrument fuse... Check at the start button, then the starter relay (Which is located at the fuse block), it's an "ice cube" small plug in device which controls current to the starter solenoid. The starter relay may have gotten water in it. See if you can remove it & blow it out. If water does come out consider replacing it. It's not too expensive around $12. Also dielectric grease can be purchased at your favorite auto parts store. Good luck.

Ok you mean the starter button on the handle bars? The starter relay. Which side (sitting on the bike left or right side). I know where the fuse box is. It is on the left side sitting on the bike.
 
Start at the starter button on the handle bars to see if water is shorting the control circuit there, if all is OK there go to the starter control relay & check as I described, Refer to your shop manual for location as my bike is different. If you don't have one.... go purchase one, it's the best $58-60 you'll spend.
 
Pull the seat off and pull the wiring harness plugs apart blow them out with air and spray WD40 in the plugs and put the plugs back together. (WD40 water displacment 40)
 
Pull the seat off and pull the wiring harness plugs apart blow them out with air and spray WD40 in the plugs and put the plugs back together. (WD40 water displacment 40)

I am not saying WD40 won't work but a much much better choice for a spray cleaner/water repellent is a chemical called DE-OXIT 5. Once you use this stuff I promise you will NEVER look back. It is the best there is. Trust me on this.
 
As the others have stated, "divide and conquer" troubleshooting method is the best...try troubleshooting from the power source and fuse block and work back towards the instrument panel and fairing which is the tougher "end of the line" side. I generally do not like to use WD40 because it leaves a slightly oily (petrol based) residue which can attack certain plastics (insulators), only as a last resort. I usually use 100% ISO alcohol...mating the contacts several times, air drying and lube with dielectric grease (avalilable at HD dealer for $10 in large tube, or RV/Auto parts store for less. Good luck.
 
Ok I will give this a shot when I get home. I will keep ya'll posted on my findings. Alot of info here.

Something just came to mine is brake kleen. Would brake kleen remove water? It dries really quick. It also removes any grease and oil.
 
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A "good" thing to use in the old days was trichloroetylene (better known as "Tuner Wash" in the old TV biz, it is only used for Dry Cleaning as it is "hazardous to the Ozone layer" and is not legal to use here is SoCal. As Smitty says, contact cleaner also can attack certain plastics, so about the only thing you are left with is straight 100% ISO alcohol. Dielectric grease is "inert" and electrically "neutral" so basically keeps water and oxygen from the contacts. Beyond that I would recommend nothing else for now.
 
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