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Reassurance on Winterization

I would use a heavy mineral oil prior to storing the engine. Why? Because after a few weeks, synthetic oil will migrate to the lowest point of the engine leaving you to do a "dry" start when the time comes later. Mineral oil doesn't do that.
 
I think that is a myth about syn oils. Changed cam, lifters,timing chain and rocker arms in a small block chevy that had sat for over a year with Royal Purple 10W40 in it. There was oil hanging on everything. I know it ain't a HD but its a engine still sitting there for a long time.
wilks3
 
Hi all,

I was hoping for a little reasurrance about my winterization process - or maybe a good reason not to do what I planned. I keep the Streetglide in a heated room in my garage. I just had all three fluids replaced at 5,000 miles, and now have 6,600 miles on the clock. Spectro full synthetic in engine, Spectro in primary, and Spectro full sythetic in the trans. I got to thinking it did not make much sense to change the trans and primary for winterization, because I have only gone 1,600 miles on them, and they do not pick up the acids / contaminants that engine oil does. My plan was to change the engine oil with new Specto full sythetic, do all the other winterization stuff, and then hop on and ride come spring.

Anybody see any reason to change the primary and trans oil?

Thanks!
You are good to go. Don't change anything. Spectro makes quality lubricants. The bike is stored in good conditions( dry & heated. 45,50degrees?). It wouldn't hurt to change the engine oil in the spring, but now would not be prudent. Start the bike every couple weeks. Let it run about 10 minutes and shut it down. That keeps the parts lubricated and helps preserve the lubricant from stagnation.
 
You are good to go. Don't change anything. Spectro makes quality lubricants. The bike is stored in good conditions( dry & heated. 45,50degrees?). It wouldn't hurt to change the engine oil in the spring, but now would not be prudent. Start the bike every couple weeks. Let it run about 10 minutes and shut it down. That keeps the parts lubricated and helps preserve the lubricant from stagnation.

Not a good idea on an air cooled engine, better to leave it on a tender til Spring, Starting and running for short time will not burn off all the water vapors and acids will build up quicker JMO
 
I agree with Jack about starting an engine for short periods of time at lower temparatures. It should not be done.


Below is what the HD service manual says ...

WINTER LUBRICATION
In colder climates, the engine oil should be changed often. If motorcycle is used frequently for short trips, less than 15 miles (24 kilometers), in ambient temperatures below 60° F (16° C), oil change intervals should be reduced to 1500 miles (2400 kilometers). Motorcycles used only for short runs must have a thorough tank flush-out before new oil is put in. The tank flush-out should be performed by an authorized dealer or qualified technician.

NOTE
The further below freezing the temperature drops, the shorter the oil change interval should be.

Water vapor is a normal by-product of combustion in any engine. During cold weather operation, some of the water vapor condenses to liquid form on the cool metal surfaces inside the engine. In freezing weather this water will become slush or ice and, if allowed to accumulate too long, may block the oil lines and cause damage to the engine.

If the engine is run frequently and allowed to thoroughly warm up, most of this water will become vapor again and will be blown out through the crankcase breather. If the engine is not run frequently and allowed to thoroughly warm up, this water will accumulate, mix with the engine oil and form a sludge that is harmful to the engine.
Boy, that is a very complicated way of saying "don't start engine during storage. Once stopped should not be restarted until use or need".
 
Boy, that is a very complicated way of saying "don't start engine during storage. Once stopped should not be restarted until use or need".

Older service manuals wanted the oil tank flushed out with Kerosene, these bikes had poor at best filters:s Pans , Knuckles and some Shovel motors
 
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Yes it is long winded. :s Our friends in Milwaukee wrote that one.

When they have that much to say about Winter Lubrication (Winter Operation) you have to then apply it toward your Winter Storage thinking and when you do, you can see why running the motor is bad if you don't intend to ride it so as to thoroughly warm the oil.

In another thread it was mentioned that cranking it over without allowing it to start would push lubrication thru the cold motor and that might be good for winter storage.

His bike is in a heated room. I've been starting mine for years. NEVER ONE ENGINE PROBLEM. TRUCKS, CARS, BIKES. I live in Pittsburgh and it gets cold here. Let the oil get hot. Let the engine get hot. Maybe its because of the metal treatment products I use. If its well below freezing, I might agree not starting the bike. My experience is that it's far better than letting an engine sit for 3-5 months. Bad things happen when things sit too long. Don't care what anybody says about that. JMO. But, it's ur bike...
 
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