Rear Brake Light Switch
- Thread starter bikernick
- Start date
smithbrl
New Member
I just had mine replaced on my 09 Ultra for the second time. Bike has 45,000 mi.
The HD rep just happened to be there and overheard my conversation with the service writer. He pulled me aside and said they had some bad switches and HD is working on a more reliable design. He told me to bring the bike back if it failed again and they would cover it under warranty until they get the bugs out of it.
So even though the bike is no longer under factory warranty, the rear brake light switch is.
The HD rep just happened to be there and overheard my conversation with the service writer. He pulled me aside and said they had some bad switches and HD is working on a more reliable design. He told me to bring the bike back if it failed again and they would cover it under warranty until they get the bugs out of it.
So even though the bike is no longer under factory warranty, the rear brake light switch is.
Hoople
Account Removed
That means you will be back for a third time because they are still "working" on a better switch. I had a feeling that was the case because way too many late model bikes had the same issue. I did not even know mine was bad because it would only flicker every now and then on it's own.
Hoople
Account Removed
As it turns out, sure enough the mylar barrier (orange disk) that is between the brake fluid and the electrical switch was ruptured and that allowed brake fluid to come in contact with the electrical portion (contacts) of the switch. The portion I circled in red shows the burning of the oil where the switch makes contact with the electrical pins. Since there is also a glue seal between the plastic switch portion and the steel body, fluid does not oozes from the body when it goes bad. My guess would be that several people will experience this problem if they are using the same switch (part #72026-08).
Before I changed the switch I noticed I had to apply more pressure (foot pressure) than I felt should be necessary for the tail light to come on. Now with the new Accel switch, using light pressure, the tail light comes on. It works perfect.
Before I changed the switch I noticed I had to apply more pressure (foot pressure) than I felt should be necessary for the tail light to come on. Now with the new Accel switch, using light pressure, the tail light comes on. It works perfect.
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Jack Klarich
Guest
Maybe the DOT should check this out
Marcelo Knust
New Member
Hello guys,
Would you please help me with the Accel part number that replaces the original #72026-08?
Thanks!
Marcelo
Brazil
Well done Hoop...where did you get the Accel brake switch? :a
Hoople
Account Removed
I used an Accel switch along with a Russell Bango bolt adapter that has a port for a switch. After seeing the inside of the switch, I wanted to get away from the 2 in 1 combination switch Harley uses because I did not want to go through this again in another year or until HD gets it right. Both parts I found in a J& P catalog. The Accel Switch was part #240-693 & the Russell adapter was #240-723. The fit was perfect and no modification to the electrical wires was needed. It was plug and Play. I will now see what the service life on this new switch is compared to the HD.
If you want to test your current switch, place an ohm meter across it and put your meter in the 20 meg/ohm scale. The scale MUST be in the highest range. If you read anything other than infinity (while having NO foot pressure on switch), your switch contacts have brake fluid on them and it is only a matter of time. Mine read 2 meg ohms when OFF which is a dead give-away something is wrong inside the switch. In actual use, the switch worked correctly "most" of the time,,but as you can see it was toast inside.
If you want to test your current switch, place an ohm meter across it and put your meter in the 20 meg/ohm scale. The scale MUST be in the highest range. If you read anything other than infinity (while having NO foot pressure on switch), your switch contacts have brake fluid on them and it is only a matter of time. Mine read 2 meg ohms when OFF which is a dead give-away something is wrong inside the switch. In actual use, the switch worked correctly "most" of the time,,but as you can see it was toast inside.
A buddy mentioned how my taillight seemed so bright while riding. Found the rear brake switch intermittently staying on, as in sticking. No leakage. Just adding my appreciating for this post. Might not have recognized a 2 Megohm resistance as a fault for an open switch and felt that to be 'practically' open! 
Thanks Hoople.
Thanks Hoople.
BlueThunderHD
Member
Mine went out at 14,500 , 2009 FLHT