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Question on loose compensator bolt

I dont know what is going on with the loctite thing perhaps you should call hd and ask them why the part has the wrong loctite on it and if they say it is the correct stuff ask them for an exchange of service manual with the correct info in it as you have paid good money for both one has to be wrong and if there is an update to the part why is there no note with the part to explain the update
Just the thoughts on the sort of thing i would do on a being difficult day

Brian
 
Well then yellow it will stay - thanks Hoople. Yes you would think an 18" bar w/ 2ft pipe and 200lbs of leverage coming down on top of that would do the job. Been a long while since I've had to get this mechnically involved with my transportation machinery, so everything's a discovery process at this point.

On cleaning the internal threads, what exactly is the best way to do that? Clean up the old bolt and thread it in/out a few times - or a good stiff wired brush dipped in cleaner....or how would you do it....I do know you want both mating surfaces as clean as possible to get maximum bonding...thanks
 
fin_676 said:
I dont know what is going on with the loctite thing perhaps you should call hd and ask them why the part has the wrong loctite on it and if they say it is the correct stuff ask them for an exchange of service manual with the correct info in it as you have paid good money for both one has to be wrong and if there is an update to the part why is there no note with the part to explain the update
Just the thoughts on the sort of thing i would do on a being difficult day

Brian
Click to expand...

I hear ya Brian - I have a tendency to overthink things, but they're definitely keeping me on my toes. but I hear ya, blue, red, yellow :newsmile040:
 
fin_676 said:
I dont know what is going on with the loctite thing perhaps you should call hd and ask them why the part has the wrong loctite on it and if they say it is the correct stuff ask them for an exchange of service manual with the correct info in it as you have paid good money for both one has to be wrong and if there is an update to the part why is there no note with the part to explain the update
Just the thoughts on the sort of thing i would do on a being difficult day

Brian
Click to expand...

Brain, Sometimes I wonder if they "double talk" us with info because they really don't know themselves. They change specs and vendors along the way. I think what may also happen is they "vendor out" the specs for a replacement bolt to some company in china with a spec of "high Strength" loctite on it. The vendor in china puts their stolen, clowned, copied, "locktite" on the bolt but it happens to be yellow. Who really knows.

I agree with you. We paid for and deserve the correct answers but I don't think anyone really knows what the bottom line is.

There is no 1 and only 1 correct answer. We have to work through these types of questions on our own.
 
To your point Brian, I guess with it being close to 2011 they could have made changes to the comp sprocket assembly procedure and with my bikes documentation being 2008, just not current as to what they recommend doing now procedurally. The HD mechanics probly get the service bulletins on changes, and not us shadetree mechanics...who knows but probably need to keep that in the back of my mind as I get more into working on this bike.

EIDT - and what Hoop said.
 
trvlr said:
On cleaning the internal threads, what exactly is the best way to do that? Clean up the old bolt and thread it in/out a few times - or a good stiff wired brush dipped in cleaner....or how would you do it....I do know you want both mating surfaces as clean as possible to get maximum bonding...thanks
Click to expand...

When I say cleaning the threads I don't mean chasing them but really mean cleaning them of any oil or grease. Using a none residual brake clean (some have TERRIBLE left behind residual) on the inside threads and then hit it with compressed air. That should do the trick. Do that a couple of times and you should be ready to go.

I have found that "Wearever" brake parts cleaner Part # W7340 is really nice stuff. I could not live without that can of spray cleaner. Place the red pin-point hose on the end and flush out that blind crank hole. Hit it with some compressed air to dry it out and install your new bolt. Torque it to the proper spec and your done..

That compensator is not going to fall off any time soon.
 
Aye Hoople i understand that they will source from different manufacturers and may get variances but perhaps if their phone lines got busy with a lot of calls asking for an explanation then perhaps they would stick a note in with the part or get everything the same in the first place
i have been caught out in the past with a head gasket first thing the manual said was ensure the o ring is fitted should have read throw o ring away when using updated head gaskets
as i have a 3-4 week delay waiting for parts and fine summer weather only lasts for between 2 and 5 days for the year i didnt need a change of spec on parts without an explination
och well live and learn and always examin new parts and compare with the old

Brian
 
fin_676 said:
Aye Hoople i understand that they will source from different manufacturers and may get variances but perhaps if their phone lines got busy with a lot of calls asking for an explanation then perhaps they would stick a note in with the part or get everything the same in the first place
Click to expand...

Great point. Having a note with the new part would explain it all. The thing is, we don't know if an internal ECM or engineering change bulletin was sent to the service department of the dealerships explaining of the change.

I know it sounds "sneaky" but I know for a Fact that some companies almost make it a point to include type-o's in there service manuals only to follow them up with internal service bulletins. If you don't work for the company, you would never learn of the correction. It's one of their ways to encourage you to bring your "item" in and not try and fix it yourself. Yamaha is a perfect example of a company who I believe practices this "mistake". And I can back up this statement with Fact. How can their bikes be so perfect and without error and their service manual be so full of mistakes? (and they ARE) Their QC stops with the bikes,, and their service manuals are not proof read? I don't believe it. To me it is deliberate. But that is just my opinion.

It was done ALL the time in the TV's and entertainment equipment business when I was in it. There were so many changes and type-o's in the service manuals, you did not know what to believe. The new replacement parts came with no updates and told you nothing about the "new" ways to install and adjust them. But if you were an authorized service center, you had a ton of correction bulletins.

Remember, these manuals and instructions were written for internal use only and for people at the authorized service centers. They were not really published for us weekend mechanics.
 
I wonder how many mechanics actually read all the service bulletins and amend all their service manuals to ensure they are working to the latest trend unless however when they look the part up on the system it gives note of any changes to the procedure of use of the part
If that is the case then the parts guy will get the notes for that part

Brian
 
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