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Progressive Touring Link Chassis Stabilizer Install Question/Resulting Exhaust Leak Issue

Doc, would it be possible to remove the stud and replace with a bolt? Not seeing your problem I'm just thinking out loud.
 
Dr, is it possible to remove the stud and replace it with a bolt? Not being able to see your situation I'm just thinking out loud.

As far as putting a small dimple in the header to gain more room is possible. I once had the same problem on a race car and I ever so lightly put a small dimple with a hammer and it worked. A small dimple should not cause any exhaust flow issues.
 
With just a wee bit of persistence and not giving up you will get it done it may need a few attempts approaching from different angles but there will be a way to do it just hang in there
The more trouble the job is the greater the feeling of satisfaction is when you are finished

Brian
 
Dr, is it possible to remove the stud and replace it with a bolt? Not being able to see your situation I'm just thinking out loud.

As far as putting a small dimple in the header to gain more room is possible. I once had the same problem on a race car and I ever so lightly put a small dimple with a hammer and it worked. A small dimple should not cause any exhaust flow issues.

I believe the stud protrudes from, and is an integral part of, the cylinder itself. In other words, it's not removable. I don't think this is the issue. The problem is the way the nut almost touches the header so that there's no room to get a socket or any kind of wrench on it.

With just a wee bit of persistence and not giving up you will get it done it may need a few attempts approaching from different angles but there will be a way to do it just hang in there
The more trouble the job is the greater the feeling of satisfaction is when you are finished

Brian

I've tried every possible angle and had several other people look at it to verify what I'm seeing. The problem isn't the angle as much as it is the lack of clearance for a socket.

I'll try and get some light up there and post a photo later.
 
Here's a picture of the nut right up against the header. Rear header pipe at the top, cylinder head to the right, crossover pipe in the background. The viewing angle is from the right side of the bike looking up a bit from the area of the base of the cylinder right where the pushrod tube is.
 

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I just learned something new at your expense. I know my dad who was a mechanic all his life always found a way in a tough situation. I've seen bent wrenches and ground side wall on sockets in his tool box just to make it fit. Good luck.


Seeing your pic is similar to a problem I once had. I'd do a minor mod to the pipe and put a dimple so you can get the socket on.
 
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I just learned something new at your expense. I know my dad who was a mechanic all his life always found a way in a tough situation. I've seen bent wrenches and ground side wall on sockets in his tool box just to make it fit. Good luck.

I was thinking about that option as well.
 
The factory uses electric or pneumatic tools on the line so we know that when everything is aligned properly, there will be just enough room for a socket to fit completely on the nut. Make sure the rest of your exhaust is loose enough that you have enough wiggle room to get at that nut. The bracket above the trans. is the one that gives the most slack. That nut on my bike is very close, but I can use a std. 3/8" wobble socket. The stud is removeable by double nutting it to back out, with the slight possibility of snapping it off in the head (just to give you more to worry about). When removed, you could use an allen head bolt in that spot.
 
Make sure the rest of your exhaust is loose enough that you have enough wiggle room to get at that nut. The bracket above the trans. is the one that gives the most slack.

Thanks, Pete - I'll try to remember that when it's time to reassemble after I get the new gaskets in.
 
The stud is removeable by double nutting it to back out,

Thanks Pete, I had mine out before that's why I floated the idea.
 
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