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Progressive Touring Link Chassis Stabilizer Install Question/Resulting Exhaust Leak Issue

PB blaster and some heat may be required on the exhaust joints and fasteners
Heat on the difficult bolt to soften the Loctite an impact driver of some type may help but applying the load to all corners of the bolt head evenly is important so sometimes a t bar on the end of the extension is a good way to go

Brian
 
OK, bought a heat gun for the stubborn bolt and I'm about half way through removing the exhaust components I need to get out of the way. I really had to laugh when I went back and watched the install video from Progressive - with a perfectly straight face he claims it's a 1 hour job with average tools. HAR HAR - not if you have to get the exhaust out of the way first. Maybe this is only an issue with my year bike or just my model - appears to be a Road King in the video.
 
Dr. Dolittle said:
OK, bought a heat gun for the stubborn bolt and I'm about half way through removing the exhaust components I need to get out of the way. I really had to laugh when I went back and watched the install video from Progressive - with a perfectly straight face he claims it's a 1 hour job with average tools. HAR HAR - not if you have to get the exhaust out of the way first. Maybe this is only an issue with my year bike or just my model - appears to be a Road King in the video.
Click to expand...

I feel your pain, in my experience 1 hour means 3!:bigsmiley30:
 
Another quick question for everyone.

The Service Manual says to use new Torca clamps in all locations where they've been removed. Why are they a one time use item? Is there anything I can look for that would give me the green light to reuse one or all of them?
 
Update:

So I was merrily removing all the exhaust components (had removed all heat shields, loosened all the Torca clamps, removed bolts from brackets, and sprayed some PB Blaster on the pipe connecting joints) when I came to a brilliant conclusion. I only needed to loosen/remove enough components on the right side to actually get a socket on the problem bolt. Thank goodness this thought hit me before I had the entire bike disassembled! Hey, I never claimed to be the sharpest tool in the shed.

So...I only ended up having to remove the right slip on muffler, crossover pipe, and rear header flange at the cylinder. This allowed me to rotate the rear header pipe and nudge it down about 1/2 inch. Got the Tour Link Stabilizer totally installed in less than an hour from that point.

One more funny (maybe) anecdote. The Service Manual says that to remove the exhaust flange from the cylinder you use an impact wrench with a long, 1/2 inch swivel socket. While I was jamming my fingers into the confined space and trying to ensure a good fit of the socket on the nut, I realized it was moving a bit. These nuts were barely more than finger tight! They've never been touched as long as I've had the bike so they've been that way for over 6 years! Geesh!

Well, tomorrow I'll tackle putting everything back together again.
 
Any soot on the flange? I'm surprised you didn't hear/have a exhaust leak. Some people have all the luck.:p
 
The nuts on the studs that hold the exhaust flange in place can get loose just with the heating and cooling of the exhaust and a wee bit of vibration however they can also get very difficult to get off sometimes a double nut locked together can help hold them in place and some copper grease on the studs helps them to not be there permanently

Brian
 
Throw those captive nuts away and put lock washers, new regular type hex nuts with anti sieze:s
 
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