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Problem with my EVO oiling

If the pump is working the light should go out in 30 sec. or less. The oil press. switch is mounted right on the pump so it gets pressure pretty quick even though no circulation thru the filter as yet. Sounds like a sheered key to me. If you tear down the pump and nose cone pay close attention to pump alignment per your manual, it will be the same.
tourbox
 
Update on the oiling issue.
I removed the nose cone to what was going on in there and found the breather gear (plastic) was missing a few teeth. Found bits of the teeth and what was left of the shim washer laying inthe bottom of the cam chest.....
I will be the first to admit that, although I am reasonably mechanically inclined, this job was not for me. I talked with my neighbor and said he should take it the shop to have this repaired. I went with him and talked to our local shop about our problem and they told me that they have seen this before but not alot. The stock breather gear is plastic from factory but, doesnt give much problem. He is going back with a steel gear. They going to check out the oil pump to make sure everything in there is okay.
Thanks again for all the help you guys have given.
- Mike
:hii
 
Mike,

The steal gear is the replacement as Plastic ones Did have the Occasional problem of the gear breaking off a tooth.

I modified the squirrel cage Intake area by grinding the case out and put a Radius on the front where the oil was picked up... one slow pick-up area that HD designed poorly in my book. But that was long ago, 97 was my ride...:D

The other thing that I would recommend ON next change; is to Bleed a little OUT the drain tube AFTER filling tank with new oil..... There CAN be an AIR Lock to the pump at times that Can Cause the oil Not to Flow... Drain Just enough out the drain tube to clear air out...

AND remember, always check the oil when put away AFTER a ride Hot... FULL when put away, not seeing any on the floor...It has to be full.. USUALLY the oil tanks up high on the side (sportsters and softails) will drain a LOT Down into the engine... Sitting over night my Sport is WAY Low in the oil tank, looking 80% empty... BUT FULL when checked after last ride...... SO when it is first started, NO Blipping the throttle and in about a minute or so of Normal warming (Evo's need that warming) at an IDLE the oil will Pump back into the tank... ESPECIALLY now that the return Squirrel is there and Working.

When you changed oil, the oil was Down into the engine sump and I'd bet it never got a Full oil change because of that.

Careful on Over Filling... and do the above running then check it properly AFTER it is repaired...

Too much will show up and maybe over flow with the Plug out of the tank...

Take Mama's turkey baster and remove Over full condition... Shussssh,,,,, don't get caught...

PS....
I know it IS Not your bike BUT let the owner Know what you Learned here...

signed....BUBBIE
 
Agree with what Bubbie said, the plastic breather was a poor design, it caused scoring inside the cam chest as well. The screen can be highly modified to evacuate more oil quickly to take drag off the flywheels and get the oil on return path quicker:s
The overhead tappet screen should be checked and cleaned also
 
Thanks Bubbie and Jack for the knowledge.
I will pass this info on to my buddy and I will mull on this also. Mine has just under 80k and may consider changing mine to a steel gear as well. I had to put a clutch in mine at around 55k so went ahead and changed my leaky base gaskets, cleaned up the cylinders and reringed, also had the vavles cleaned up so, at 100k I'll probably do the same thing to the top end and then change out the breather gear at that point.
Thanks again to everyone

- Mike:
 
Remember Mike,

That Gear needs to be timed correctly to remove the oil...

signed....BUBBIE
 
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