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Primary Seal Leaking

Each to his own but I wouldn't put a drill bit near the main shaft. One slip, main shaft dinged and it will leak forever. Drilling and using screws is OK for all the other seals but the main shaft/fifth gear seal is in a tough place to safely drill. Small bit that will easily break in a bind, drilling at an angle in a confined work area and a pretty thin target; not worth the risk IMHO.
 
I forgot to mention that the instructions that come with the S&S IPB race instruct the installer to continue pushing the race until the torque applied is either 35# or 45#; forget which. As I mentioned previously, be very careful as I have split the first one I installed a few years back by following those instructions. You will likely know when the taper hits the main shaft; the pressure necessary to move the race will suddenly increase. That is when you proceed with caution and measure the gap between the race and the main shaft/fifth gear seal. Or you can slip on the inner primary, rotate the main shaft and you can see the line where the IPB seal is making contact with the IPB race. If there is contact, your golden.
 
When I installed the S&S IPB on mine it slid all the way on and there was a distinctive stop to it's forward motion. Then torque to spec. I cant recall what that spec is either but it is in the instructions.
 
Bodeen said:
When I installed the S&S IPB on mine it slid all the way on and there was a distinctive stop to it's forward motion. Then torque to spec. I cant recall what that spec is either but it is in the instructions.
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That was the point of my previous post. When the forward motion stops, check the gap between the race and the main shaft/fifth gear seal, or slip the primary case on and see if the IPB seal is making contact. If all is good, forget the torque spec. I, and others, have split the S&S race when torqued to the spec in the instruction. I have installed many without torquing to spec for that reason. So, if you feel lucky, torque to spec but it's not necessary.:s JMHO.
 
dolt said:
That was the point of my previous post. When the forward motion stops, check the gap between the race and the main shaft/fifth gear seal, or slip the primary case on and see if the IPB seal is making contact. If all is good, forget the torque spec. I, and others, have split the S&S race when torqued to the spec in the instruction. I have installed many without torquing to spec for that reason. So, if you feel lucky, torque to spec but it's not necessary.:s JMHO.
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Yep, I concur.
 
Sorry it took so long to finish this up but I got involved in some other projects.
I had made a socket to remove the pulley nut and it worked great.
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I had to make a tool to hold the pulley from turning when I removed the pulley. I turned the shifter lever around and used the bolt head of the shifter lever to hold the pulley in place when I installed the pulley nut. I didn't have to buy the special tool for that step. What I went with was I bought a sealed bearing, that doesn't require an inner race, and new seal and went that way. I replaced the seals on the trans and the shifter seal. I have about 50 mi on it so far but no leak. If it's leaking it might take longer than that for the oil to run down the inner primary housing. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the help and ideas.
 
I have replaced the bearing and the seal twice using a piece of 5/8-11 all thread and a couple big flat washers. I use a 3/4 drive socket that fit the o.d. of the bearing and the o.d. of the seal. haven't had any trouble since I replaced my bad trans (long story bank in apr. 10). I used a vise to hold the inner housing with some wood to block it and just cranked on the nuts to back it out and install it. if you think about it, it isn't too hard.
 
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