Primary Oil Level Way Over Full

Discussion in 'Transmission' started by Vibratinharley, Apr 13, 2008.

  1. Vibratinharley

    Vibratinharley Junior Member

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    :panic:panic HELP!!! I have a problem with 90 FLHS evo 1340 . I decided to install easy boy clutch lever because my 08 is so easy to pull that it makes my 90 feel like you need two hands to squeeze it. Anyway, I removed clutch adjustment cover so I could loosen clutch adjuster and when I removed bolts for inspection cover it was way overfull with oil. ( this explains why bike was so hard to find neutral) I am the only one who services this bike and it wasn't ovefull when I put it away. Trans level is fine. SOOOoooo, How is the Engine oil getting in the primary ? It has to be engine oil cause engine oil was low and it don't leak oil and it don't burn oil. Sumptin tells me this has sumptin to do with engine Sumping. I am thinking maybe it blew out engine seal and it is leaking into primary. Anybody ever come across this? What do I have to do to fix it?
     
  2. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    There's a seal in behind the alternator (main shaft seal) that if that goes the engine oil will find it's way into the primary because of the pressure differential between them. One other thought is could you have forgotten to drain the primary before your last service and added the new oil on top of the old oil? It's happened before.

    Before ripping into it, I would drain the primary , refill it with the proper amount for your bike ( you can even reuse the primary oil for now after measuring it) and top off the engine oil to be sure they are both filled to the right level and put a few miles on it , then recheck the levels again. You may find the answer to your problems doing this, if not, get out the tools.
     
  3. Vibratinharley

    Vibratinharley Junior Member

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    I am so absolutely careful about changing oil and levels and I put in Amsoil and It was perfectly clean and oil that came out was dirty and definately looked like primary oil mixed with engine oil.
    Glider,
    Do you think seal blew out because of pressure on crankcase due to oil getting past that check valve you told me about the other day? Also, I put new cylinders and pistons less than 10,000 miles ago and I noticed that rear base gasket is leaking and it wasn't before I put it away for the winter. Pressure in crankcase cause this too?
    One more thing, How much of engine do I have to take apart to replace this seal? I had inner and outer primary all apart last year when I rebuilt transmission. I don't want to deal with this now. Maybe try some STP stop leak??? Just kidding.

    :bigsmiley30:
     
  4. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    It doesn't take much running to get the primary oil dirty first off due to the clutches in there. Excess pressure could be the culprit here from the check ball problem you had, that's why I mentioned to drain and refill and check it then before tearing into it. If you had the inner and outer off, you were just about there then. You had the primary chain off if you did the trans no doubt, the only thing more to remove is the alternator and the seal is behind there.

    EDIT

    Didn't mean to imply that you had to remove the inner primary to get at this seal. If you remove both chain sprockets with the chain and compensator assembly, you should be able to get to it then.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2008
  5. Vibratinharley

    Vibratinharley Junior Member

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    Thanks so much for your help Glider. I will post what I find later on in the week. I am glad I have another bike to ride or I would still be in the garage working. I had enough for today.
     
  6. Vibratinharley

    Vibratinharley Junior Member

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    Seal is $3.00 from dealer. I am glad I am doing labor myself and I am installing an automatic primary chain adjusting kit and new stator and rotor while I am in there as I have seen them go bad on bikes with less miles than this has and I don't want to have to take this apart again.
     
  7. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Doesn't it frost you all the work just for that $3 seal?

    What primary adjuster are you using?

    JMHO, I would stay with the factory one. After the initial breakin which happened many years back for you on this bike, they require very little maintenance and are rather trouble free unlike some of the self adjusting ones.
     
  8. Vibratinharley

    Vibratinharley Junior Member

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    I had bought one on ebay a while ago. It is made by Hayden I think. But it is not the hydraulic one. It is the one that is spring loaded. It has been sitting on my garage shelf waiting for me to install for over a year but you are right as I have had no problems with factory one. I was just thinking that it would make ride a little smoother in regards to play in chain because even when adjusted right it is still slack in some spots.
     
  9. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    The Hayden M6 is only spring loaded where the HB125 is spring and hydraulic to take the bounce out. Like mentioned above IMO, leave it on the shelf.:s

    The springs have been known to break in the Hayden unit. Maybe it's just me but if it ain't broke, don't fix it till it is broke.:D
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2008
  10. Vibratinharley

    Vibratinharley Junior Member

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    Here is some pics of where I left off last night.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This is all cleaned up ready to install new $3.00 seal I will be picking up at HD today.

    [​IMG]

    I agree Glider, The old adjuster and pad for primary chain looks like it is hardly worn at all and has lots of life left. Why fix what ain't broke!!!