Primary goes out at 25k miles FLHTCU

Discussion in 'Transmission' started by 240gordie, Jul 14, 2017.

  1. 240gordie

    240gordie Member

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    I need some help on this one. I have a 2010 FLHTCU with 25 K , the primary bearing is making a thrashing sound. Harley Tec said it was going out. I am going to perform the trans bearing and primary bearings and seal reinstalls. My mind bender is why did it go out in 25K , the reading is pointing to the primary chain slack adjuster. It gets to tight and put excessive pressure on the primary bearing. I have been looking at the baker chain tensioner. Should I install the Baker chain tensioner and the high tourque primary bearing and seal or just stay with the Harley stock. Any ideas appreciated . I have done all maintenance myself to the book. I am a mechanic by trade.
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Breeze3at

    Breeze3at Well-Known Member

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    If you use the engine a lot for braking, the tensioner will ratchet too tight. Even one hard event will do it. The Baker has not gotten as good of reviews for the newer ('07 up) as the original ones. They seem to have a lot of pressure also. I have read of several that spot weld the adjuster with a small amount of chain slack. Just my opinion.
     
  3. 240gordie

    240gordie Member

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    Thanks for the reason why it does get to tight. I do have a shift down at times that is strong, the rein harts sound very nice with a good down shift once in awhile. Is there another chain tensioner that can make sence, or do I just need to stop down shifting ? Do you know anything about the Baker bearing?
     
  4. dolt

    dolt Senior Member

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    The newer style adjuster does indeed make the chain very tight on many of our bikes. One answer is after-market tensioners like the Hayden M6-BT07 and/or the one from SoWest which is popular too. Another is to tack weld the OEM auto tensioner where so it maintains proper tension and cannot tighten up.

    I understand that the outer primary has to come off to adjust a manual adjuster but most auto adjusters recommend checking the adjuster at 20-25K miles which also requires removing the outer primary. In my experience, unless drag racing, a manual adjuster, unless the chain or shoe is new, once seated to the shoe and adjusted properly maintains proper adjustment for many miles and is totally dependent on the rate of shoe wear. I would prefer a manual adjuster and pulling the outer primary every 20-25K miles to check tension and shoe wear than have to replace the inner primary bearing, race or clutch hub bearing. I would go with a manual or have the OEM welded.;)

    As for the Baker Hi-Torque bearing and seal, I would stay with OEM hardware. Mixed reviews on the Baker tensioner; some have had success but just as many others have had issues. I have no experience with either.:confused:
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2017
  5. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    I converted all my recent bikes ('91 Dyna, '03 UC, '11 HSC '12 UC) over to the Hayden M6 tensioners for the particular model year. I like the logic of a dynamic tensioner system.

    Cheers,

    TQ
     
  6. 240gordie

    240gordie Member

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    Dolt, Thank for your responses I needed a boost to get going in the right direction. Like you I would prefer to do my maintenance and adjust the tension every 20 k or so than going through a rebuild like I am now. I do think it is from the chain tensioner. And I did down shift hard at times. Which manual tensioner do you prefer?
    I did ck out Hayden and will look at SoWest now. I will also head your advise on the Baker bearing.
     
  7. dolt

    dolt Senior Member

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    There are mixed reviews on all the manual tensioners; some swear by the Hayden and some claim bad experience. If I was to try one, it would either be the Hayden or the SE manual tensioner which the MoCo started offering as a replacement because so many were having your issue. Not a lot of information available on the Southwest tensioner but have read that some are using it with no issues. I would probably opt for the SE unit even though it may cost a bit more than the other two.

    I don't have any hands on experience with the Baker bearing. If you wanted to go that routed and eliminate the IPB race, there is an SK bearing that will work and is much cheaper. If you are interested, I will dig in my files for the bearing PN. It does require some light honing of the race to fit properly on the main shaft. I have just had good experience with the OEM IPB and seal but have replace the IPB race with the S&S race which is tapered and cannot walk in on the main shaft/fifth gear seal; not sure if the S&S race was ever made available for the later models. The OEM IPB race with a bit of green Loctite to keep it in place has worked for me as well and a cheaper option.
     
  8. 240gordie

    240gordie Member

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    Dolt,
    It took me a bit to get back to you, the wife and I purchased a clean used boat this week. I was going through it and installing new wheel bearings, little rusty. We went fishing today in a volcano caldera called Paulina crater, fine lake to I think 300'. Did well and the boat did great. I'm ready to get back to the bike.
    I think if I resolve the chain over tension problem the OEM primary bearing will be fine. I for sure want to change the tensioner. I don't see much info on the SW HOT BIKES one but I like the idea of hydraulic benefits.u. You say in your last note the SE would be the one for you. Who is SE.
    Dolt, I got to tell you you are the best, taking your time to help me. I am particular as well as you are and want to make it the best I can. Thank you, I am sure I will have some more questions along the way.
    I have been in the RV biz for 50 years now, if you need anything please let me know. There is not a job I have not done.
    240Gordie
     
  9. fin_676

    fin_676 Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    SE would be screaming eagle which is Harley Davidson tuning parts

    Brian
     
  10. dolt

    dolt Senior Member

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    This one.
     

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