Poor Boy Stator Job

Discussion in 'Transmission' started by marknett, Dec 4, 2011.

  1. marknett

    marknett Active Member

    I thought I would document My stator change out on my 1996 Sportster 1200 c ..

    Keep in mind this job will be done poor boy style and I'm sure it would go alot easier with the proper tools , but sometimes you gotta do with what's avaliable.

    Location : In my driveway which is gravel

    Jack : 2 old brake rotors off a 1994 Mercury Gran Marquis and a 1 x 4

    Help : The old lady holding the bike steady on occation

    First thing I will do is take the motorcycle down the road for a little run just to
    heat up the primary oil.

    Next I put the bike on my homemade Jack
    and drain the primary oil out.

    Now the manual says to disconnect the battery . Also go ahead and unplug from the regulator.
    These connections are in the front off the bike located at the down tubes . One is a round plug with 2 prongs .
    That is the wire for the stator.

    Now I loosen off the clutch cable adjustment as loose as it will go

    Now I take off my shifting lever and since I have forward controls
    I don't have to remove my foot peg .......

    Ok now we can start getting to the good stuff:

    Take off the primary inspection cover

    Now is the time to look under the bottom of the primary cover
    and break the jam nut on the primary chain adjuster.
    loosen the jam and back out the adjuster allen all the way loose.
    It should bottom out against the primary case.

    Now we have to get the clutch cable off of the clutch basket.
    When you remove the inspection plate , there should be an o-ring
    so be careful . Next remove the spring and retainer nut.
    Now screw in the allen screw and the piece that the clutch cable is
    connected to should start coming out toward you . there a retainer nut that you should be able to screw out from the allen screw and the assembly should come off. Note , this does not remove the clutch basket. We are making progress now !!

    Now we take out all the primary cover allen bolts . Then carefully ease the primary off .. Pay close attention to the gasket and the shifter seal . The gasket on my bike wasn't an o-ring style so I will be replacing it with a new one .

    Now we have the Primary cover off .

    Next step is to break the nut that holds the primary sprocket on.
    This sprocket is attacked to the rotor for your stator .
    They make a tool to put in the chain against the sprocket to keep it from turning .... I don't have one . Back to poor boy tools
    The nut is an 1 1/8' . A deep well 6 point socket and a 1/2" break over bar is what I used .

    I got the old lady to help steady the bike on my homemade jack and rolled up a kitchen dish rag and placed it under
    the chain so it would bind and keep the motor from turning . There's
    My poor boy tool . The primary nut is a standard left-hand thread which means you turn it counter-clockwise to loosen. I had to put the
    breakover bar on it and give it a couple raps with the 4 pound hammer . ( The bar not the nut ) .We now have the nut off...

    The manual says to remove the clutch basket and the primary sprocket and chain all as 1 unit .... I DIDN"T DO THAT

    I pulled the rotor and sprocket ( remember they are bolted together)
    out as far as they would go . remember without the primary nut on the only thing holding the rotor on is the pull of the magnets to the stator . With a little effort and the bike in neutral to give me max chain slack , I was able to get the rotor and sprocket off without taking off the clutch basket .... There was a little of this though . ...

    Now I can see the Stator finally !!

    Now let us the discuss the damage found.

    I read on here about the magnets coming loose from the rotor.
    That was the case on mine ... Three of the six magnets had came loose . Luckily thanks to this forum , I was concerned about this so when gathering my parts up for this job , I decided to change the rotor while I was in there ... Good Call !!!!!

    There are guys on this forum who have fixed there rotors with epoxy
    but since I was gonna replace it anyway, I don't have to deal with that . Now for the stator inspection . I don't think my stator is bad . I was getting minimal charging of about 12.8 volts when revving. I did see a little damage where a magnet had hit . But I have a new stator and you better believe that I'm gonna change it while I'm in
    there.. Next removing the stator .....

    The stator is held on with 4 allen screws. These come from the factory with red loc tite on them. It is recommended to replace these
    with new screws and I agree .They are pretty small screws and do not cost much .. Remove these screws and there are 2 flathead screws that hold the wire down from the stator . The wires have a built in rubber grommet that inserts into the casing of the motor.
    I took a punch and my trusty 4 pound hammer and from the other side off the bike , lightly , I repeat lightly tapped the grommet back through toward the stator. slip the stator off ... .
    Now the wires . Since we unplugged the stator from the regulator when we first started ( I'll go back and add those steps ) we should be able to just pull the wire through right? Wrong . First things first , lets get our wire cutter and cut all the plastic wire ties that are securing the wire to the frame .Not look at how the wire is routed . OUCH !!! this is gonna be tough to do . Well This is as far as I got today . I'll update more tomorrow ...

    While we are waiting for the sun to shine again , I thought I give you a cost on the parts

    Stator for this bike is a 22 amp ranging from $40 TO $90 Acoording to the brand name

    The rotor comes with the new sprocket attached and is sold as a unit Cost is $140

    The srews that hold stator on comes in a set of 4 with loctite on them $5

    The Primary gasket ranges from $10 for just the gasket or you can get the kit with new o-rings for shifter snd inspection coversfor $18

    The primary holds 32 ounces which means you need to buy 1 quart according to what you use
    average price is $6 to $15 per quart

    My cost is gonna be a lot cheaper than listed because I found a deal on e-bay
    which contained a lot purchase of o.e.m .harley parts still in the box.

    The lot had 2 stators for my bike
    the rotor for my bike
    2 rotors for 1340 engines
    1 stator for 1100 ironhead

    I won the auction for $120 shipping and everything
    I've already sold 1 of the rotors for 1340 engine and re-cooped some of my money

    okay .. lets wrap this up

    I replaced the stator with the new one using the 4 news allen screws . Getting the rotor back on without removing the clutch basket was a little tricky , but not hard to do . Now I put the primary
    nut back on using a little red loc tite and by stuffing the rag under the bottom side of the sprocket . I don't have a torque wrench so I tightened by feel . Yea i know but I didn't have one. now route the stator wire through the motor casing .. Be sure to lube up the grommet so that it is easier to ceet it in the hole. I didn't worry about routing it all the way yet . Now re-install the primary cover
    using the new gasket . Make sure the adjuster shoe for the primary chain is under the chain . There is a torque spec for the primary bolts but there again I didn't have a torque wrench . Try to tighten the bolts to draw up the cover even . Now to hook the clutch back up.Slide the coupling back over the clutch adjustment bolt .
    screw the nut on the adjustment nut .you may have to use a small flathead screwdriver to keep the bolt from spinning . Once the nut is down to the coupler we can adjust the clutch ..I could go through the details on this but I recommend going by the service manual .
    Now put your 1 quart of whatever trans oil you are using .Put the spring and retainer in place and replace the derby cover. Now adjust your tention on the primary chain by screwing in the allen screw under bottom of the cover . You can check tension through the 2 bolt inspection cover on front of primary cover . Adjust according to service manual specs .
    Replace cover . Now adjust the clutch cable itself until you have just a little freeplay at the end of the travel on the clutch lever .
    replace shifting lever .We are now through with this side of the bike for now .. Now we have to finish routing the stator wire . This was fun to do but eventually we got it . Now plug it in and wire tie (plastic ties) the wire to the frame so that it is secure . Now we can
    hook the battery back up and we are ready to go riding ..

    I checked voltage at the battery and I'm now reading 14.2 now ..

    This is how I did this job and it may or may not be the way you should do it . Use your own judgement . See You Later , I'm going riding !!!!!

    Just a final amendment on the clutch adjustment .
    You should only adjust your clutch when the engine is cold . adjusting when engine is warm will change the setting !!!

    when adjusted right the clutch should dis-engage (start pulling the bike ) when the clutch lever is 3/4 to 1" away from bar . This ensures
    full release of the clutch . If your clutch is not dis-engaging within this range you could be slipping the clutch . Also when adjusting clutch cable, check and make sure you have free play on the clutch lever when fully out ..

    Also I am a little concerned that I'm charging 14.2 vdc That is a little high
    and could probably be my regulator . This was replaced a few months ago,
    and I was hoping it would be alright. It is best to change stator and regulator out at the same time .

    Ride save and Happy Holidays :)
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 4, 2011
  2. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

    14.2 is not high. You did a good job.
  3. marknett

    marknett Active Member

    Thanks Hoople , I was a little worried about boilng the battery.
  4. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

    You didn't give all the specs needed to be sure (RPM range) but 14.25 at idle and also at 2500 RPM is as good as it gets. Since your single phase, I doubt you have 14.25 at idle but if you do, be sure to check it at 2500-3000 range.
  5. fin_676

    fin_676 Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

    Great write up i was with you every step of the way
    Perhaps at some stage in the future a torque wrench should be on your shopping list and perhaps a digital camera to take pics of the procedure to share with other forum members However i often go to the shed and do something and later think about the pics

  6. marknett

    marknett Active Member

    Actually I am running 14.25 at idle and (no tach ) when reving it up I only increase very slightly to 14.38
  7. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Guest

    Good job, 14,5 volts would not be a problem either, it will settle down some once the battery is fully charged:s