Phase I Rear Signal Relocation - questions!

Discussion in 'Dyna Models' started by markfsanderson, May 5, 2012.

  1. markfsanderson

    markfsanderson Active Member

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    All,
    Here is my album showing phase one of my rear signal relocation efforts. I'm doing this because eventually I want to have some quick detach bags and I like the look of the slant license plate as well. Here are a couple of quick questions:

    1. Is it necessary to lift the bike's rear end to free the wheel so I can back the signal light stud out? In one of the last pictures in the album, You'll notice that stud is pretty long and tire on the ground is interfering with it being backed out. Any cool work around for this one - or do I need to buy/make a lift?
    2. The signal plugs are pretty tight little dudes . . and I can't figure out how to detach them. Those are the ones that attach the signal light to the circuit board there on the rear tail late assembly. Sheesh . . . they don't want it going anywhere for sure!

    So far so good . . . I'll keep sending pictures as I make progress. . . .any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Oh yeah - My bike (its on my profile) is a 2011 Super Glide Custom FXDC (stock except for a stock replacement K&N airfilter) and the part that I'm installing is part number 60215-06

    Oh - and this is my first real project on my bike . . . first of many I hope!

    Mark - Thanks!:small3d021:
     
  2. fin_676

    fin_676 Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    Mark if you are going to do projects on your bike then a lift would be money well spent I currently have 3 although 1 of them is a simple pivot type to lift 1 wheel at a time
    if raising the rear end does not drop the wheel far enough to get the stud out disconnecting the suspension units will allow that additional clearance
    i cant help on the electrical as my bikes are much older and more simple

    Brian
     
  3. R_W_B

    R_W_B Senior Member

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    Mark I installed an HD relo kit almost identical to yours over a year ago and I also have a Dyna model.

    A lift will make it easier to get your hands up between the tire and the fender to fish the wires out of the old and into the tail lite area. I also laid a mirror on the floor so I could see what I was feeling around to.

    Harbor Freight has the lift I bought for bout $70 to $90 depending on what sale they are running. You have to move the pads to the outside of of the lift arms to clear the Dyna Oil pan that comes down below the frame. It takes about 15 to 20 mins to do the lift mod.

    And a trip to the hardware store to buy some 1/2" grade 8 bolts to attach the pads on the outside. You could just get some longer ones of the same slightly smaller dia bolts that came with it but most folks reccommend 1/2" dia for this mod which btw has been done by hundreds of folks. You can see a pic of the lift mod in my Profile albums.

    You will also need a good 1/2" bit to drill out the holes a bit. If you have some money to spend I think the Pit Bull fits the bike with no mods and is a very versatile lift, which it should be for $340 plus.

    But lifting the bike alone, will not allow you to pull that old signal bolt out. I just cut mine off with a 4" grinder and bought new stainless button heads to replace it. You'd have to remove the shocks and drop the wheel further down for that bolt to clear. The relo kit should provide oval chrome pieces to put behind the replacement bolt to cover the second hole.

    The kit tells you to cut the wires so the weather proof heat shrink is under the fender. But I did not want to apply that kind of heat near the tire or on the fender so I cut mine so the joint was in the tail lite housing itself. Then I had it where I could sheild the other stuff better while I heated up the heat shrinks. I also bough smaller heat shrinks since the ones they provided were huge.

    Inspect those wires that come out of the old sigs carefully to make sure they don't have need of repair with scrapes. Mine had some severe damage where the luggage rack had been installed.

    If you have to pop the rear signal reflectors out ( I did ) they come out by walking a thin flat screwdriver around the edge of them. Just go behide the rubber and work both the rubber and the plastic out. Go slow or the plastic will break on you.

    Some folks slip a hook of sorts in where the bulb goes and pull it out.

    Other than that it's a slam dunk operation.
     
  4. markfsanderson

    markfsanderson Active Member

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    Hmm, 4" grinder huh? Those look like pretty hefty studs . . . I'm wondering if a dremel with a cut-off wheel would do the trick. I'm going to first try building this bike lift, and try deflating the tires a bit to see if I can extract the stud. by doing both I suspect I might just have enough room to extract them. I'm nervous about fully deflating them, as I don't want to take the bead off . . . I have no means to remount the tire and would have to take it to a dealer to get it done.

    Mark - thanks!
     
  5. fin_676

    fin_676 Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    The issue i would have with the self build lift/jack is that it would have to be toward the rear of the bike to lift the rear wheel and you may end up fouling the oil pan unless you tailor the block of wood so that there is a cut out to clear the oil pan

    Brian
     
  6. R_W_B

    R_W_B Senior Member

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    A dremel will do it (slower) but depending on the blade you use there won't be much less of it when you are done. I cut a wheel stud off a trailer hub once with a dremel but it took awhile.

    4" grinders are cheap at Harbor Freight. You want the right angle one, where the blade is in the vertical plane as you hold it.

    Never seen that lift kit before. What ever lift you use, be careful and aware.
     
  7. markfsanderson

    markfsanderson Active Member

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    Well, here is phase 2! I've pretty much completed everything up to the final wiring of the turn signals. The left signal stalk seems like I might of damaged it . . or something - not sure. The kit came with a piece of metal that covers one hole on the bullet light and makes it all look a little nicer. The one on the left is loose and rattles. No matter how much I tighten - it is still loose. I might have to put some Jb weld or something to hold it down. I'm sure it'll make a racket when I'm at speed on the road. The one on the right seems to be fine . . .does not shift much at all. I guess I could try adding more washers? Not sure of what I should do at this time . . . we'll see. The holes that are left from removing the rear signal standoffs is ugly . . .the dealership dude says the covering was included - not! Anyone have ideas about this one?
    Oh yeah . . . RWB - I was harbor freight and was about to settle for a 20.00 4" cutter to remove the bolts. Instead, I purchased a 12.00 pair of bolt cutters that did the trick. Not sure what I'll do with bolt cutters though after this! I was able to cut the bolt pretty quick, but the first time I managed to nearly knock myself out using that darn things - haha! I'm suprised I don't have a black eye! I was wearing eye protection of course, but when the bolt cut, it gave and the handle gave me a good bop in the face and sent the shard flying across the garage. Duh!! On the next one, I changed the way I was holding the bolt cutters and put a rag over the bolt to slow down the its sudden release. This worked much better . . . moral of the story - don't get into the bolt cutting business! Seriously . . . . they are very useful but be prepared for a sudden release and a it taking off in a random direction if the bolt end isn't managed correctly.
    On a positive note . . . Harbor Freight has life-time warranty on their handle tools . . . I got some Torx bits for my 3/8" ratchet set . . . . kind of roughly made but the material quality seems to be high.
    Well tomorrow . . . I'll finish up the wiring . . . have to read about AMP connectors, which is slot #1 and #2 . . etc etc . . . should have the wiring all finished tomorrow. The license plate studs are on a plate that is glued to the holder and requires 24 hours to cure . . .so I won't be riding this weekend until later Sunday evening . . .oh well!
    So far I like the look . . .but I sure would like to find something to finish off the fender chrome to hide those ugly holes . . .

    Mark - Thanks!:newsmile026:
     
  8. R_W_B

    R_W_B Senior Member

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    I looked at the pictures Mark, when you say "stalk" what exactly are your referring to ? . . . . The chrome hollow conduit (pipe) that the relo sigs are mounted on ?

    I'm a little confused on the kit that you have. On mine the sigs came with an insert (kinda like what you're calling the "piece of metal"). It fits onto the sig bullet (where the old side plate extenstions used to be) and attaches directly onto the end of the threaded conduit. I stuck mine onto the sigs with clear silicone and wiped the excess off immediately. Then I tightened the one nut up against it tight and then (if memory serves me) there was a second locking nut of which I tightened against that nut which held it tight. The only trouble I had there was getting the sig set straight where I wanted it while I tightened the nut(s).

    The relo kit should provide oval chrome pieces to cover the second hole, they go behind the replacement bolt (which goes in the first hole). My kit came with them. (this is not the same plates that fit into the sig bullets). If your kit did not have them you need to contact your reseller. You could cut, sand and polish some out of some thin plat aluminum aluminum from Lowes but only if you have to.

    Glad you got it done. If you watch the sales flyers you can buy those 4" grinders for $14. The bolt cutters are good tools too, I have both, but I use that littel grinder for just about everything. I'd be lost without it.

    You should have written down where each plug wire went before you pulled them out of the sockets. If not you can check you manual or I can look it up for you in mine. The rear sigs only have two wires, one ground wire and one B+ wire so I don't imagine it matters on the wires, just make sure you plug the AMP back in where it came out of.
     
  9. markfsanderson

    markfsanderson Active Member

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    RWB
    Thanks for your help! This is the relocation kit that I purchased from Harley-Davidson. It is the one that is specifically mentioned to fit my year and model of motorcycle. It mentions that it comes with all mounting hardware, but does not mention in the instructions that it comes with any cosmetic add-ons to cover up any bolt holes left over by the procedure.
    Sorry about the bad description - it was getting late! Yes the 'stalk' I mentioned is the chrome shaft that is included in the kit. My kit included the insert that fits on the new chrome shaft to hide the 2 holes on the bullet signals themselves. My kit, however, does not include, and does not mention in the instructions any kind of cosmetic insert to be installed on the fender 'rail' that covers the two holes left behind. Now, I have to find out what part number to order to do this! I've looked online and have not found any cosmetic inserts. Perhaps H-D sells them as quick detach rails for their saddlebags? Not sure.
    Silicone is a great idea - not mentioned in the instructions . . . but I'll do that . . . . as you can see I'm rather slaveish to instructions w/out much mechanical skill - hahah! I've got some outside in the garage somewhere . . .I hope!
    Nope, knucklehead (duh - stick to software sanderson! :newsmile026:)here didn't write down the polarity. The relocation kits instruction does mention that a specific wire color should go to slot one - but does not tell you how to determine which slot is slot one. Neither the mechanical or electrical manual mention which slot (left or right from view front or rear) is slot or position #1. Once I have that information - I'm good to go.
    I'll try on the net also to see if I can figure out which is slot one . . . If all else fails, I can certainly try hooking up my VOM and see what the polarity is. We'll see . . .:small3d031:

    Thanks Again!

    Mark - Thanks!
     
  10. R_W_B

    R_W_B Senior Member

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    Ok as I read your post it's all coming back to me now. I apologize it's been well over a year since I did this. But don't worry I'm fixun to give you the complete lowdown.

    Yes, HD does not mention a lot of things. I went thru the same stuff you are and had to search all this stuff down back then but I had forgotten it.

    Originally the "only" reason the sig relo kit was sold was as an "additional" kit to the saddlebag bracket kit. HD never envisioned that someone might want to just buy the relo kit by itself or inadvertently buy it first instead of after the saddlebag bracket kit.

    So to make a long story short, you've probably noticed that the old relo fender backet bolt is smaller and more puny lookin than the forward bracket bolt. Well it's not recommended for mounting bags. To do that you need a stiffer bolt and to screw that larger bolt in you need interior fender bracket inserts that have the larger theads in them.

    I had to buy this kit but had forgotten about it. " It " has the cosmetic hole cover included in this kit.

    It's called the rigid sideplate mounting kit. They have the threads in them that holds heavier rear saddlebag rated attachment bolts.

    It's HD part #53975-06 comes with the plug, better brackets for bags and hardware.

    I've attached the HD PDF file of it. (edit the PDF must be too large it won't attach, let me see if I can find a link online so you can view what you would be getting)

    This can be bought locally or at 53975-06 | New Castle Harley-Davidson

    I bought the above and it's a better application for bags.
    ---------------------------
    If you think you don't need the heavier saddlebag bracket kit, you can buy only the hole plug. It's HD Part #56239-93
    can be bought locally OR online at,

    HOLE PLUG, 56239-93, HOLE PLUG

    for a couple of bucks and shipping.