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PCV or Not

sg2007

Member
Hey guys need help just changed my 2010 streetglide from a 2-1 exhaust to a 2-1-2 stock exhaust minus the cat,remove the cat myself pretty easy.Just installed a set of Jackpot mufflers from Fuelmoto and putting quarters in my piggy bank for a PC-V later.But in the meantime running with stock A/C,till I decided to install the Screaming Eagle A/C to see how it ran,well it ran OK no popping on decel and not that hot.My question is how or what signs are that its running lean or too lean besides decel pop.It seems to have slightly more power with the SE A/C,does removing the cat have a negative or positive affect on the O2 sensors? I here about crosstalk between O2 sensors but dont understand what that means,does it affect the AFR? If it does is it on closed loop or open loop operation?Can I just run the bike with stock A/C and not worry about lean conditons or will the improved exhaust flow after removing the cat enrich the AFR and allow the use of the SE A/C? The bike has only 4000 miles on it and really want it to run better,should I just wait and get the PC-V?
 
Dude, You just opened her up for free breathing which means more thirsty. Probably running ok. The 2010 will auto adjust to a degree. IMHO you can get away with a map download from your local Harley Dealer based on the mods you did. $99 here. Best performance will be obtained from SERT and a professional dyno tune. IMHO my research revealed the SERT beats all other brands hands down. PCV gets lots of attention but you are still limited to what you can do with it. SERT will be your life long friend.
Check your plugs after about 1000 miles. You'll be able to tell if it is too lean. Honestly takes awhile for lean to show up on plugs but only way you got with out a sniffer.
Good luck.
 
Removeing the cats will have no affect on the 02sensors, The 02sensors just messure the oxygen content in the exhaust and report the ammount of oxygen content back to the PCM. The system should be able to adjust the mix back to factory A/F mixture with the mod you did. But the factory mix is on the LEAN side to start with so some sort of fuel map would be a good idea and probly a must when you also do the a/c .
 
My thoughts...

1) Usualy if you just have changed the OEM mufflers to slip-ons, no issue. But you changed the headpipe, even though it's still a stock headpipe, it may flow differently than the 2-1. So not sure what you will find. Ony way to know for sure is to measure it.

2) If you do an stage 1 AC, you can get the AC and PVC from Jamie at FM and the PCV will be mapped to your set up/bike and should plug and play. I thinks there is a discount if you buy both the AC and PVC or a package cost.

3) If you do a stage 1 AC and no fueler, then that's your choice.

If you do to the dealer to do a download, they do sell a SE Street Pro Tuner. This allows the dealer to download an EPA approved map. Only the dealer can do this work. Don't get the SE Pro Super Tuner and Street Performance tuner mixed up. Two totaly different items.

Good luck!
 
Does this mean that 2-1 setups are mapped differently than 2-1-2 requiring more fuel even if using the stock A/C?
 
Checking the plug is most cases is a waste of time.

What Smitty says about checking plugs, I have found to be true. Just to see what the change in color would be, I have adjusted my A/F to 12.5 to 1 at idle and the plugs were still near white (eggshell color). You can't read plugs anymore using E10 fuel. Using the old "good" stuff you can, but those days are over. You will never see a change even with a spread of 2 ratio points.
 
Does this mean that 2-1 setups are mapped differently than 2-1-2 requiring more fuel even if using the stock A/C?

I would think not.

Usually you can change only the pipes and get away with it. If you put on the AC i would do something to add more fuel. These bikes run lean in stock form, so any time you add pipes and or AC you are making it even leaner. Stage 1 download is the cheapest and easiest.It add a bit more fuel and changes ign. timing. Any time i install a download (I work for HD) i intall one for a bigbore stage 1. For example you have a 2010 flhx which is 96ci, I would install a download for a 103 big bore stage 1 (Flat tops and Jugs ONly) IT adds a lil more fuel, but is still lean compared to a full tune with a SEST. AS of the PCV Its all opinon. I personally have not had good luck with PCV. Its is hardware vs. the SEST is software. Therefore no connectors to get water/ moisture in and ruins the unit. Also there are a lot more tuning veriables with a SEST vs power commander.
 
Brutal,would installing a 103 big bore download work good on a 2-2 exhaust setup previously set up as a 2-1 and improve the torque curve a bit? If so what part number should I ask for when going to my HD dealership? I did read on HD P/A catalog that after installing a 2-2 head pipe it requires an ECM calibration,would this be a different download as opposed to a stage 1? I would hate to to request a wrong stage 1 download and void my warranty,or damaged the ECM if thats even possible.
 
I understand removing cats voids warranty,but so does installing PCV.My question is the ECM calibration for the 2-2 exhaust upgrade the same as a stage one calibration? Switched out header on my 2010 SG from the stock 2-1 to 2-2 and P/A catalog mentions that it requires ECM calibration with this upgrade.
 
I agree with Smitty for the most part. To be clear the 2-1-2 is distinctly different dependent on the maker of the exhaust. The Stock HD 2-1-2 allows only about 10% flow out of the left side muffler and it is not and xpipe design in the Header pipe. This causes unmatched flow measured from front and rear cylinders. That means the ECM mapping is set up slightly different for each cylinder. After market Head pipes like the Jackpot 2-1-2 and the V&H power duals are also configured just enough different that they too require different ECM mapping. Bottom line is HD has probably hundreds of Maps for virtually every combination you can put on your bike. My local dealer charges just $99 for a map download that will suit most just fine. Best performance will without a doubt come from adding the SERT (pro) and put it on a dyno. The SERT stays with the bike and can be remapped as you do future mods. HD local to me does a full dyno tune for $250. The SERT pro can be had from M&M Cycles for just under $400.
 
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