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Panhead clutch problem

Aloha, I have a 52 Panhead. When I start the bike, in neutral, squeeze the clutch lever in and shift into first with out letting go of the clutch lever, the bike jerks very hard forward and the engine stalls. It's like the gears "punch" in. What's going on? I followed the clutch adjustment video on this board discussion but still does not work. Need help! Mahalo!
 
Fine tune the 3 or 5 studs on the clutch hub an readjust the clutch free travel:s
 
Does it do it all the time or only when cold? What Jack meant in fine tuning the studs, requires removing the primary cover. Then look at the clutch hub while squeezing the lever. the pressure plate should move out evenly all around, not lopsided. Because of wear and fatigue on the springs, some stud nuts need to be tighter/looser than others. Another possibility is the "ears" on the plates and/or edges of the clutch basket get beat up and the plates catch and drag.
Last thing I can think of is even though you are running a dry clutch, the fiber plates can get caked with oil and stick. I'm not mentioning adjustment of the clutch screw, tranny lever or clutch lever assembly because there's so many possible combinations of levers, mousetraps etc. AND I have next to zero experience with most. Be persistent with questions and descriptions, we should figure something out.
Oh yea, welcome to the forum. :)
 
I have found on a LOT of older bikes that the clutch cable housing is worn enough to Not allow the separation NEEDED to have the clutch work smoothly (release).. I tend to keep the adjustment lever tighter than normal and hope I don't cause wear on the throw-out balls...

signed....BUBBIE
 
I have found on a LOT of older bikes that the clutch cable housing is worn enough to Not allow the separation NEEDED to have the clutch work smoothly (release).. I tend to keep the adjustment lever tighter than normal and hope I don't cause wear on the throw-out balls...

signed....BUBBIE

It would work the same as the cable..

On my Dads 51, the rod adjustment was done so it would fully disengage and Maybe yours is too Loose of an adjustment?

The suicide clutch should totally move enough to release the plates... DID it work before adjustment?

One reason I always want to see and remember Where the original adjustment was Before I Rework the clutch adjustment..


ALSO,,,, where are you getting the information to adjust the clutch???

Hope you are Not using the modern bike adjustment here....
 
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I got the video clutch adjustment on this board

I live in Hawaii, cold is no problem. This bike was given to me by my father in law. He's been working on it for a few years and he's tired of messing with it and now it's my turn to mess with it.

I adjusted all the studs.

Here is the instruction from this board:

Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.

3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.

4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.


Still did not get it to work!
 
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By cold, I meant not warmed up from riding, not snow on the ground cold.
A rocker foot clutch adjustment on a Pan head is a lot different, and I have no real knowledge of the procedure. :(
 
It is a foot clutch

Foot clutches are a bit more tricky, you need 1/4 inch of free travel, check the hub stud nuts first, back off center screw and adjust the push rod, check for free travel on linkage to throw out bearing arm, adjust linkage for same free travel. If this does not work you will need to disassemble clutch to check plates and release mechanism
 
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