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Oil pressure

HDDon

Experienced Member
Contributor
Retired Moderators
Oil does thin out when hot. That said how many miles on your bike and what type of oil do you run?
 
When you changed the oil the last time did you clean the tappit screen? How often do you change the oil?
 
11k miles 20/50 dino

I would strongly recommend to switch oil to a 20/50 synthetic.. Your oil "dino" will NOT hold up under the heat,, Right now , once Over Heated it Starts to Looses (viscosity), its ability to be a multi-weight oil and will Not lube properly (burnt out).. Synthetic oil Keeps the molecules working longer under the Stress of Heat..

BIG DIFFERENCE using Full Synthetic..

Foe EASE of any argument , I would SUGGEST switch to 20/50 Mobil 1 for V-twin application OR My favorite is Redline, Amsoil also is Sold by Moderator, "The Tank" here on the forum.. He is a no balognia type of guy and would answer all you need to know about it in a PM..

I would suggest you PM him and get some facts...

Also READ lots here on OILS

The Heat and "0" is Not good, IF you rather Not switch YOU Need to change That oil as Over heated as it got , It probably already won't do its job needed..

signed....BUBBIE
 
This oil only has about 500 miles on it.Castrol GTX.I change it twice a year regardless of mileage,always less than 3k.Dont want to get into a discussion about synth vs. dino,I'm not a mechanic,but I do have 40 yrs exp with bikes and have tried all the oils in many different bikes.I wont use synth.It seeps out of the lower seam where the heads join the crankcase on this bike.Dino doesnt.The last synth I tried was Redline,it seeped after 2 days,took it out and the seeping stopped with dino.Tappet screen was/is clean.I'll ask again,when it gets hot and I see "0" on my pressure gauge,is the oil not flowing,or is it just so thin the gauge doesnt see it.

Can be BOTH.. If you had a bleed valve to open and see IF OIL Is Flowing when that HOT, that would be the only way I would know and Trust ..

I See I can't help out here as everything I want to do is opposite of what you want to do..:newsmile011:

The Owner is always right..

signed....BUBBIE
 
This oil only has about 500 miles on it.Castrol GTX.I change it twice a year regardless of mileage,always less than 3k.Dont want to get into a discussion about synth vs. dino,I'm not a mechanic,but I do have 40 yrs exp with bikes and have tried all the oils in many different bikes.I wont use synth.It seeps out of the lower seam where the heads join the crankcase on this bike.Dino doesnt.The last synth I tried was Redline,it seeped after 2 days,took it out and the seeping stopped with dino.Tappet screen was/is clean.I'll ask again,when it gets hot and I see "0" on my pressure gauge,is the oil not flowing,or is it just so thin the gauge doesnt see it.
Why not install a master gauge and run bike to see if you can duplicate problem. If gauge reads 0 and engine does not sound like it is coming apart then maybe gauge is bad.
 
The oil you are using Castrol GTX is not made for air cooled motors. Castrol is now offering a Vtwin oil. you need to seriously think about using oil that is specificly made for air cooled Vtwins.
 
Why not install a master gauge and run bike to see if you can duplicate problem. If gauge reads 0 and engine does not sound like it is coming apart then maybe gauge is bad.

+1 on that.

Bodeen
 
It is pretty amazing how little oil pressure these air cooled twins will run under. I would check the pressure with a master gauge to rule out a bad gauge. What type filter are you running?Zero oil pressure for any length of time I would expect to hear some rattling especially in the valve train let a lone the lifters would not pump up
 
The oil you are using Castrol GTX is not made for air cooled motors. Castrol is now offering a Vtwin oil. you need to seriously think about using oil that is specificly made for air cooled Vtwins.

+1....syn or dino, I would agree that you should be using oil made "specifically" for air-cooled bikes, probably would hold up better under high-temps:s
 
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