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Oil Pressure???

My oil pressure at operating temp is 30-32psi at 2500rpm drops to 15 to 18psi at idle (1000rpm).

You want to improve those numbers even more. There may be a magic pump out there but I would think improving on 15-18 PSI at idle with a hot engine may be hard to do. (?)
 
You want to improve those numbers even more. There may be a magic pump out there but I would think improving on 15-18 PSI at idle with a hot engine may be hard to do. (?)

You are Right On here hoop, that is a great low rpm pressure!
The main thing I see with the up-dated oil pump is On the Return side From the engine Much wider gearotors (more return volume)... to keep oil OUT of the sump-crank area... The foaming at the Air problem solve.

It will run just fine at 8 lbs low and 25 lbs on high.. But I always want the Most and the Best and some times it Just isn't there even After the change... Then what... well,,, bubbie said....... Blame me I can take it. Ha ha

signed....BUBBIE
 
Thanks Hoople and Bubbie, I know that the psi I'm getting is within the ranges from the moco, but there has to be a reason for HD to upgrade the oil pump and I also know that oil and pressure are the life blood of any air cooled motor. Down here in FL I have always run an oil cooler which has to help, today midday temps hit 89/90 and down in Leesburg (stop and go traffic) I saw the temp guage go to 195*. Anyone out there have a price for just the new oil pump? I have also seen the oil tank that holds an extra qt. of oil, any out there running one of these?
 
I saw the temp guage go to 195*. ?

When you say "temp gauge" what are your referring to. If it's oil temp, 195F is nothing. You need at least that to burn off the water condensation that's in the oil. Keeping it under 220F is all you would ever need. But with the bike standing still in traffic, that is hard to do.
 
When you say "temp gauge" what are your referring to. If it's oil temp, 195F is nothing. You need at least that to burn off the water condensation that's in the oil. Keeping it under 220F is all you would ever need. But with the bike standing still in traffic, that is hard to do.

Hoople that is oil temp, took the usless amb air guage out and replaced with oil temp guage. Highest reading I've seen was 210* on a 98* day in stop and go on Main st. during Bike Week. Engine is stock 88 with the K&N a/c, andrews 26g cams, V&H true duels with python slip ons. I really think the S&S gear drive freed up the motor.
 
Don, 210F is nothing for oil to handle. I have a pretty cool running engine myself and my oil will see around 238F on a hot summer day. I would say whatever you have done to cool yours down is working for sure.
 
Don, 210F is nothing for oil to handle. I have a pretty cool running engine myself and my oil will see around 238F on a hot summer day. I would say whatever you have done to cool yours down is working for sure.

I think one thing HDDon has going in his favor on His bike is keeping the 88" stock bore.. I would BET his gas mileage has also stayed UP...

My conversion to gear drives worked well also on my 2000 FXDS.. The GAS mileage went down a Bunch when I went with the 95" bore..
I dropped from 48 mpg to 38 to 40 at the best... Then 36 when i fiddled with a 42 mikuni..

Bigger bore = using More gas. That seams to be the Big problem with going to 95".. To do it over on a Keeper Bike, I would stay at 88" and do the other things like Don has done to make power.

I agree with Hoople here on the temp and in Flordia.. Gotta have things Right in your bike Don!... By the way What is your gas mileage? Hope I'm not Wrong at my thinking there...

Just got off the phone with HD shop.. The newer oil pump by it's self is 215$ BUT they didn't know if it being a straight change-out in the older bikes. They weren't sure that it Might need the KIT "cam plate" to do the conversion.. the length of pump a little longer they said. So the KIT might still be needed...

The KIT at 429$ is really a good price for all the extra parts.. and if only for the cam plate and oil pump Not Bad.. IMO.

signed....BUBBIE
 
I think one thing HDDon has going in his favor on His bike is keeping the 88" stock bore.. I would BET his gas mileage has also stayed UP...

My conversion to gear drives worked well also on my 2000 FXDS.. The GAS mileage went down a Bunch when I went with the 95" bore..
I dropped from 48 mpg to 38 to 40 at the best... Then 36 when i fiddled with a 42 mikuni..

Bigger bore = using More gas. That seams to be the Big problem with going to 95".. To do it over on a Keeper Bike, I would stay at 88" and do the other things like Don has done to make power.

I agree with Hoople here on the temp and in Flordia.. Gotta have things Right in your bike Don!... By the way What is your gas mileage? Hope I'm not Wrong at my thinking there...

Just got off the phone with HD shop.. The newer oil pump by it's self is 215$ BUT they didn't know if it being a straight change-out in the older bikes. They weren't sure that it Might need the KIT "cam plate" to do the conversion.. the length of pump a little longer they said. So the KIT might still be needed...

The KIT at 429$ is really a good price for all the extra parts.. and if only for the cam plate and oil pump Not Bad.. IMO.

signed....BUBBIE

Bubbie, thanks for the info on the pump upgrade. I think I'll get in touch with Fueling and see about that conversion. You are correct about the fuel miliage, it has remained pretty constant at 46 to 48mpg. Rode to Texas last summer and had to get there pretty quick so it was interstate all the way, and averaged 43mpg with mostly 80 to 85mph. Pretty happy with the bike and the mods. I have the Harley Race tuner and it is something that you can work with.
 
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