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Oil pressure gauge install

BOWHIKER

Junior Member
I've read the PDF on how to install the pressure gauge but can't find any where if it is nessasary to drain the oil before removing the sensor ?
 
I've read the PDF on how to install the pressure gauge but can't find any where if it is nessasary to drain the oil before removing the sensor ?

I just removed the sensor and added the right angle adaptor fitting so the IDIOT light worked as before. Putting the Idiot in place and threads sealed again, BEFORE installing the fitting.. This made easy then... No need to do anything with the oil..

My oil gauge went on a chrome bracket off the rear cyl head, putting the pressure tube line, Between the front lifter tubes and into the slightly turned IN(right, toward motor by 15*)More than Straight Up , worked great in my ride... Keeps it off the pipes this way.

signed....BUBBIE
 
I've read the PDF on how to install the pressure gauge but can't find any where if it is nessasary to drain the oil before removing the sensor ?

I thought the H-D PDF was odd. It would have you bouncing back and forth from fitting to gauge during the install.

I agree with Bubbie, no need to drain oil before install. I do recommend prepping the new fitting as much as you can before removing pressure switch. If you can scrounge up temporary plugs for the "T" fitting it will save you a little mess. Maybe just finger tight with the plugs.

This may be relevant:



Highlights of my install are here, with foot notes.

Have fun! I certainly did!

Cheers!
 
They've got you covered. If your kit came with the adapter (mine did) you're all set. Use some thread sealant on the threads. I put my OEM sensor into the adapter before I installed the adapter into the engine.

I needed a couple of shorty wrenches to get in there on mine since my exhaust was in the way. Remember these are pipe threads, forget about the torque wrench (unless you want to risk stripping your crankcase threads), and just tighten by feel. Pipe threads get tighter as you go (they are tapered).

Make a note of the position of the adapter when you START turning it into the crankcase. If then when you are trying to get the adaptor to turn back up so the oil line is heading up, you find it getting TOO tight. Then remove it and then start 180 degrees different than the last time.

Other than that it's an easy mod. I plugged the sensor hole with a clean rag to keep the oil from running everywhere.
 
I ended up buying a Russel steel braided hose kit for my bike. The T fitting is chrome and i got rid of that cheap plastic hose with the compression fittings at each end. Looks much nicer and gives me peace of mind because that .47 cent hose gets brittle over time and from the heat off the engine.
 
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