After doing an oil change and after firing it up to fill the oil filter, level should be 1/2 on the dipstick. To check the oil when it is hot, it has to be HOT like at least 200 deg. After I do an oil change I go for a ride until my oil temp is 200 deg or more. My oil level always ends up at the 3/4 mark on the dipstick and thats where I leave it.
oil in a/c
- Thread starter Trek
- Start date
Grillfish
Junior Member
I have an 09 RG. Never had the problem until about 1 yr ago. I use to keep the oil right at the full mark. I was getting blow by (have Ness Big Sucker). I took a turkey baster and sucked out the oil until I was down about 1/2 a qt. Now, I only get a few drops, but I take off mt ac cover about once a week, clean the inside of the cover with a rag and put it back on. Not much oil there, but it's a 2 minute, 1 screw job.
Good luck. Let us know if the dealer does more than just say "it's normal and lower the oil level."
Ride safe and have fun.
Good luck. Let us know if the dealer does more than just say "it's normal and lower the oil level."
Ride safe and have fun.
Hoople
Account Removed
You really want zero to near zero oil getting in your air cleaner for two important reasons. One is the intake air thermistor is right in the throat of the throttle body and you do not want that resistor to get a film of oil on it because it will inhibit it's ability to read the intake air temp.
The 2nd reason is because the intake IAC port will pull in oil and it will sludge up the stepper motor and associated bleed valve parts.
It is not just about having a mess to clean up. The oil will affect and alter the perform of the engine management system.
The 2nd reason is because the intake IAC port will pull in oil and it will sludge up the stepper motor and associated bleed valve parts.
It is not just about having a mess to clean up. The oil will affect and alter the perform of the engine management system.
Thanks again everyone. Thanks Hopple for the detail of the pumps and what is actually going on with the air intake system. It sounds like it is something I should have fixed as soon as possible as opposed to waiting until the end of the riding season. I am taking off half a day tomorrow to take it back to Frieze Harley where I had the stage 1 done and see what they say. Hopefully I won't have to pitch too much of a fit. I will keep everyone posted.
Seriously. If you have oil pouring out of the A/C, then there could be an issue with your oil route.
A little oil goes a long way when driving down the road. So a thimble full would spread everywhere. On long trips if you over fill your oil, you will have oil in your filter. It is a blow by system. The extra oil gets sucked back into the motor. Clean the oil out of the A/C cover, and then run your bike til hot. Then check your oil. If it is past full you will need to drain some. I can tell you right now that the dealership is going to explain that this is the process of a motorcycle engine. Oil blow by goes back into the intake. If you do no want it to do so then you will have to fabricate a filter system. Not hard, and easy to find instructions on the internet.
I think you might have over oiled you K&N, and some oil came out via the blow by, and drained down your bike. Without pics it is all speculation. Is that a bad word? So your ride. Take it to the dealer, but if you don't have a service manual for you ride. Get one. It will give you a world of confidence, and also explain what you bike is doing when you turn it on.
By the way. By the time you get your bike at the dealer. The MoCo has tested your bike long enough to set the rings. Only on a build that is fresh from a custom shop do you need worry about break in. Your motor was run, and run hard with every sensor checked before it went in your motorcycle for shipping. Just food for thought.
Now if you had bought pistons, heads, cylinder, oil pan, etc, and built it in your garage. Then, yes, you would have needed to do a proper break in. Think about it.
A little oil goes a long way when driving down the road. So a thimble full would spread everywhere. On long trips if you over fill your oil, you will have oil in your filter. It is a blow by system. The extra oil gets sucked back into the motor. Clean the oil out of the A/C cover, and then run your bike til hot. Then check your oil. If it is past full you will need to drain some. I can tell you right now that the dealership is going to explain that this is the process of a motorcycle engine. Oil blow by goes back into the intake. If you do no want it to do so then you will have to fabricate a filter system. Not hard, and easy to find instructions on the internet.
I think you might have over oiled you K&N, and some oil came out via the blow by, and drained down your bike. Without pics it is all speculation. Is that a bad word? So your ride. Take it to the dealer, but if you don't have a service manual for you ride. Get one. It will give you a world of confidence, and also explain what you bike is doing when you turn it on.
By the way. By the time you get your bike at the dealer. The MoCo has tested your bike long enough to set the rings. Only on a build that is fresh from a custom shop do you need worry about break in. Your motor was run, and run hard with every sensor checked before it went in your motorcycle for shipping. Just food for thought.
Now if you had bought pistons, heads, cylinder, oil pan, etc, and built it in your garage. Then, yes, you would have needed to do a proper break in. Think about it.
Most Newer HD will put oil in the ac, Due to the restricted factory exhaust.. Excessive amount of restriction causing excessive heat. The exhaust is quiet now due to the federal noise laws. However, Putting Free flowing slip ons on the bike and Changing the air cleaner style to allow old school drainage to the ground will cure that. Hd is going back to putting piston coolers in the engine. If the pump isnt set up right The oil squirters will shoot oil at the rings when the piston is in the downward position, instead of under the piston when it is in the up position.
So how do so many twin cam 96" engines get overfilled? The answer would seem to be that if the crankcase were entirely devoid of any oil at all it would take 4 quarts to fill it up. On a new engine the factory puts in 4 quarts of oil. But, when we change fluids out we do not drain out a full 4 quarts when the drain plug is removed. When we pull the drain plug there is still approximately 1/2 a quart left in the engine...that does not come out. Four quarts of new oil + 1/2 quart of old oil = 4 1/2 quarts of oil. If we don't take that fact into consideration and refill with 4 quarts of new oil then it would be easy to overfill. In cooler temperatures the engine might not get hot enough to cause problems but if we ride in hot weather and are cruising along at 70 mph the oil swells up and is puked out into the air cleaner (as it is the avenue of least resistence). I am not suggesting this is always the problem, but for many it is. The easy solution would be to put in three quarts of new oil and then check the dipstick. When the dipstick shows full, you should have approximately 1/2 quart left in the 4th bottle.
So why is this not pointed out in the owners manual? I suppose the manufacturer would think if they pointed out to owners the fact that not all the old oil drains out at an oil change, then that would be a little counter productive. I think they would be right in their assumption. But that does not change the fact.
So why is this not pointed out in the owners manual? I suppose the manufacturer would think if they pointed out to owners the fact that not all the old oil drains out at an oil change, then that would be a little counter productive. I think they would be right in their assumption. But that does not change the fact.
@ Retrop
The owners manual and the service manual state to fill the oil pan until the oil is 3 or 4 blocks up the dip stick can't remember right now. That is half way up the dipstick.
Ride the bike at least 30 minutes to get it to full operating temperature. Come back, and check it hot after letting it idle for 30-60 seconds. When hot the oil should be at the top of the dipstick marking it FULL.
Now. I never put remotely close to 4 quarts of oil in my 96" motor. If I do a complete filter and change of tranny and primary. I am left with about 1/3 quart of oil out of 5 quarts.
That breaks down like this. 1 quart primary, 1 quart in the tranny, and about 2 2/3 quarts in the engine, and then I will run it, and add a little if needed, but I never really do. The mearsurements in the manuals are just that. Measurments. You have to test real world to actually know. Do not go blindly adding per the recommendations. Always check your fluild level. Leave it a little short, and the test, and then add as needed to bring it up to spec.
If I added 4 quarts of oil to my engine I would have oil coming out my ears. LOL.
The owners manual and the service manual state to fill the oil pan until the oil is 3 or 4 blocks up the dip stick can't remember right now. That is half way up the dipstick.
Ride the bike at least 30 minutes to get it to full operating temperature. Come back, and check it hot after letting it idle for 30-60 seconds. When hot the oil should be at the top of the dipstick marking it FULL.
Now. I never put remotely close to 4 quarts of oil in my 96" motor. If I do a complete filter and change of tranny and primary. I am left with about 1/3 quart of oil out of 5 quarts.
That breaks down like this. 1 quart primary, 1 quart in the tranny, and about 2 2/3 quarts in the engine, and then I will run it, and add a little if needed, but I never really do. The mearsurements in the manuals are just that. Measurments. You have to test real world to actually know. Do not go blindly adding per the recommendations. Always check your fluild level. Leave it a little short, and the test, and then add as needed to bring it up to spec.
If I added 4 quarts of oil to my engine I would have oil coming out my ears. LOL.