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noise in primary

The ring gear(starter ring??????) IF that is not straight, I think you can Dead blow hammer it to being Straight... geezer has an answer for this...
Hey Ron geezer?????????

signed....BUBBIE
 
If it's just the ring gear that wobbles, is it possible it has shifted on the clutch basket?

There is a shoulder that the ring gear should be against and if it isn't, you can use a dead blow hammer to make sure it's against the shoulder. Once the ring gear is against the shoulder, it should be straight and in the right position for the starter gear. Just something you might want to check and would be a cheap fix.
 
If it's just the ring gear that wobbles, is it possible it has shifted on the clutch basket?

There is a shoulder that the ring gear should be against and if it isn't, you can use a dead blow hammer to make sure it's against the shoulder. Once the ring gear is against the shoulder, it should be straight and in the right position for the starter gear. Just something you might want to check and would be a cheap fix.
Wouldnt a bit oh heat on the ring gear all the way around it help to drve it back tro the shoulder? That is how we used to install them
 
2004 Heritage. Hearing a knocking noise, seems like it is inside the primary. Took off the derby cover and ran it, could hear the noise is coming from inside the primary. Took off the primary cover, didn't see anything unusual, chain tension is good, tentioner shoe is fine. Took the discs out of the clutch, everythings looks good. When I spin the clutch basket with the discs removed, i notice that the ring gear wobbles. The ring gear is not loose, the whole outer assembly it is attatched to wobbles. The trans mainshaft looks ok, although when I spin it I can hear some noise. I'm trying to find out if this all seems normal or indicates a problem.
After re reding this I am wondering how you are spinning the hub with the plates removed? Is the hub tightened ? You say the tranny main shaft looks OK, tho when you spin it it appears noisey? Is it possible the inner primary bearing is bad?
 
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Number 10 in this picture
 
I am wondering what "wobbling" means and what is wobbling. If the OP is saying he can move the clutch basket left/right or up/down, sounds like the clutch hub bearing is going south.

WRT to the compensator, the early model comp nuts would sometime "bottom out" when torque to spec which prevented the nut from achieving the clamping pressure which would result in compensator nuts coming loose from time to time. The MoCo adressed the issue with shims that would space the comp nut outboard and prevent it from bottoming out allowing proper clamping pressure when torqued to spec. As usual, before the MoCo addressed the issue, the DIY guys started milling .030" off the end of the comp nut to solve the problem. The attached diagram will illustrate.

 
It isn't the ring gear itself it is the clutch shell, I had look it up to find the name of it. I do have the clutch discs removed. I can spin the clutch hub in the center and when the clutch shell starts to turn I can see it doesn't run true, kinda like a warped brake rotor. When I watch the ring gear turn next to the starter gear as a reference I can see that the clutch shell moves in and out, but the clutch hub turns true.
 
If you have wobble between the shell & the hub then your hub bearing is bad. You shouldn't have any play between the two. The bearing is pressed into the shell then you press the hub into the bearing. Both being pressed there shouldn't be any play/wobble. You could have spun the bearing in the shell, or it wore out the hole for the bearing.
tourbox
 
For what its worth. My money says compensator nut. I have seen several around this year model that needed retorquing to spec. As always use red loctite. I cant remember the torque setting I think its 160 then another 45 degrees.
 
For what its worth. My money says compensator nut. I have seen several around this year model that needed retorquing to spec. As always use red loctite. I cant remember the torque setting I think its 160 then another 45 degrees.

Pre-'03, when the Timken crank bearing was still in use, comp torque value was 150-165 foot pounds. '03 went to the torque to value and then to an angle but don't recall the value for '04 or the angle. I would bet that the torque to value and then to an angle will produce near 200 foot pounds.
 
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