No spark

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by morpheus7of9, Dec 9, 2011.

  1. morpheus7of9

    morpheus7of9 New Member

    I have a 2006 Heritage. There was no spark to the plugs. Was turning over real good. No spark. Good fuel. The service dept. told me that the coil hardly goes bad. It might be the crankshaft sensor. I replaced it and it started. Then a couple of days later it did the same thing, so spark. I was also told to unhook the power commander and hook back up to the stock computer and I did, and still would not start. I change my oil every 5k miles. With Mobile 1 syth. oil. I have 70,000 miles on the bike. Could the stator be a factor?
  2. glider

    glider Veteran Member

    I doubt the stator has anything to do with the problem but here's how to check that out.

    Harley Davidson Community

    You may want to verify the wiring to the crank sensor.
  3. Breeze3at

    Breeze3at Well-Known Member

    Check all of the wires in the crankshaft position sensor connector(s). It's possible there is a bad/loose wire, and it moved when you put the new sensor in, then moved again. Man, electrical gremlins are the meanest. :(
  4. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

    What does "Good Fuel" mean? (The plugs are wet, the fuel itself is good & fresh or you have 60 PSI of line pressure?)

    Check to see if you have logged any DTC's. Leave the Power Commander un-hooked until you resolve the problem. It can stop codes from posting.
  5. R_W_B

    R_W_B Senior Member

    Well being it started afterwards (unless it's an intermitent thing) your coil sounds ok. It's possible something else is causing the CPK to fail. Test you current CPK to make sure it's still reading manual acceptable ohms (in case it failed also).

    Check all your fuses just to be complete. Definitely leave the PC disconnected while testing. A lot of folks have good service with the PC but others have had problems with them failing or blowing an internal fuse in the PC.

    A crude first step coil test is to read the ohms across the primary and then across the secondary terminals. The primary side shouldn't read much ohms (around 3 or so). If it reads zero it shorted, it reads real high it open.

    The secondary side should have a much much higer ratio increase (most times around 10,000 times higher) in the ohm reading.

    But if you can read the codes it throwing thru your odometer readout, Breeze and Hoople can really help you hone in on the problem.
  6. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Guest

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 11, 2011
  7. R_W_B

    R_W_B Senior Member

    I checked my manual (07 Dyna) and the ohms on either terminal of the CPK to ground should read at or above 1 megohm. Just disconnect it from the regulator and test the CPK side of the connector.

    I checked for a Dyna the primary coil side should only be between 0.3 and 0.5 ohms. I remembered 3 ohms from somewhere, maybe it was my truck. Anyhow if your coil is a sealed unit you will have to test the plug going in it.

    Mine has 4 wires (check your manual). The first (A) being the power supply from the system relay.

    The second (B) being the ION sensor (anti knock thing I think), just leave it out of the test.

    If you have a dual coil you will have 2 more (C & D) terminals. Test each of these (C & D) to terminal (A) for the primary side ohm test.

    You can also do a volt test to the first (A) terminal by testing the voltage on it after the key is turned on for 2 seconds. It should read 12 volts to grd.

    If it doesn't then you have to go deeper into the codes thrown. The wire could be broken between the system relay and the coil, but you really need to get those codes first.

    Then they can really hone in on it for you.
  8. R_W_B

    R_W_B Senior Member

    Well looks like morpheus7of9 has not been back on since Dec 9th, so I guess it's a mute issue. He's either riding alot or busy with chores like me and hasn't had time to check in.

    But just in case, I noticed I had my CKP ohms backward, it should have been below 1 megohm instead of above. I was trying to interpolate between actual terminal testing when the manual is written for a breakout box, which can be a problem for a guy like me. The breakout test I was reading was with the ECM disconected and only the harness connected up to the breakout. So I surmise it was combo diagnosing the line back from the CKP back to the ECM also for breaks or shorts.

    I should have caught my error since I've read elsewhere most "working" CKP's have anywhere from 700 to 1200 ohms across them. In any case I had it reversed.

    It also states that you can test volt pulse across the CKP terminals (on the CPK side) on the disconnected connector from Regulator to CKP. Set your volt meter to VAC (since the CKP is a mini magnet alternator). Then have someone else turn the engine over with the starter. You should read a minimum of 1 VAC (most times around 2.5 to 3 VAC) for a good CKP.

    Hopefully morpheus7of9 has gotten it fixed in any case.