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No oil psi

revok1200

Active Member
06' RG, 61K Miles, No engine mods, completely stock other than power commander and true duals, oil and filter changed between 3-5K Miles regularly.

Coming in to work yesterday I lost psi on the guage but had no light, thought maybe it was the guage or sending unit and I was only a mile from work so just drove it in.

When I got to work I shut it down, let it cool off a little and checked the oil level, level was within good range but toward the bottom. Started the bike back up and the oil light would not go out and had no psi. Also heard a ta-ting, ta-ting, ta-ting sound coming from the right side (so I think) didn't run the bike that long to investagate further on noise. I was heart broken as I put her on the trailer and took her home.

I am thinking something has happened to the oil pump. I have all the manuals and a slightly above average know how. I am just wondering what I am going to get myself into when I start pulling this thing apart?

Is there anything you think I should know up front, any special tools that may be needed, or any particular areas I need to pay attention to when I begin tear down and inspection, any specific pump problems? (I have and will continue to search through the self help area)

I know I don't have a visual yet, but from sound and no psi I think it is evident something is wrong.
 
61,000 miles, completely stock makes me think of cam chain tensioners gone. Pieces of the plastic/nylon often clog the oil pump. The noise you hear from right side is often indicative of this. Quick ways to check, drain oil or cut filter apart to see if there's orange particles in there. I wouldn't start it until you find out what it is.
P.S. I hope I'm wrong.
P.S. 2 There's lots of info in the self help section about changing tensioners
 
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DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE ANY MORE UNTIL YOU HAVE OPENED UP THE NOSE CONE AND HAD A LOOK.

If the tensioner(s) have nuked, you will need to clean up all the bits and pieces and replace or up-grade the tensioners. I strongly advocate up-grading to the roller chain conversion, but that is your choice. But the first thing is to clean out the cam chest of all the bits and pieces, change the oil filter (you might want to cut that open and see what is in it), replace the oil, do the up-grade or replace existing tensioner(s), clean out the oil by-pass port, and then run the engine for a short period and then change the oil and filter again.

Check out the stuff in self-help on this topic.

TQ
 
thanks all for the info.

I have three of you all pointing toward something other than I was thinking, and I value and respect the info and advice given on this site.

I rolled it off the trailer and pushed it in the garage and up on the jack.

I have made the decision to not rush anything with this repair. I usually try to hurry up and get things done so I can get back on the road, but this time I am going to take it slow and work my way around the bike tackling some maintenance that will be proactive and not reactive. But first will be taking care of this oil psi issue, getting the bike well again and then continuing on with preventive measures.

It will be hard especially with the great winter we are having in the south.

Out of curiousity, we did go into the teens this past week for our morning temps, and yes I ride all year, could the extreme cold temps have had anything to do with the failure, or is most likely just mileage?

I will keep you all posted on my progress.
 
Revok1200,
I hope everything goes well for you!!!


TQ,

How much do youthink that it would cost (Ball park) to do the up-grade if a dealer did it?
 
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TQ,

How much do youthink that it would cost (Ball park) to do the up-grade if a dealer did it?

From a dealer I would say probably around $1,200 for the roller chain conversion. You can save half that it you do it yourself. I just finished mine on friday and spent a little over $500. The project is much easier than it seems.
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Re: No oil psi UPDATE

From what I can see it has nothing to do with the cam chain tensioners.

no chips and both the tensioners are intact. Have included pics. They are worn but both are intact.

Have have found some small metal chips? (including a picture)

Everything inside looks intact and clean (regular oil changes and quality oil do help!)

Going to pull the psi switch and sender and make sure there is nothing looking odd there.
 
I would have to agree with all about the tensioners. especially if they have never been done. usually the tensioners are checked and or replaced at around 25-35k. or oil relief valve has become stuck either way you will have to open up the cam area if you have manuals this really is not to tuff a job.
 
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