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no oil pressure after cam & head change

I don't know if it applies also to HD oil pumps in general, but I know when building a cage engine you must/should pack the oil pump with assembly fluid or gear oil during installation in order for it to 1st time prime correctly.
i hope he used a liberal amount of assembly lube when reassembling,if not he could be buying a new pump & plate all ready
 
I don't know if it applies also to HD oil pumps in general, but I know when building a cage engine you must/should pack the oil pump with assembly fluid or gear oil during installation in order for it to 1st time prime correctly.

FIRST OFF suggested to REMOVE PLUGS,,,,,, GROUND THEM OUT while plugged onto spark-plug to the engine......
CRANK OVER USING STARTER or 5 gear turning rear wheel and SEE if the oil pumps up... IF NOT tear back down and LOOK. o ring or ?

IT DOES TAKE a little time to get oil UP....

just MY WAY

signed....BUBBIE
 
Chopper,

At this point I'm disgusted that I have to completely dissamble everything but I think I'll go ahead and pull the cam plate to verify everything is in place. I'm so sick of grinding these lowers that I'm about ready to buy the S&S boxes that are made to fit 1.66 springs and just be done with it. I'm a fairly patient man but this is getting ridiculous.
I know what you mean about those boxes, I used to highly recommend that customers buy the Harley boxes that were clearance for the springs and roller rockers, it's a fine line between not enough and too much, the thing I didn't like was grinding chrome rockers boxes because sometimes the chrome would want to flake around the edges where you ground. It'll all come together, remember it's just a machine, you'll get it.
 
it's just a machine, you'll get it.

I use that line all the time at work and home! Its a great piece of advice.

Bodeen
 
Thanks for all advice guys. I did use assembly lube on everything and yes, the tank is full of oil. I may just stop at HD and check on the clearanced boxes. Thanks again.
 
Bubbie,

Quick question, what is the purpose of shorting the plugs when turning the bike over? Why not just remove the plugs completely and turn it over?
 
The plugs need to be shorted so the circuit is complete when turning over. If the circuit is not complete, ecm senses a problem and other electronical things I don't know about.
 
what is the purpose of shorting the plugs when turning the bike over? Why not just remove the plugs completely and turn it over?

What happens is by not grounding the spark plug wire you are asking the coil to put out maximum votage to jump a gap that it will not be able to jump.. Since the coil is epoxy filled, it may be easier for the coil to spike through the epoxy to get the voltage to ground. Once that happens the coil is toast. The coil will no longer will be able to put out maximum voltage since the epoxy pinhole inside the coil is easier to jump.
 
What happens is by not grounding the spark plug wire you are asking the coil to put out maximum votage to jump a gap that it will not be able to jump.. Since the coil is epoxy filled, it may be easier for the coil to spike through the epoxy to get the voltage to ground. Once that happens the coil is toast. The coil will no longer will be able to put out maximum voltage since the epoxy pinhole inside the coil is easier to jump.


JUST exactly WHAT HOOP SAYS!
YEP I KNEW Hoople would WORD it RIGHT... thanks Hoop!

Yes and i did ruin a coil once ?
?If it was from cranking over without grounding the spark plug wires? but it was toasted a little later and I attributed that to NOT grounding.... .... and YES I wasn't too clear on spark plugs are out... wires grounded...

signed....BUBBIE
 
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