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New SE comp

gone thru with the Grooving the boss to allow oil to get in BUT not much help..

Bubbie, The grooving is not working out & the hub is still fretting even with the grooves? I have not checked my hub since I grooved it.
 
I took my compensator off at 3200 miles after I grooved the sprocket. I found minor fretting, nothing like it was without the grooves, but still a bit. The sprocket and hub did have a film of oil on them so some oil is getting in there. Maybe not enough??
 
I took my compensator off at 3200 miles after I grooved the sprocket. I found minor fretting, nothing like it was without the grooves, but still a bit. The sprocket and hub did have a film of oil on them so some oil is getting in there. Maybe not enough??

What size grooves did you cut in your compensator.
I went pretty deep and wide on the 3 grooves. A solid 1/8" (.125") wide and maybe .080" deep. I also flared out the leading edge of each groove to try and make a "funnel" for the oil to get in.
I need to pull the primary cover off to see how it is doing but wanted to give it at least 5K - 7.5K miles which is right about now.
 
Not only did I put the groove at the base of each spoke, I ran a spiral grove across the face of the smooth sprocket bore extending from each of the the original grooves. So far, it is smooth and quiet and I don't plan on taking it apart again if it remains that way.
 
I ran a spiral grove across the face of the smooth sprocket bore extending from each of the the original grooves.

Cool Idea. Did you free hand it using a die grinder or do you have access to real machining tools.
 
Purely free hand, with any luck, no one will ever see it. If I had thought of it at the time, I'd have connected front and back face slots on the next adjacent spoke using the spiral, but as they are, they are just random spirals, and not much deeper than scratches.

Just remembered, the spoke/cam faces were rough, again looking like any lube had gotten squeezed out and it was metal to metal. Just to the inside of each wear face on each spoke, I also made a shallow radial slot to hopefully supply oil to the rubbing faces centrifugally. The slots just barely extended into the wear face so that oil wouldn't sling right on through and out the other side. Should have consulted with my son, the engineer, but once I had the Dremmel screaming, I just couldn't stop. :)
 
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I have about 4000 miles on my SE Comp installation. At about 3000 miles it started making noise. It has been rattling so bad I thought it was loose, pulled to cover to check out what was going on and it was all as it should be so I put it back together, but the noise remains. First time I heard it I thought a lifter had colapsed because the rattle sound like an old 70's chevy with a bad cam lobe. Someone mentioned a plastic washer to replace the fiber friction washer, is there a part number for this available? I have to say that I will try that washer but it it still rattles after that I am pulling it out and going back to the stock one from my 09. This was a great fix that has really turned sour in a short period of time.
 
What lube are you using in the primary? Mine began making noise when I tried some special application primary lube about the same viscosity as ATF. I went back to 20-50 engine oil and things got better. After taking mine apart and seeing the wear, I am trying 75W 140 EP dino gear lube. So far I am very pleased with the smooth and quiet, clutch engagement is very nice. Only time and mileage will tell if this will crater or turn out to be a good idea with the new comp.
 
I got about 7k on my comp change and also did grooves but mine were .250 wide and .080 deep also feathered sides, Haven't looked to see how good it's gettn lubed but had an issue with a chatter at 50 to 70 mph not constantly but also depending how the bike was traveling down road, Found out guy who helped me only put a quart of oil in instead of the 45oz recommended, I even put a few extra oz's and no more chatter. Clutch is good and no issues with neutral.. BTW also running amsoil 20/50
 
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