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New ECM Programmable Before Delivery?

Keep in mind that even one strand of wire will show continuity while it isn't enough to operate the injector.

Rich,

Glider is exactly right. Hanging on by 1 strand won't throw a code but there won't be enough current flow to trigger the injector. Injectors do draw a couple of amps and since the pulse is so short, the current must peak instantly.
Since the wiring harness is fixed to the frame and the injectors are on the engine, those wires get a workout. I am surprised they last as long as they do.
 
Hey Rich, I'll give you $35 for your bad ECM.:D
I tell you what...once the new one fixes it, you can have it. I believe they are hard epoxy encapsulated, so fixing a poor solder joint will be a fun project.

In any case, I will give the wiring harness a good going over. I would be a nitwit not to, not that I am not a nitwit, mind you. I just wouldn't want you guys to have your suspicions validated :s

I hope it ain't, but if it is the ECM, I'm researching the ramifications of going with a closed-loop ThunderMax. That way, at least that much "proprietary" roadblocking will be history. I can do lots of cool stuff with my own laptop. However, that will require adding O2 bungs to my current headpipes, or getting a set of True-Dual headpipes with bungs installed. I might get the Thundermax without the closed-loop module for now, and add closed loop later, if it appears to be warranted. I'm just thinking...

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
In any case, I will give the wiring harness a good going over. I would be a nitwit not to, not that I am not a nitwit, mind you. I just wouldn't want you guys to have your suspicions validated :s

Have you found out any more about this.... Cable was fine and you getting a New ECM?
 
Have you found out any more about this.... Cable was fine and you getting a New ECM?
Drooling eh? No ECM for you :newsmile011:

Found an intermittent inside the front injector connector (TFI connector...bad crimp, etc). I tried to pull the pin to see, but apparently a special extraction tool needed. Without the code, I might never have found it. I still almost missed it. I could move the wires all over the place and no disconnect. However, if I position the wires "just so", and move them from there, "just so", one wire opened right up.

Dobeck stepped right up, and put a new tuner in the mail right away (very small amount from me, and Dallas bumped me from a TFI to a GEN3). I'm waiting for it at the moment. Dobeck customer support has always been superb.

Meanwhile, I removed the TFI, and installed the stock airbox, so I can run with the stock fuel map without burning up my scoot. I am back on the road, if it would only quit raining around here. So far so good.

Either the TFI interferes with open injector circuitry (there is a patented [Dallas said] several K of resistance in line with the injector drive from the ECM), or the ECM requires many cycles of continuous open before a code is thrown. Either that, or the injector line status is only polled, at some infrequent rate. I was amazed how bad she had to run before the code was thrown (she did it on the way home before I could get her home for investigation, almost did not make it). I think it is the polling option, since she improved for quite a time before the code went to historic again.

Note: Please know that removing the TFI ground does not remove all TFI circuitry from the injector drive. There remains the wiring harness, and some proprietary circutry still line with the drive.

I am going to ride this puppy for a significant period. I'm a bit gun-shy by now, since I have found so many things stacked, that cause the same symptoms: fuel line pin holes, varnished fuel system resulting in sticky pressure regulator, leaky intake seals, cracked rear headpipe...After a couple of good long runs with the club, I'll put the tuner back in and stage-1 airbox back on.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
Injector open means the harness wire could have a fracture on the inside. Did you wiggle wire with continuity beeper?

Rich

It was right in front of us all the time...

Wiggle the injector harness wire right near the injector itself with the bike running and see if it stumbles. There were problems with the early 2000 bikes with the harness being strapped to tightly from the factory and the engine rocking in the rubber mounts would break the copper in the injector wire right near the plug where it connects to the injector. The insulation still looks like it's OK but the copper inside is broken and would respond to temp changes with a sporadic miss.

Maybe get it hot before you do this and use a stick or something to keep from burning your hand because it seems to be acting up when it's hot.


Shoulda listened to Hoop and I. :lolrolling Remember these are Harleys, they all do that!

Glad you found the problem in any event, right Hoop? Take a bow!!! :laugh
 
Shoulda listened to Hoop and I.

Glad you found the problem in any event, right Hoop? Take a bow!!! :laugh


Thank You Glider,,,, And you also!, Take a bow.

As you know, the "Reward" in forums such as this is when you hear the words Thank You!. So I will Thank you and you can Thank me.:D
 
Thank you Hoop! :laugh

And the dealer made ZERO other than parts, that's the best part.:newsmile011:
 
Dealer got nothing but the shotgun work. Most parts purchased from Zanotti's.

I did wiggle the injector wires, many times, during many sessions, and got nothing. Intermittent connection was not in the wire, but deep in the injector connector. I could hold the connector in my hand and move the wires all around, with no break. In order to find the break, I had to hold the connector in my hand, and position the wires just so, then move them just so. Otherwise, no break detected. I she had not thrown the code, I would have missed it, until I pulled the TFI completely out, which was next, and is as it is now.

I do appreciate the help from all who contributed. Thank you. Ihave made a contribution to the site in appreciation.

We may not be done yet. We have just found the next contributor in the line. I'll ride her as is for a while, to see what else may be there.

One thing that helped, and I strongly recommend it, is the addition of Herko's fuel crossover line quick-disconnect, auto-sealing, fittings. I can now remove my tank, or install it, while full, in 5-10 minutes. Pricey but worth it. Now I can access the backbone and wiring harness anytime I want, with little hassle.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
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