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New ECM Programmable Before Delivery?

RibEye

Senior Member
I am looking to replace my ECM. They apparently come blank. Can the ECM be pre-configured for my bike, before shipment, or does it have to be installed on the bike to be set up for my bike? I would think that knowing the year and model, there is a standard setup, but I might be missing something.

The dealer wants a minimum hour labor, on top of the ECM cost (+ special order shipping), to program it, and they want to do it on the bike. I would prefer to buy it from Zanotti's or Chicago Harley, and install it myself.

Frankly, I'm sick of being held over the barrel by the MOCO and dealerships, and am considering going with a Thundermax...HD proprietary tools and configurators to the dumper.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Rich P
 
When the ECM was replaced on my 2008 it to came blank and needed Digitech to download and program ECM. I believe you need to put in the VIN in Digitech and then perform download from H.D. files.
 
Frankly, I'm sick of being held over the barrel by the MOCO and dealerships, and am considering going with a Thundermax...HD proprietary tools and configurators to the dumper.

You think this is bad? Try a Metric product. Talk about proprietary, Metric is the KING of proprietary.

Another ECM?.. Didn't you just change one out for a missing reference voltage not long ago?
 
You think this is bad? Try a Metric product. Talk about proprietary, Metric is the KING of proprietary.

Another ECM?.. Didn't you just change one out for a missing reference voltage not long ago?
I have not replaced the ECM yet. That must have been someone else on HDT. Just about everything else though. She still has an intermittent stutter. I have rebuilt the fuel delivery system (lines, pump, regulator, filter, injectors). I have rebuilt the throttlebody (sensors, gaskets, seals). Every other sensor is new also. New coil, plug wires, plugs. I have replaced stuff I knew was not the problem, since it was only a few bucks more, and as long as I was in there...

I have taken it to indies, the dealership, etc. They all say "We fixed it", only to have teh issue return in a couple days to a couple weeks. All the pros did was fire a shotgun ("Lets try this", I guess). It is not throwing codes, and has no stored historicals. I can fire a shotgun for alot less than pros, and will know what was done, and how it was done. All I got for several hundred to the pros is a scratched tank, and an untouched issue. Frankly, I would love to give it to a pro and say "Fix it", and I have done so. No love yet.

I did find a sticky pressure regulator, but its symptoms just climbed up on top of the current issue, which has been here for over 18 months. The pressure regulator issues cleared up, but not the underlying issue. The problem with these things is that so many things can cause apparently identical symptoms.

This weekend I'm taking off the TFI and putting the stock AC back on. If the issue remains, all there is left is wiring harness, ignition switch, run/kill switch, TSSM, security kill relay, and ECM...literally. I feel like a sucker at a carnival game...too much invested now to walk away, but I can't afford to keep feeding the kitty. I'm losing my job soon...

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
There's also the possibility of low fuel pressure, it may not be constant but when this problem happens. I don't recall your troubleshooting from before but have you verified the fuel pressure? It would be nice to see what it was under load too.
 
There's also the possibility of low fuel pressure, it may not be constant but when this problem happens. I don't recall your troubleshooting from before but have you verified the fuel pressure? It would be nice to see what it was under load too.
Fuel pressure has always "measured" fine. In any case, everything that would affect fuel "pressure" is brand new (pump, filter, regulator, internal lines, external rail line, injectors). To measure it under load would require a dyno run or hanging the test guage off the side and ride. I don't want to pay for the first, and they are not likely to do the 2nd. Both indy and dealer have repeatedly measured and came up "on the money" (minimum 1-hour labor each time...one of those "proprietary" tools).

Keep shooting. I'm not challenging, just responding. You might catch something I have not considered. This will be one for the books. Trust me. When finallly solved, I will be applying for an HD certification on spark, fuel, and air...just kidding, but learning alot is not helping me so far.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
The problem is at least pretending to be a thermal one. Runs fine cold, until the enrichment is tapered off. As I have gone around 3-4 miles, the issue starts tapering in. Could be vibration but I doubt it, since it does not matter w/respect to rough or smooth road. I personally am voting on a fractured solder joint in the ECM (or TFI), that starts loosing connectivity as the board heats up. I will know for sure it is not the TFI by the end of the weekend. I'm disconnecting its ground tonight, and putting on the stock air box (so I don't burn up the bike, running it with stage-1 and no fuel addition).

There is truly not much left electrically. I can't think of anything mechanical in the engine itself, but I am an electronic and software engineer. I suppose a sticking/collapsing lifter, but I would likely hear that. Cam tensioner feet are in very good condition. No leaks of any kind. No excessive vibration other that what could be attributed to the stuttering. Exhaust is dry and relatively clean. Plugs are reading good.

I'm running out of options (and cash)...

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
Both indy and dealer have repeatedly measured and came up "on the money" (minimum 1-hour labor each time...one of those "proprietary" tools).

A $60 work around for proprietary. :)
 

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Take a look around on the coil for any carbon tracking. It looks like a thin pencil line on the coil especially around the coil turrets and could possibly cause a problem like you are having.
 
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