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BOWHIKER

Junior Member
I know I've read it some where before but I'll ask again . Getting ready to change my primary oil , I have the correct size torx bit #27 , I have a hand impact driver the kind you tap with a hammer , is it ok to use it to loosen the screws or could I damage the threads on the screws or the threads where they screw into ? Second is it a good idea to use some never seeze when putting the screws back in or should I use some locktite , my manual doesn't say anything about using either one on the threads . I do know what to torque them to also .
 
SHOULD BE A DRAIN PLUG IN THE PRIMARY never heard anyone putting lock tite on them . sounds like ur going to pull the whole cover off , dont think u have to
 
I take it you are talking about removing the derby cover
I would use the hand impact driver on the screws holding the cover on just a couple of strong taps with the hammer should do it and i put copper grease on the threads before fitting the screws back in
the copper grease i think it is similar to never seeze puts a barrier between the steel screws and the alloy primary cover and this prevents the chemical reaction between the 2 metals that cause the screws to stick

Brian
 
Yes use some Antisieze and use a criss cross torque pattern:D
 
I know I've read it some where before but I'll ask again . Getting ready to change my primary oil , I have the correct size torx bit #27 , I have a hand impact driver the kind you tap with a hammer , is it ok to use it to loosen the screws or could I damage the threads on the screws or the threads where they screw into ? Second is it a good idea to use some never seeze when putting the screws back in or should I use some locktite , my manual doesn't say anything about using either one on the threads . I do know what to torque them to also .

The derby cover screws should not be torqued down that much (unless the last one to change the oil didn't use a torque wrench or went to max recommended torque) to need much more than a gentle tug on the socket to break them free.
I've never had any need (yet) to resort to using an impact driver on mine. As for the screws, I use Loctite Thread Sealant on them.

Just be sure to install them using a good quality torque wrench ($5 wrenches need not apply). Your service manual (I hope you've picked one up already) will have the recommended torque values. I start with torqueing the screws to the lowest value recommended.
 
My 07 FLHR (TC 96) call for the following Torque spec:
Drain plug: 14-21 ft-lbs.
Clutch Inspection cover: 84 – 108 in lbs (note: inch pounds for the derby cover)
Use a torque sequence of 12 – 7 – 2 – 10 – 5 o’clock. (The criss cross pattern Jack refers to above)
I use the T27 on a 3/8 socket drive; Have not had to use any impact device
 
If this is the first time removing the Derby cover and it has been on for awhile, using the impact wrench WITHOUT hammer is usually enough as it grips easily in the hand and with a tight fitting bit in the fastener it should come off with no drama. Only if one or more do not come off easily should you need the impact function.

As Fin_676 said copper anti-seize prevents electrolysis from seizing fasteners so they come out the next time. There are screwdriver type torque wrenches that fit Torx or Hex Bits. Above all, if you have any question about the fasteners...just replace them with new stainless ones. If you prefer Hex to Torx do that as well...HD ones are perhaps $15-$20 or
 
Also, don't forget to get a new derby cover gasket...some re-use, but I don't take any chances when oil's in the mix. Drain oil, swap derby, add oil & test drive - good luck!
 
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