NEED HELP! Alright boys and girls, here is a brain teaser!

Discussion in 'Softail Models' started by problemsolver, Aug 2, 2008.

  1. problemsolver

    problemsolver Member

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    I have a 1994 Heriftage Softail, FLSTC. I had a problem with my charging system. Which left me on the side of the road. I checked the stator and it was shot. So, I replaced it along with the battery and the voltage regulator. Now, I got the bike running and it will only run at high RPMs. If the RPMS drop the bike will just shut off. It is like something is drawing. Also, while the bike is running if I push the horn button the bike will shut down. It is like using that little bit of extra juice for the horn kills the bike. I checked the wiring harnass and can find no short. I checked the coil and on the primary side I am getting a reading of 4 Ohms. The manual said It should be between 2.5 and 3.1 ohms. Could the coil be the isssue? Or maybe the ignition module? When I pulled the Stator I noticed a bare wire that had worn against the case causing its failure. Maybe it also shorted something else out? NEED HELP!
     
  2. softailsteve

    softailsteve Active Member

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    I would start back at the stator first charge the battery un plug the voltage reg. put a meter on the stator leads where they come through case (plug) at 1500 rpms you should read if memory serves me correct approx. 60 volts AC I know you already replaced but you need to eliminate the rest of the charging system this procedure should be in the manual
     
  3. problemsolver

    problemsolver Member

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    Thanks for the reply. With the bike running I checked at the battery with the meter. It read 14.25. This seems to be a good reading. I also checked the stator and got a reading of 41.25 AC Volts. Do you think this is a low reading. The book states; it should be 32-40 AC Volts per 1000 RPMs
     
  4. softailsteve

    softailsteve Active Member

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    That sounds like good reading , I would put a volt meter on the battery with the moter running and see what the voltage does at idle then when you shut it down I'm sure you checked the connections on the battery but you may want to check the connections elsewhere like the ignition switch , module etc. monitor the voltage and operate every thing posible horn hi-beam lowbeam brake light while checking for a drop in voltage good luck its probably something simple but electrical gremlins can drive you nuts also check for a bad ground should be a ground bus where all grounds are connected could be loose or corroded again GOOD LUCK.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2008
  5. problemsolver

    problemsolver Member

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    With the bike off I am getting a reading from the battery of 12.25 DC Volts. With the Bike running I am getting a reading of 14.25 volts on the battery. I cannot check to see what is happening when the bike is at idle because I cannot let the RPMS down or it will stall. Also, if I push the horn button it will kill the engine. Now, if I open the throttle up and check the AC Volts
    cross the stator I am getting a reading of 41.25 AC Volts. Shouldn't this number be higher if it is 32-40 volts per 1000 RPMS?
     
  6. problemsolver

    problemsolver Member

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    I want to thank all for the help
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2008
  7. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Being that the bike doesn't run at slow speeds, have you thought to check for intake leaks causing it? Possibly a VOES vacuum line off or broken?
     
  8. dangerdan

    dangerdan Junior Member

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    When you replaced the stator did you use an impact gun ?
    You may have fixed the orginal problem by replacing the stator , but if an impact gun was used, it very possible the magnets in the rotor were misaligned/loosened or may have lost some of their magnetism.

    This might explain why higher RPM are required to provided the correct voltage to keep the bike running.
     
  9. Fossil

    Fossil Active Member

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    The same folks on here who are trying to help you did the same for me. They were patient and evaluated each thing I tried and suggested where to go from there. WE finally got my Evo charging and charging good. They wanted me to load test the battery and then check out the rectifier and stator per manual. Did you unlplug the rectifier while the bike was running? I shorted mine that way. If you have to keep the bike rpm up to keep it running then do as they say. Check the loes hose, petcock filter in tank, low jet of carburetor and what else they want you to check. Fossil
     
  10. problemsolver

    problemsolver Member

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    Alright, I knew there were a few guys left out there that wrench on their own machines. I did not put the Rotor on with a impact. It was torqued down to 165lbs with a wrench and locktight. I checked out the entire charinging system with a multi-meter and everything is within specs. I am in the process on going thru the wiring harnass with the meter. I am going to post the out-come so if anyone else comes across this problem bizarre problem they have something to work with. This is a tough one!