MAP Sensor
- Thread starter jwbro
- Start date
JBC2565
Junior Member
Welcome to the forum. Also from VA (NW corner).
Map sensor is on the intake manifold. MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure.
Buy a HD service manual (or download one for $10 from internet). Pays for itself many times over and get to know your bike better as well as knowing the job is done correctly.
Also found this link from Glider. Good luck.
Harley Davidson Community
Map sensor is on the intake manifold. MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure.
Buy a HD service manual (or download one for $10 from internet). Pays for itself many times over and get to know your bike better as well as knowing the job is done correctly.
Also found this link from Glider. Good luck.
Harley Davidson Community
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I would suggest you invest in the factory manual if you are going to be doing your own work.
http://www.hdtimeline.com/diagnostics_and_fuel_injection_related/15575-induction_module.html
http://www.hdtimeline.com/diagnostics_and_fuel_injection_related/15575-induction_module.html
jwbro
Member
Thanks for the welcome. I do have a factory manual at home, but I am stuck in Iraq for the next 3-4 months and wanted some info to get a head start before I got home. Thanks again.
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No symptoms other than check engine light came on when I rode it to the dealer for a state inspection. The bike runs fine, no back fire, no stuttering, idles good.
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No symptoms other than check engine light came on when I rode it to the dealer for a state inspection. The bike runs fine, no back fire, no stuttering, idles good.
Last edited by a moderator:
Hoople
Account Removed
Welcome to the forum. Thank you for your service and keeping us here safe.
I am surprised you would have no issues with your bike. I would expect poor fuel mileage, surging under acceleration etc. What is the average elevation the bike is used at.
Check for codes yourself just to be sure.
jwbro
Member
Thank you. I live at 1800 feet elevation. I'm guessing that downtown is probably 800 to 1000. Fuel mileage is still fairly good. Dealer said he they ran a check on it when the engine light was on and code came back to replace MAP sensor. I haven't checked the code personally. Dealer in Roanoke normally has done good work for me, just too pricey.
Hoople
Account Removed
If you go by the service manual, changing the map sensor on a fuel injected bike is a number of steps. The map sensor is installed in the induction (intake) manifold. I don't know why, but the service manual does say to remove the induction module first before replacing the map sensor. It says if you attempt to remove the map sensor while the intake manifold is still installed, it will damage the map sensor.
I never have replaced that part so I don't know why damage would happen to the map sensor. But once you have the induction manifold removed, the sensor comes right out. In order to remove the intake manifold, you must remove the fuel tank.
I am sure the dealership would charge a couple of hours to do the job. I really wonder why you must remove the induction manifold first. Others may chime in with the answer to that.
I never have replaced that part so I don't know why damage would happen to the map sensor. But once you have the induction manifold removed, the sensor comes right out. In order to remove the intake manifold, you must remove the fuel tank.
I am sure the dealership would charge a couple of hours to do the job. I really wonder why you must remove the induction manifold first. Others may chime in with the answer to that.
RibEye
Senior Member
The MAP sensor is retained (held in) by the throttle stop bracket, which simply overhangs the map sensor. This bracket is retained by one of the screws (from the top) that holds in the IAC control, and one from the side, into the throttle body. The one into the throttle body should come out with no problem, but the one holding the IAC control has a loctite patch that requires heating the screw pretty well to get it to release. If you don't, you are likely to break the screw off in the throttle body, trying to get it out. That would be bad news.
It would be beneficial to get the induction module hardware kit, which will provide a variety of o-rings, and hardware that should be replaced at this point. Also, you will need fresh intake manifold seals.
It really is best to remove the induction module for adequate access. When you put the induction back on, the manual refers to an alignment plate to get it all lined back up. Just know that your airbox backing plate will work just as well.
Clean all of your connector contacts with DeOxit D5, and put some silicone dielectric grease around the connector seals.
Also, remember to relieve the fuel rail pressure before disconnecting the line from the tank or the injector fuel rail. You do that by removing the fuel pump fuse and spinning the engine with the starter for 3 secs past where it quits running. Fuel rail pressure is near 60 PSI so you don't want to damage the o-ring in the tank quick disconnect, or get pressurized fuel in your face.
Enjoy,
Rich P
It would be beneficial to get the induction module hardware kit, which will provide a variety of o-rings, and hardware that should be replaced at this point. Also, you will need fresh intake manifold seals.
It really is best to remove the induction module for adequate access. When you put the induction back on, the manual refers to an alignment plate to get it all lined back up. Just know that your airbox backing plate will work just as well.
Clean all of your connector contacts with DeOxit D5, and put some silicone dielectric grease around the connector seals.
Also, remember to relieve the fuel rail pressure before disconnecting the line from the tank or the injector fuel rail. You do that by removing the fuel pump fuse and spinning the engine with the starter for 3 secs past where it quits running. Fuel rail pressure is near 60 PSI so you don't want to damage the o-ring in the tank quick disconnect, or get pressurized fuel in your face.
Enjoy,
Rich P