maladjusted pushrods

[TQuentin1]

What I do is:

• Pull the sparkplugs
• Put the tranny in 5th or 6th gear
• Jack up the rear wheel just off the ground
• Collapse the pushrod covers
• Collapse the pushrods and remove (mark each where it came from)
• Rotate the rear wheel and watch the lifters for: Exhaust open then close, Intake open then closing
• Next time piston is at top of stroke is TDC for that cylinder (use straw in sparkplug hole to feel piston at top of stroke)
• Adjust pushrods
• Walk away for 20-30 minutes
• Check that pushrods turn easily with thumb and forefinger
• Button up pushrod covers
• Repeat for other cylinder

Then I do the whole thing with rotating the engine by hand with the rear wheel followed by turning it over with the starter. As long as no noises, I reinstall the plugs and back it out!!

If you were not at compression TDC, but were at the top of the exhaust stroke, I don't think you would have been able to adjust both of the PRs the full amount and still be able to easily rotate them with your thumb and forefinger. The intake lifter would have been riding up the lobe on the camshaft and I don't think you would have enough collapse on the lifter plunger to allow for it to collapse enough for the PR to turn easily. So as long as that step was followed, I am thinking that you probably did NOT mess up. HOPEFULLY!!!

Cheers,

TQ

 

[stray dog]

Ron, hang in there!

Did you align your oil pump with the tapered pins?


Hopefully your just sumping like Dolt said. Hopefully!

Even if you figure out you are, I would compression or leak down test before pulling the cam cover. You may have more than one problem.
Not everybody has a leak down kit handy but compression testers can be loaned from auto parts stores if you or a friend doesn't have one.
The leak down is the way to go but a compression test can tell a lot. If you get good numbers and both cyl's are close in numbers you're probably good to go.

At least a couple of quick and cheap tests can lead you on.

 

[dolt]

Ron, hang in there!

Did you align your oil pump with the tapered pins?
View attachment 16046

Hopefully your just sumping like Dolt said. Hopefully!

Even if you figure out you are, I would compression or leak down test before pulling the cam cover. You may have more than one problem.
Not everybody has a leak down kit handy but compression testers can be loaned from auto parts stores if you or a friend doesn't have one.
The leak down is the way to go but a compression test can tell a lot. If you get good numbers and both cyl's are close in numbers you're probably good to go.

At least a couple of quick and cheap tests can lead you on.

The alignment pins are not trust worthy. Even if you use the pins, you still should insert fasteners in opposite corners (or the pins) and rotate the crank via the rear wheel while progressively tightening the corner fasteners or pins. The alignment is align the flat side of the gerotors with the flat side of the pinion shaft as well as aligning/centering the gerotors within the pump housing.

Having said that, poor pump alignment is not the only thing to look for when sumping is suspected. The wrong, missing or improperly installed o-ring between the pump spigot and the scavenge port is quite often the offender; that should be checked as well.

I don't disagree that compression test is a good idea and if numbers are weak, then a leak down test. However, just because compression is good, the OP should check for sumping and clear that issue as well. if the motor is sumping, compression good and the OP just takes off, he will soon know something else is wrong. Since he has been in the cam chest and this is his first time and the "laboring" symptoms he describes are indicative of sumping, taking the 15 minutes required to pull the crank case plug is pretty easy and the OP will know if he has a sumping problem or not.:hii