I am concerned about my oil pressure when the engine is hot. I had a stage three upgrade on my 02 twin cam 88.(carb). Went with the HD roller chain conversion kit with the upgrade oil pump. Even installed the Bailsey spring.Installed an Arlen Ness oil gauge to keep an eye on things. When the engine is cold pressure is at up around 40+lbs. When hot (at idle) pressure is at zero. I had all work professionlly done.Using Castrol 20/50 non syn. Should I be worried ? or is this normal. Thanks for any input.
low oil pressure
- Thread starter xxspark
- Start date
The4opps1
Junior Member
I think it's fair to day that when oil gets hot, it's viscosity drops. Regardless of what you do, hot oil is more than likely not going to give you the oil pressure that cool oil will. Is it a problem? As one responder to your querry noted, that depends. My '99 Ultra has the updated hydraulic tensioners, the high volume oil pump, an oil cooler and I run Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic. During the hotter months, when the motor has been running a while, if I pull up to a light, the oil pressure drops to the "0-10" pound range. As soon as I give the motor throttle, it climbs back up. As has been pointed out on numerous occaisions in this forum, HD gauges are not "lab quality". That is, when the gauge reads "32" it could be actually 35 or 27 pounds per sq". And for what it's worth, the exact reading, IMO, doesn't really matter. I see the gauge as an indicator. If every time I ride, I am constantly at "32" regardless of conditions, and then one day I'm at "15", it bears looking into. But truthfully, I have ridden all day and had the pressure stay pegged at "32", and then ridden the next day, in virtually the same set of circumstances and the pressure didn't get over "25". For me, I glance at the guages every so often. But staying focused on a set of gauges that have limited accuracy takes away from the enjoyment of the ride. As a final note, make sure your idle RPM is set at specs. When my idle is set at about 1000, there is a difference in hot oil pressure at idle.....
Hoople
Account Removed
Everything you said is True but how is it related to the thread. Sorry but I must be missing your point. Are you saying the OP should just ride the bike and there is nothing to worry about. I would think some testing should be done first.
Has this been the case ever since you had the work done, or have things degraded to this point? When the Baisley was installed, was the port swabbed out and a new plunger used? Finally, the Baisley is definitely completely above the roll pin, right? (i.e., no coils below the roll pin).
TQ
Thank you all for your comments on this issue. The build was just completed a few weeks ago and I have been taking it easy because of the break in period. The work was performed by a professional shop and the mech. knows his stuff. He said there is no spec. for pressure at idle and to check it at 2000 rpm.(hot), should be at 40psi. and feels things are allright.If there is a problem won't the oil light come on?..... Thanks
Hoople
Account Removed
It does not have to be published for me to tell you it's not ZERO. Sure it can be as simple as a bad or inaccurate gauge. But you won't know that until you test the accuracy of the existing gauge. I am sure you engine builder is a very sharp guy but does it make sense that you or he should risk a multi thousand dollar engine build on a $20 gauge. You said the gauge reads Zero, not about Zero or almost zero but Zero. If it is Zero at idle, you have no oil flow. Oil flow is what cools the engine bearings.
Almost Zero and ZERO are two different things. If I had Almost zero or Near Zero oil pressure I would look into it the first chance I had. If I had ZERO oil pressure I would turn Off The KEY. But that's just me.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Better find a new builder. there should be a number at idle, try a master gauge and see what you read, if you have no pressure at idle bye bye
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
Just another Few Questions here.... What was your IDLE pressure on Old Build? (before) the new(oil pump) build?
I know different pump. but what was it before? on old? low and high please.
Also you didn't mention what the IDLE oil pressure shows NOW on Cold,,, this will help in my thoughts..
If you have the LOW pressure light system still on the bike and oil light doesn't go ON it should be OKAY.
So go ride it like you stole it!
right hoople
signed....BUBBIE
I know different pump. but what was it before? on old? low and high please.
Also you didn't mention what the IDLE oil pressure shows NOW on Cold,,, this will help in my thoughts..
If you have the LOW pressure light system still on the bike and oil light doesn't go ON it should be OKAY.
So go ride it like you stole it!
right hoople
signed....BUBBIE
Thanks guys. BUBBIE you have been with me from the start of this build. I did not have a pressure gauge before the upgrade. Always relied on the dash light.I spent the extra $$$$ for the Arlin Ness gauge thinking it was the best for the money. The oil pressure is 40psi t0 50psi when cold. Thought I would be in better shape with the high flow pump and the Baisley spring. Am I expecting too much?