looking for the right torque wrench

[Spade5]

I'm not mechanic but am an old school low tech guy I guess and prefer the beam type. I bought a 60 in/lb and a 600 in/lb off Amazon for not a lot of money to go with my 150 ft/lb I have had forever.

I have never used the click type but have heard all kinds of horror stories about the cheap ones.

Another reason I like the beam type is you can watch the torque build. Of course you have to be able to see the scale which can sometimes be awkward and a clicker would be better.

Some will use the beam type to check the accuracy of the clicker. I can't remember which socket size they use but they put a socket on one the regular way and put the other wrench in the bolt/nut end of the socket.

 

[glimmerman]

i bought 3 Armstrong torque wrenches. 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive. i looked at how low the manual was going and how high. i chose the 3 that fit into the ranges and had a small overlap. i went to msc and got cerified papers w/ them. sooner or later they'll need to be recalibrated. i found EVERYTHING on a harley has a torque spec. and i follow it after some not so swell results.

 

[fin_676]

It depends on what i am doing as to which torque wrench i use i have 2 beam torque wrenches and 4 clicker torque wrenches but then i have been collecting and using hand tools for a long time
If buying a click type torque wrench if you want one to do the small numbers it will not do the large ones so perhaps more than 1 is required to cover the different torque settings you may need
if you at some point remove the clutch hub nut or front pulley mega nut you will need a torque wrench that will work in both directions many of the clicker ones do not work with reverse threads

Brian

 

[R_W_B]

All excellent replies above.

If you can only afford one torque wrench right now buy the range of Ft. Lbs. you think you will need the most. DO NOT throw that old beam wrench away. You can use to check you new clickers. If I could use a beam wrench upside down or at an angle I would since it never needs calibrating and won't go bad as long as it reads zero sitting there.

But most applications do not lend themselves to being able to view the beam wrench well enough while using it hence the clickers. I have 4 torque wrenches (you will too over time). As previous posters said you can't survive with just one for all needs.

Do to my financial situation 2 of my wrenches are Harbor Freight wrenchs but they work. I know because I checked them when I bought them and I check them periodically to the reading on my beam wrench. I bought one H.F. wrench that was bad right off the bat and took it back and they gave me another which checked ok. These wrenches can and do provide a service for a very low price. I bought mine on sale there for $20. But CHECK them.

My favorite Torque wrench is a Sears I bought for $120 in the 20 ft lbs to 80 ft lbs range. It opperates like a cadillac compared to the stiffer mic turning H.F.s. Treat all your Torque wrenches with care. If you drop it, check it immediately since there is good chance you ruined it.

If you don't work in a professional shop then recalibration (at least in my area) is not an option. It cost as much or more than a new wrench. Good luck with your choice, a Torque wrench is a very importaint part of your tool collection and be proud of it whichever one you buy.

 

[Mongo1958]

I have an old cheap "bend the bar" torque wrench and I'm looking for a new one. With doing all this preventive stuff to my stead lately, I need something better. If I had to choose between inch lbs and foot lbs, which you you choose and why? I can find all the conversion charts on my iphone, but I just know one is used more than the other. Today while looking at a foot lb wrench, and I want the click type, they only go down to 10 foot lbs, but many of our applications call for less. So wadda ya think?

Stay away from the Sears electronic Torque wrenches. Mine started to display an "err" (error) fault. I don't know why. I did a google search to find out that this is a common issue. $200 clams out the window, not worth fixing. Man sakes alive.
I went on line to find a used conventional torque wrench at a good deal.
A new Kobalt (sold at lowes, made in Taiwan) has a lifetime warranty for about $95. I found a used Sears wrench for $50 on Craig’s list. Just picked it up today.

 

[Iceman24]

I own a Kobalt 3/8" drive ft/lb & Chraftsman 3/8" drive in/lb - both are pretty equal in quality & work quite well. Paid $60 for the Kobalt (w/military disc. @ Lowes) & $40 for the Chraftsman (family nite sale).

 

[Jack Klarich]

I own a Kobalt 3/8" drive ft/lb & Chraftsman 3/8" drive in/lb - both are pretty equal in quality & work quite well. Paid $60 for the Kobalt (w/military disc. @ Lowes) & $40 for the Chraftsman (family nite sale).

Kobalt is Snap On of Canada, Sunday all day @ Sears ALL tools will be on sale:s

 

[colnajoe]

Stay away from the Sears electronic Torque wrenches. Mine started to display an "err" (error) fault. I don't know why. I did a google search to find out that this is a common issue. $200 clams out the window, not worth fixing. Man sakes alive.
I went on line to find a used conventional torque wrench at a good deal.
A new Kobalt (sold at lowes, made in Taiwan) has a lifetime warranty for about $95. I found a used Sears wrench for $50 on Craig’s list. Just picked it up today.

Ok, I bought a craftsman 1/4 inch clicker, 10-220 in lb and a 10-200 ft lb, 1/2 inch clicker paid 50 bucks for both on Craigslist tonight. Both come with a case and I hope they arent screwed up.....buyer beware, I know

 

[Jack Klarich]

Ok, I bought a craftsman 1/4 inch clicker, 10-220 in lb and a 10-200 ft lb, 1/2 inch clicker paid 50 bucks for both on Craigslist tonight. Both come with a case and I hope they arent screwed up.....buyer beware, I know

Craftsman are pretty good to average wrenches, remember to back them down when not in use, i have a couple, I check them against my Snap ons and they are plus or minus a few pounds:s

 

[colnajoe]

Craftsman are pretty good to average wrenches, remember to back them down when not in use, i have a couple, I check them against my Snap ons and they are plus or minus a few pounds:s

Thanks for the advise, I've never used a clicker type before, I've just heard too many stories about how riders are either crackin bolts or parts by guessing torque by hand.